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We continued our course till the 29th, in the track '76Sof these islands, and being then ten degrees to the, .'une' r westward of their situation in the chart, without hav- Satutd. 29. ing seen any thing of them, I hauled to the northward, in order to cross the equinoxial, and afterwards shape my course for the Ladrone Islands, which, though a long run, I hoped to accomplish before 1 should be distressed for water, notwithstanding it now began to fall short. Our latitude, this day, was 8° 13' S. longitude 1 76° 20' E. and the variation was io° 10' E.
On Tuesday the 2d of July, we again faw many July, birds about the ship, and at four o'clock in the after- Tuesday *. t noon, discovered an island bearing north, and distant about six leagues: we stood for it till sun-let, when it was distant about four leagues, and then kept off and on for the night. In the morning, we found it a low wednes. 3.' slat island, of a most delightsul appearance and sull of wood, among which the cocoa-nut tree was very conspicuous: we saw, however, to our great regret, much foul ground about it, upon which the sea broke with a dreadsul surf. We steered along the south-west side of it, which we judged to be about four leagues in length, and soon perceived not only that it was inhabited, but very populous; for presently after the ship came in sight, we faw at least a thoufand of the natives assembled upon the beach, and in a very short time more than sixty canoes, or rather proas, put off from the shore, and made towards us. We lay by to receive them, and they were very soon ranged in a circle round us. These vessels were very neatly made, and so clean that they appeared to be quite new: none of them had sewer than three persons on board, nor any of them more than six. After these Indians had gazed at us some time, one of them suddenly jumped out of his proa, swam to the ship, and ran up the si'de like a cat: as soon as he had stepped over the gunwale, he fat down upon it, and burst into a violent fit of laughter, then started up, and ran all over the ship attempting to steal whatever he could lay his hands upon, but without success, for being stark naked, it was impossible to conceal his booty ior a moment. Our seamen jf put on him a jacket and trowsers, which produced great merriment, lor he had all the gestures of a
y*5 monkey newly dressed: we also gave him bread, . which he eat with a voracious appetite, and aster
having played a thousand antic tricks, he leaped overboard, jacket and trowsers and all, and swam back again to his proa; aster this several others swam to the ship, ran up the side to the gun-room ports, and having crept in, snatched up whatever lay in their reach, and immediately leaped again into the sea, and swam away at a great rate, though (ome of them, having both hands full, held up their arms quite out of the water, to prevent their plunder from being spoiled. These people are tall, well proportioned, and clean-limbed: their skin is a bright copper colour, their features are extremely good, and there i: a mixture of intrepidity and cheerfulness in their countenances that is very striking. They have long black hair, which some of them wore tied up behind in a great bunch, others in three knots: some of them had long beards, some only whiskers, and some nothing more than a small tuft at the point of the chin. They were all of them stark naked, except their ornaments, 'which consisted of shells, very prettily disposed and strung together, and were worn round their necks, wrists, and waists: all their ears were bored, but they had no ornaments in them when we saw them: such ornaments as they wear, when they wear any, are probably very heavy, for their ears hang down almost to their shoulders, and some of them were quite split through. One of these men, who appeared to be a person of some consequence, had a string of human teeth about his waist, which was probably a trophy of his military prowess, for he would not part with it in exchange for any thing that I could offer him. Some of them were unarmed, but others had one of the most dangerous weapons I had ever feen: it was a kind of spe3r, very broad at the end, and stuck full of shark's teeth, which are as sharp as a lancet, at the fides, for about three feet of its length. We shewed them some cocoa-nuts, and made signs that we wanted more; but instead of giving any intimation that they could supply us, thev endeavoured to take away thole we had.
I sent out the boats to sound aster we brought to off the island, and when they came back, they reported
that that there was ground at the depth of thirty fathom, 1765within two cables length of the shore; but as the bot- , torn was coral rock, and the soundings much too near the breakers for a ship to lie in fasety, I was obliged again to make fail, without procuring any refreshments for the sick. This island, to which my officers Byrpn's gave the name of Byron's Island, lies in latitude?slandi° 18' S; longitude 1730 46'E. the variation of the compass here, was one point E.
In our course from this place, we faw, for several days, abundance offish, but we could take only sharks, which were become a good dish even at my own table. Many of the people now began to fall down with fluxes, which the Surgeon imputed to the excessive heat, and almost perpetual rains.
By the 21st, all our cocoa-nuts being expended, our Sunday 21. people began to fall down again with the scurvy. The effect of these nuts alone, in checking this disease, is astonishing: many whose limbs were become as black as ink, who could not move without the assistance of two men, and who, besides total debility, suffered excruciating pain, were in a sew days, by eating these nuts, although at sea, so far recovered as to do their duty, and could even go aloft as well as they did before the distemper seized them. For several days, about this time, we had only faint breezes, with smooth water, so that we made but little way, and as we were flow not far from the Ladrone Islands, where we hoped some refreshments might be procured, we most ardently wished for a fresh gale, especially as the heat was still intolerable, the glass for a long time having never been lower than eighty-one, but often up to eighty-four; and I am of opinion that this is the hottest, the longest, and most dangerous run that ever was made.
On the 18th, we were in latitude 130 9' N. longitude 1580 50' E. and on the 22d, in latitude 140 25'N. Monday n longitude 1530 11' E. during which time we had a northerly current. Being now nearly in the latitude of Tinian, I shaped my course for that island.
The Arrival of the Dolphin and Tamar at Tinian, a Description of the present Condition of that Island, and an Account of the Transactions there.
Sond. 28. ^"\N the 28th, we faw a great number of birds Tues. 30. \J about the ship, which continued till the 30th, when about two o'clock in the afternoon we faw land, bearing W. f N. which proved to be the islands Saypan, Tinian, and Aiguigan. At sunset, the extremes of them bore from N. W. £ N. westward to S. W. and the three islands had the appearance of one. At seven, we hauled the wind, and stood off and on all Wedn. 31. night ; and at six the next morning the extremes of the islands, which still made in one, bore from N. W. by N. to S. W. by S. distant five leagues. The east side of these islands lies N. E. by N. and S. W. by S. Saypan is the northernmost; and from the north-east point of that island to the south-west point of Aiguigan the distance is about seventeen leagues. These three islands are between two and three leagues distant from each other; Saypan is the largest, and Aiguigan, which is high and round, the smallest. We steered along the east side of them, and at noon hauled round the south point of Tinian, between that island and Aiguigan, and anchored at the south-west end of it, in sixteen fathom water, with a bottom of hard fand and coral rock, opposite to a white fandy bay, about a mile and a quarter from the shore, and about three quarters of a mile from a reef of rocks that lies at a good distance from the shore, in the very spot where Lord Anson lay in the Centurion. The water at this place is so very clear that the bottom is -plainly to be seen at the depth of four and twenty fathom, which is no less than one hundred and fortyr four seet.
As soon as the ship was secured, I went on shore,
to fix upon a place where tents might be erected for
the sick, which were now very numerous ; not a
single man being wholly free from the scurvy, and
. 1 ,.; many many in the last stage of it. We found several huts 1765which had been left by the Spaniards and Indians the. ''uy" year before; for this year none of them had as yet been at the place, nor was it probable that they should come for some months, the sun being now almost vertical, and the rainy season set in. After I had fixed upon a spot for the tents, six or seven of us endeavoured to push through the woods, that we might come at the beautisul lawns and meadows of which there is so luxuriant a description in the account of Lord Anson's Voyage, and if possible kill some cattle. The trees stood so thick, and the place was so overgrown with underwood, that we could not see three yards before us, we therefore were obliged to keep continually hallooing to each other, to prevent our being separately lost in this trackless wilderness. As the weather was intolerably hot, we had nothing on besides our slices, except our shirts and trowsers, and these were in a very short time torn all to rags by the bushes and brambles; at last, however, with incredible difficulty and labour, we got through ; but, to our great surprise and difappointment, we found the country very different from the account we had read of it: the; lawns were entirely overgrown with a stubborn kind of reed or brulh, in many places higher than our heads, and no where lower than our middles, which continually entangled our legs, and cut us like whipcord; our stockings perhaps might have still suffered • more, but we wore none. During this march we were also covered with flies from head to foot, and whenever we offered to speak we were sure of having a mouthsul, many of which never failed to get down our throats. After we had walked about three or four miles, we got sight of a bull, which we killed, and a little before night got back to the beach, as wet as if we had been dipt in water, and so fatigued that we were scarcely able to stand. We immediately sent out a party to setch the bull, and found that during our excursion some tents had been got up, and the sick brought on shore.