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the Narrow, it set strongly over to the north shore: , 1764.

December, it flows here, at the full and change of the moon, about ten o'clock. Between the first and the second Narrow the flood fets to the S. W. and the ebb to the N. E.after the west end of the second Narrow is passed, the course, with a leading wind, is S. by E. three leagues. Between the islands of Elizabeth and Saint Bartholomew, the channel is about half a mile over, and the water is deep: we found the food set very strongly to the southward, with a great rippling, but round the Islands the tides set

many
different

ways. In the morning of the 23d, we weighed with the Sund. 23. wind at S. by W. and worked between Elizabeth and Bartholomew's island: before the tide was spent, we got over upon the north shore, and anchored in ten fathom. Saint George's Island then bore N. E. by N. diftant three leagues; a point of land, which I called PORPoIS POINT, N. by W. diftant about five miles; and the southermost land S. by E. distant about two miles. In the evening, we weighed and steered S. by. E. about five miles along the north shore, at about one mile's distance, with regular foundings, from seven to thirteen fathom, and every where good ground. At ten o'clock at night, we anchored in thirteen fathom ; Sandy Point then bearing S. by E. diftant four miles ; Porpois Point W. N. W. three leagues; and Saint George's Island N. E. four leagues. All along this fore the flood sets to the southward ; at the full and change of the moon, it flows about eleven o'clock, and the water rises about fifteen feet. The next morning, I went out in

boat in search Mond. 24. of Fresh Water Bay ; I landed with my Second Lieutenant upon Sandy Point, and having sent the boat along the shore, we walked a-breast of her. Upon the Point we found plenty of wood, and very good water, and for four or five miles the shore was exceedingly pleafant. Over the Point there is a fine level country, with a foil that, to all appearance, is extremely rich; for the ground was covered with flowers of various kinds, that perfumed the air with their fragrance; and among them there were berries, almost innumerable, where the blossoms had been shed: we observed that the grass was very good, and that it was intermixed with a great

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2764. number of peas in blossom. Among this luxuriance of . December.

herbage we saw many hundreds of birds feeding, which, from their form, and the uncommon beauty of their plumage, we called painted geese. We walked more than twelve miles, and found great plenty of fine fresh water, but not the bay that we fought; for we saw no part of the shore, in all our walk from Sandy Point, where a boat could land without the utmost hazard, the water being every where shoal, and the fea breaking very high. We fell in with a great number of the huts or wigwams of the Indians, which appeared to have been very lately deserted, for in some of them the fires which they had kindled were scarcely extinguished; they were in little recesses of the woods, and always close to fresh water. In many places we fourid plenty of wild celery, and a variety of plants, which probably would be of great benefit to seamen after a long voyage.

In the evening, we walked back again, and found the ships at anchor in Sandy Point Bay, at the distance of about half a mile from the shore. The keen air of this place made our people fo voraciously hungry that they could have eaten three times their allowance ; I was therefore very glad to find some of them employed in hauling the feine, and others on shore with their guns: sixty very large mullets were just taken with the feine, as I came up; and the gunners had good sport, for the place abounded with geese, teale, snipes, and other birds, that were excellent' food.

On the 25th, Christmas day, we observed by two altitudes, and found the latitude of Sandy Point to be 53010' S. At eight in the morning, we weighed, and having failed five leagues from Sandy Point, in the direction of S. by E. į E. we anchored again in thirtytwo fathom, about a mile from the shore; the south point of Fresh Water Bay then bearing N. N. W. diftant about four miles; and the southermoft land S. E. by S. As we failed along the shore, at about two miles distance, we had no ground with fixty fathom ; but at the distance of one mile, we had from twenty to thirty-two fathom. At the full and change of the moon, the tide flows off Fresh Water Bay at twelve

o'clock;

nuel, 25.

o'clock; it runs but little, yet flows very much by the

1764.

December. shore.

On the 26th, at eight o'clock in the morning, we Wedn. 26. weighed with the wind at E. N. E. and steered S. S. E. for Port Famine. At noon, St. Anne's Point, which is the northermost point of that port, bore S. by E. E. diftant three leagues. Along this shore, at the distance of two or three miles, we had very deep water ; but within a mile had ground with twenty-five or thirty fathom. From St. Anne's Point a reef of rocks runs out S. E. by E. about two miles ; and at the distance of two cables length from this reef the water will suddenly shoal from sixty-five to thirty-five and twenty fathom. The Point itself is very steep, fo that there is no founding till it is approached very near, and great care must be taken in standing into Port Famine, elpecially if the ship is as far southward as Sedger river ; for the water will shoal at once from thirty to twenty, fifteen and twelve fathom; and at about two cables length farther in, at more than a mile from the shore, there is but nine feet water, when the ride is out. By hauling close round St. Anne's Point, soundings will soon be got; and as the water shoals very fast, it is not safe to

go farther in, when there is no more than seven fathom; the streight here is not more than four leagues wide.

'The next day at noon, having had little wind, and Thurf. 27. calms, we anchored in Port Famine, close to the shore, and found our situation very safe and convenient: we had shelter from all winds except the S. E. which seldom blows, and if a ship should be driven afhore in the bottom of the bay, she could receive no damage; for it is all fine soft ground. We found drift wood here sufficient to have furnished a thousand fail, so that we had no need to take the trouble of cutting green. The water of Sedger river is excellent, but the boats cannot get in till about two hours flood, because at low water it is very shallow for about three quarters of a mile. I went up it about four miles in my boat, and the fallen trees then rendered it impoflible to go farther: I found it indeed, noi only difficult but dangerous to get up thus far. The stream is very rapid, and many stumps of trees lie hidden under it: one of these

made

December.

an

1764. -made its way through the bottom of my boat, and in

instant she was full of water. We got on shore as well as we could ; and afterwards, with great difficulty, hauled her up upon the side of the river : here we contrived to stop the hole in her bottom, so as that we made a shift to get her down to the river's mouth, where she was soon properly repaired by the carpenter. On each side of this river there are the finest trees I ever saw, and I make no doubt but that they would supply the British navy with the best masts in the world. Some of them are of a great height, and more than eight feet in diameter, which is proportionably more than eight yards in circumference; so that four men, joining hand in hand, could not compass them : among others, we found the pepper tree, or winter's bark in great plenty. Among these woods, notwithstanding the coldness of the climate, there are innumerable parrots, and other birds of the most beautiful plumage. I shot every day geese and ducks enough to serve my own table and several others, and every body on board might have done the same: we had indeed great plenty of fresh provisions of all kinds ; for we caught as much fish every day as ferved the companies of both ships. As I was much on shore here, I tracked many wild beasts in the sand, but never saw one ; we also found many huts or wigwams, but never met with an Indian. The country between this Port and Cape Forward, which is diftant about four leagues, is extremely fine; the soil appears to be very good, and there are no less than three pretty large rivers, besides several brooks.

While we lay here, I went one day to Cape Forward, and when I set out I intended to have gone farther ; but the weather became so bad, with heavy rain, that we were glad to stop there, and make a great fire to dry our cloaths, which were wet through. From the place where we stopped, the Indians had been gone so lately, that the wood, which lay half burnt, where they had made their fire, was still warm; and soon after our fire was kindled, we perceived that another was kindled direly opposite to it, on the Terra del Fuego shore ; probably as a signal, which, if we had been Indians, we should have understood. After we

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were dried and refreshed at our fire, the rain having 1764.
abated, I walked cross the Cape, to see how the Streight
ran, which I found to be about W. N. W. The hills,
as far as I could see, were of an immense height,
very craggy, and covered with snow quite from
the funimit to the base. I made also another excur-
fion along the shore to the northward, and found
the country for many miles exceedingly pleasant, the
ground being, in many places, covered with flowers,
which were not inferior to those that are com-
monly found in our gardens, either in beauty or fra-
grance; and if it were not for the severity of the
cold in winter, this country might, in my opinion,
be made, by cultivation, one of the fineit in the world.
I had set up a small tent at the bottom of this bay,
close to a little rivulet, and just at the skirts of a wood,
soon after the ship came to an anchor, where three
men were employed in washing: they ilept on shore;
but, soon after sunset, were awakened out of their
first sleep by the roaring of some wild beasts, which
the darkness of the night, and the solitariness of their
situation in this pathless desart, rendered horrid beyond
imagination : the tone was hollow and deep, so that
the beasts, of whatever kind, were certainly large, and
the poor fellows perceived that they drew nearer and
nearer, as the sound every minute became more loud.
From this time sleep was renounced for the night, a
large fire was immediately kindled, and a constant blaze
kept up: this prevented the beasts from invading the
tents; but they continued to prowl round it at a little
distance, with incessant howlings, till the day broke,
and then, to the great comfort of the affrighted failors,
they disappeared. At this place, not far from where
the ship lay, there is a hill that has been cleared of
wood, and we supposed this to be the spot where
the Spaniards formerly had a settlement . * One
of the men, as he was passing over this hill, perceived
that, in a particular part, the ground returned the
sound of his foot, as if it was hollow: he therefore
* repassed it several times, and finding the effect still the

2

* See some account of this settlement in the Voyage of Captain Wallis, chap. iii. p. 224.

fame,

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