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situation, to the southward of Saint Bartholomew's »76S Island, which convinced me that (he was not acquaint- 'ru,r>" ed with the channel.
At six o'clock the next morning, I weighed andTues-19. sailed between Elizabeth and Bartholomew Islands, with the wind at N. W. and aster steering S. S. W. five or six miles, we crossed a bank, where among the •weeds we had seven fathom water. This bank lies W. S. W. five or six miles from the middle of George's Island, and it is said in some former accounts, that in many places there is not three fathom water upon it : the danger here therefore is considerable, and to avoid it, it is necessary tokeepnear Elizabeth's Island till the western shore is but at a short distance, and then a southern course may be steered with great sasety, till the reef, which lies about four miles to the northward of Saint Anne's Point, is in sight. At noon this day, the north point of Fresh Water bay bore W. by N. and Saint Anne's Point S. by E £ E. The French ship still steered aster us, and we imagined that she was cither from Falkland's Islands, where the French had then a settlement, to get wood, or upon a survey of the Streight. The remaining part of this day, and the Wedn. to. next morning, we had variable wind with calms; in the asternoon therefore I hoisted out the boats, and towed round Saint Anne's Point into Port Famine : at six in the evening we anchored, and soon aster the French (hip passed by us to the southward.
Here we continued till Monday the 25th, when bothMondaya5. the Dolphin and Tamar having taken out of the storeship as much provisions as they could stow, I gave the Master of her orders to return to England as soon as he could get ready, and with the Tamar sailed from Port Famine, intending to push through the Streight before the season should be too far advanced. At noon, we were three leagues distant from Saint Anne's Point, which bore N. W. and three or four miles distant from Point Shutup, which bore S. S. W. Point Shutup bears from Saint Anne's Point S. £ E. by the compass, and they are about four or five leagues asunder. Between those two Points there is a slat shoal, which runs from Port Famine before Sedger river, and three or four miles to the southward.
Vol. I. E We
1765. We steered S. S. W. with little wind, along the
'ruary' shore from Point Shutup towards Cape Forward; and about three o'clock in the asternoon we passed by the French ship, which we saw in a little cove, about two leagues to the southward of Point Shutup. She had hauled her stern close into the woods, and we could fee large piles of the wood which she had cut down, lying on each side of her; so that I made no doubt of her having been sent out to procure that necessary for their new settlement, though I could not conceive why they should have come so far into the Streight for that purpose. After my return to England, I learnt that this vessel was the Eagle, commanded by M. Bougainville, and that her business in the Streight was, as I conjectured, to cut wood, for the French settlement in Falkland's Islands. From Cape Shutup to Cape Forward the course by the compass is S. W. by S. and the distance is seven leagues. At eight o'clock in the evening, Cape Forward bore N. W.£W. and was distant about a mile, and we brought to for the night. This part of the Streight is about eight miles over, and off the Cape we had forty fathom within half a cable's
Tues. a6. length of the shore. About four o'clock in the morning we made sail ; and at eight, having had light airs almost quite round the compass, Cape Forward bore N. E. by E. distant about four miles; and Cape Holland W. N. W. \ W. distant about five leagues. At ten we had fresh gales at W. N. W. and at intervals sud den squalls, so violent as to oblige us to clew all up every time they came on. We kept however working to windward, and looking out for an anchoring-place, endeavouring at the fame time to reach a bay about two leagues lo the westward of Cape Forward. At five o'clock I sent a boat with an officer into this bay to found, who finding it fit for our purpose, we entered it, and about six o'clock anchored in nine fathom : Cape Forward bore E. i S. distant five miles; a small island which lies in the middle of the bay, and is about a mile distant from the shore, W. by S. distant about half a mile; and a rivulet of fresh water N. W. by W. distant three quarters of a mile.
Wtdn. 87. At six o'clock the next morning, we weighed and
continued our course through the Streight: from
_ Cape Cape Holland to Cape Gallant, which are distant about '765eight leagues, the coast lies W. £ S. by the compass: ^"3 Cape Gallant is very high and steep, and between this and Cape Holland lies a reach about three leagues over, called English Reach. Above five miles south of Cape Gallant lies a large island, called Charles's Island, which it is necessary to keep to the northward of: we failed along the North shore of it, at about two miles distance, and sometimes much less. A little to the eastward of Cape Holland is a fair fandy bay, called Wood's Bay, in which there is good anchoring. The mountains on each side the Streight are, I think, higher, and of a more desolate appearance, than any other in the world ; except perhaps the Cordeliers, both being rude, craggy and steep, and covered with snow from the top to the bottom.
From Cape Gallant to Passage Point, which are distant about three leagues, the coast lies W.by N. by the compass. Passage Point is the east point of Elizabeth's bay, and is low land, with a rock lying off it. Between this and Cape Gallant there are several islands, some of them are very small: but the eastermost, which is Charles's Island, that has been just mentioned, is two leagues long; the next is called Monmouth's Island, and the westermost, Rupert's Island: Rupert's Island lies S. by E. of Point Passage. These islands make the Streight narrow; between Point Passage and Rupert's Island it is not more than two miles over, and it is necessary to go to the northward of them all, keeping the North shore on board: we failed within two cables length of it, and had no ground within forty fathom. At fix in the evening the wind shifted to the westward, upon which we stood in for Elizabeth's Bay, and anchored in ten fathom with very good ground; the best anchoring however is in thirteen fathom, for there was but three or four fathom about a cable's length within us. In this Bay there is a good rivulet of fresh water We found the flood here set very strong to the eastward ; and according to our calculation, it flows at the sull and change of the moon about twelve o'clock. We found the variation two points easterly.
E 2 At
At two o'clock in the asternoon of Thursday the 28th, the wind being between the N. W. and W. Thurs. *8- with fresh gales and squalls, we made the signal to weigh, and just as we had got the (hip over the anchor, a violent gust brought it home; the ship immediately drove into a shoal water, within two cables length of the shore, upon which we let go the small bower in four fathom, and had but three fathom under our stern: the stream anchor was carried out with all possible expedition, and by applying a purchase to the capstern, the ship was drawn towards it: we then heaved up both the bower anchors, slipt the stream cable, and with the gibb and stay-fails ran out into ten fathom, and anchored with the best bower exactly in the situation from which we had been driven. March. At five o'clock the next morning, the wind being Fnday i. northerly, and the weather moderate, we weighed ^"^"*^ again, and at seven passed Muscle Bay, which lies on the southern shore, about a league to the westward of Elizabeth's Bay. At eight, we were a-breast of Bachelor's River, which is on the north shore, about two leagues W. by N. from Elizabeth's Bay. At nine, we passed St. Jerom's Sound, the entrance of which is about a league from Bachelor's River: when St. Jerom's Sound was open, it bore N. W. We then steered W. S. W. by the compass for Cape Quod, which is three leagues distant from the southermost point os the Sound. Between Elizabeth's Bay, and Cape Quod, is a reach about four miles over, called Crooked Reach. At the entrance of Jerom's Sound, on the north side, we saw three or four fires, and, soon asterwards, perceived two or three canoes paddling aster us. At noon, Cape Quod bore W. S. W. IW. distant four or five miles, and soon aster, having light airs and calms, we drove to the eastward with the slood tide; in the mean time the canoes came up, and aster having paddled about us some time, one of them had the resolution to come on board. The canoe was of bark, very ill made, and the people on board, which were four men, two women, and a boy, were the poorest wretches I had ever seen. They were all naked, except a stinking seal skin that was thrown loofely over their shoulders; they were armed, however, with bows and arrows,
which they readily gave me in return for a few beads, »765, and other trisles. The arrows were made of a reed, and ^^ pointed with a green stone: they were about two feet long, and the bows were three feet; the cord of the bow was the dried gut of some animal. In the evening, we anchored a-breast of Bachelor's River, in fourteen fathom. The entrance of the River bore N. by E. distant one mile, and the northermost point of Saint Jerorh's Sound W. N. W. distant three miles. About three quarters of a mile eastward of Bachelor's River* is a shoal, upon which there is not more than fix feet water when the tide is out: it is distant about half a mile from the shore, and may be known by the weeds that are upon it. The tide slows here at the full and change of the moon, about one o'clock. Soon aster we were at anchor, several Indians came on board us, and I made them all presents of beads, ribands, and other trisles, with which they appeared to be greatly delighted. This visit I returned by going on shore among them, taking only a few people with me in my jolly boat, that I might not alarm them by numbers. They received us with great expressions of kindness, and to make us welcome, they brought us some berries which they had gathered for that purpose, and which, with a few muscles, seem to be a principal part, if not the whole of their subsistence.
At five o'clock, in the morning of the 2d, we weigh- Saturd. i. ed and towed with the tide, but at ten, having no wind, and finding that we drove again to the eastward, we anchored, with the stream anchor in fifteen fathom, upon a bank which lies about half a mile from the north shore: after veering about two-thirds of a cable, we had five and forty fathom along-side, and still deeper . water at a little distance. The south point of Saint Jerom's Sound bore N. N. E. distant two miles, and Cape Quod W. S. W. distant about eight miles. From the south point of Saint Jerom's Sound, to Cape Quod, is three leagues, in the direction of S. W. by W. The tides in this reach are exceedingly strong, ihough very irregular: We found them set to the eastward from nine o'clock in the morning till five o'clock the next morning, and the other four hours, from five to nine, they fet to the westward. At twelve o'clock at