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where I might get on board such wood and water as 1799.

January we wanted.

Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, however, being very desirous to go on shore, I sent a boat with them and their people, while I kept plying as near as possible with the ship.

Having been on shore four hours, they returned about nine in the evening, with above an hundred different plants and flowers, all of them wholly unknown to the botanists of Europe. They found the country about the bay to be in general fat, the bottom of it in particular was a plain, covered with grass, which might easily have been made into a large quantity of hay; they found also abundance of good wood and water, and fowl in great plenty. Among other things, of which Nature has been liberal in this place, is Winter's bark, Winteranea aromatica; which may easily be known by its broad leaf, shaped like the laurel, of a light green colour without, and inclining to blue within ; the bark is easily stripped with a bone or a stick, and its virtues are well known; it may be used for culinary purposes as a spice, and is not less pleasant than wholesome; here is also plenty of wild celery and scurvy grafs. The trees are chiefly of one kind, a species of the birch called Betula antarctica; the stem is from thirty to forty feet long, and from two to three feet in diameter, lo that in a case of necessity they might possibly supply a ship with top-mafts; they are a light white wood, bear a small leaf, and cleave very straight. Cranberries were also found here in great plenty, both white and red.

The persons who landed faw none of the inhabitants, but fell in with two of their deserted huts, one in a thick wood, and the other close by the beach. · Having taken the boat on board, I made fail into the Streight, and at three in the morning of the 15th I an-Sunday as chored in twelve fathoms and an halt, upon coral rocks, before a small cove, which we took for Port Maurice,

at the distance of about half a mile from the shore. - Two of the natives came down to the beach, expect

ing us to land ; but this spot afforded so little shelter, that I at length determined not to examine it: I under fail again about ten o'clock, and the savages retired into the woods..

, 1769. At two o'clock we anchored in the bay of Good January. Success : and after dinner I went on shore, accompa

nied by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, to look for a watering place and speak to the Indians, feveral of whom had come in sight. We landed on the starboard fide of the bay near some rocks, which made smooth water and good landing; thirty or forty of the Indians foon made their appearance at the end of a sandy beach on the other side of the bay ; but seeing our number, which was ten or twelve, they retreated. Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander then advanced about one hundred yards before us, upon which two of the Indians returned, and, having advanced some paces towards them, sat down; as soon as they came up, the Indians rose, and each of them having a small stick in his hand, threw it away, in a dire&tion both from themselves and the strangers, which was considered as the renunciation of weapons in token of peace ; they then walked briskly towards their companions, who had halted at about fifty yards behind them, and beckoned the gentlemen to follow, which they did. They were received with many uncouth signs of friendship ; and, in return, they distributed among them some beads and ribbons, which had been brought on shore for that purpose, and with which they were greatly delighted. A mutual confidence and good-will being thus produced, our parties joined; the conversation, such as it was, became general; and three of them accompanied us back to the ship. When they came on board, one of them, whom we took to be a priest, performed much the same ceremonies which M. Bougainville describes, and supposes to be an exorcism. When he was introduced into a new part of the ship, or when any thing that he had not seen before caught his attention, he shouted with all his force for some minutes, without directing his voice either to us or his companions.

They eat some bread and some beef, but not apparently with much pleasure, though such part of what was given them as they did not eat they took away with them ; but they would not swallow a drop either of wine or spirits: they put the glass ta their lips, but having tasted the liquor, they returned it,

Thipe took to be in M. Bougaben he

with strong expreslions of disgust. Curiosity seems to 1769. be one of the few passions which distinguish men from January brutes ; and of this our guests appeared to have very little. They went from one part of the ship to another, and looked at the vast variety of new objects that every moment presented themselves, without any expression either of wonder or pleasure, for the vociferation of our exorcist seemed to be neither.

After having been on board about two hours, they expressed a desire to go a-shore. A boat was immediately ordered, and Mr. Banks thought fit to accompa. ny them : he landed them in safety, and conducted them to their companions, among whom we remarked the same vacant indifference, as in those who had been on board; for as on one side there appeared no eagerness to relate, so on the other there seemed to be no curiosity to hear, how they had been received, or what they had seen. In about half an hour, Mr. Banks returned to the ship, and the Indians retired from the Thore.


An Account of what happened in ascending a Mountain

. to search for Plants. O N the 16th, early in the morning, Mr. Banks and Monday 16.

Dr. Solander, with their attendants and servants, and two seamen to assist in carrying the baggage, accompanied by Mr. Monkhouse the Surgeon, and Mr. Green the Astronomer, set out from the ship, with a view to penetrate as far as they could into the country, and return at night. The hills, when viewed at a distance, seemed to be partly wood, partly a plain, and above them a bare rock. Mr. Banks hoped to get through the wood, and made no doubt, but that, beyond it, he should, in a country which no botanist had ever yet visited, find alpine plants which would abundantly compensate his labour. They entered the wood at a small sandy beach, a little to the west ward of the watering-place, and continued to ascend the hill, through the pathless Vol. I.




with luddet days in been very favelling, i eravate the

wilderness, 'till three o'clock, before they got a near view of the places which they intended to visit. ' Soon after they reached what they had taken for a plain ; but, to their great disappointment found it a swamp, covered with low bushes of birch, about three feet high, interwoven with each other, and fo stubborn that they could not be bent out of the way ; it was therefore necessary to lift the leg over them, which at every step was buried ancle deep, in the foil. To aggravate the pain and difficulty of such travelling, the weather, which hitherto had been very fine, much like one of our bright days in May, became gloomy and cold ; with suddin blasts of a moft piercing wind, accompanied with snow. They pushed forward, however, in good spirits, notwithstanding their fatigue, hoping the worst of the way was past, and that the bare rock which they had seen from the tops of the lower hills, was not more than a mile before them ; but when they had got about two thirds over this woody swamp, Mr. Buchan, one of Mr. Banks's draughtmen, was unhap.. pily seized with a fit. This made it necessary for the whole company to halt, and it was impossible that he fhould go any farther, a fire was kindled, and those who were moft fatigued were left behind to take care of him. Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, Mr. Green, and Mr, Monkhouse went on, and in a short time reached the summit. As botanists, their expectations were here abundantly gratified; for they found a great variety of plants, which, with respect to the alpine plants in Europe, are exactly what those plants are with respect to such as grow in the plain.

The cold was now become more severe, and the frow-blasts more frequent; the day also was so far spent, that it was found impossible to get back to the ship before the next morning: to pass the night upon such a mountain, in such a climate, was not only comfortless, but dreadful; it was impossible however to be avoided, and they were to provide for it as well as they could.

Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, while they were improving an opportunity which they had, with so much danger and difficulty procured, by gathering the plants which they found upon the mountain, sent Mr. Green and


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Mr. Monkhouse back to Mr. Búchan and the people 1769.'.
that were with him, with directions to bring them to a January
hill, which they thought lay in a better route for return-
ing to the wood, and which was therefore appointed as
a general rendezvous. It was proposed, that from this
hill they should push through the swamp, which seem.
ed by the new route not to be more than half a mile over,
into the shelter of the wood, and there build their wig-
wam, and make a fire: this, as their way was all down
hill, it seemed easy to accomplish. Their whole com-
pany assembled at the rendezvous, and though pinched
with the cold, were in health and spirits, Mr. Buchan
himself having recovered his strength in a inuch greater
degree than could have been expected. It was now
near eight o'clock in the evening, but still good day-
light, and they set forward for the nearest valley, Mr.
Banks himself undertaking to bring up the rear, and
see that no ftraggler was left behind: this may perhaps
be thought a superfluous caution, but it will soon ap-
pear to be oiherwise. Dr. Solander, who had more
than once crossed the mountains which divide Sweden
from Norway, well knew that extreme cold, especially
when joined with fatigue, produces a torpor and sleepi -
ness that are almost irresistible : he therefore conjured
the company to keep moving, whatever pain it might
cost them, and whatever relief they might be promised
by an inclination to rest : Whoever fits down, says he,
will sleep; and whoever sleeps will wake no more.
Thus, at once admonished and alarmed, they set for-
ward: but while they were still upon the naked rock,
and before they had got among the bushes, the cold
became suddenly so intense, as to produce the effeas
that had been most dreaded. Dr. Solander himself wa's
the first who found the inclination, against which he
had warned others, irresistible ; and insisted upon be-
ing suffered to lie down. Mr. Banks intreated and rea'
monstrated in vain, down he lay upon theground, though
it was covered with snow; and it was with great diffi-
culty that his friend kept him from sleeping. Rich-
mond also, one of the black servants, began to linger,
having suffered from the cold in the same manner as the
Do&or. Mr. Banks, therefore, sent five of the com-
pany, among whom was Mr. Buchan, forward to get a
Dd 2


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