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wood and water, of which both ships were in great 1764Want, at the first convenient place I could find, espe- Decembercially at the season was advancing very fast, and we had no time to lose. From this time we continued to haul in for the land as the winds would permit, and kept a look-out for the islands of Sebald de Wert, which, by all the charts we had on board, could not be far from our track : a great number of birds were every day about the ship, and large whales were continually swimming by her. The weather in general was fine, but very cold, and we all agreed, notwithstanding the hope we had once formed, thatthe only disference between the middle of summer here, and the middle of winter in England, lies in the length of the days. Oh Saturday the 1 5th, being in latitude 500 33' S. Ion- Satard. 15. gitude 66° 59' W. we were overtaken about fix in the eveningby the hardest gile at S. W. that I was everin, with a sea still higher than any I had seen in going round Cape Horn with Lord Anson: I expected every moment that it would fill us, our ship being much too deep waisted for such a voyage: it would have been fasest to put before it under our bare poles, but our stock of fresh water was not sufficient, and I was afraid of being driven so far off the land as not to be able to recover it before the whole was exhausted; we therefore lay to under a balanced mizen, and shipped many heavy seas, though we found our skreen bulk-heads of infinite service.
The storm continued with unabated violence the whole night, but, about eight in the morning, began Sunday iG. to subside. At len, we made fail under our courses, and continued to steer for the land till Tuesday the 18 th, Tuesday ig. when, at four in the morning, we faw it from the masthead. Our latitude was now 5i°8' S. our longitude 710 4' W. and Cape Virgin Mary, the north entrance of the straight of Magellan, bore S. 190 50' W. distant nineteen leagues. As we had little or no wind, we could not get in with the land this day; the next-morn- wedn. igt ing, however, it being northerly, I stood into a deep bay, at the bottom of which there appeared to be a harbour, but I found it barred, the sea breaking quite from one side of it to the other ; and at low water I could perceive that it was rocky, and all dry: the water C 2 was
December. was A>°al at a g°°d distance from it, and I was Hi i^-v-^z fix fathom before I stood out again. In this place there seemed to be plenty offish, and we faw many porpoises swimming after them, that were as white as snow, with black spots, a very uncommon and beautiful fight. The land here has the lame appearance as about Port Desire, all downs, without a single tree.
Thursd. 20. At break of day, on the 20th, we were off Cape Fair-weather, which bore about West at the distance of four leagues, and we had here but thirteen fathom water, so that it appears necessary to give that Cape a good birth. From this place I ran close in snore to Cape Virgin Mary, but 1 found the coast to lie S. S. E. very different from Sir John Narborough's description, and a long spit of fand running to the southward of rhe Cape for above a league: in the evening I v/orked up close to this spit of fand, having seen many guanicoes seeding in the valleys as we went along, and a great smoke all the afternoon, about four or five leagues up the streight, upon the north shore. At this place I came to an anchor in fifteen fathom water, but the Tamar was so far to leeward, that she could not setch the anchoring ground, and therefore kept under way all night.
Friday n. The next morning, at day-break, I got again under fail, and seeing the fame smoke that I had observed the day before, I stood in for it, and anchored about two miles from the shore. 1 his is the place where the crew of the Wager, as they were passing the streight in their boat, after the loss of the vessel, taw a number of horsemen, who waved what appeared to be white handkerchiess, inviting them to come on shore, which they were very desirous to have done, but it blew so hard that they were obliged to stand out to sea. Bulkely, the dinner, of the Wager, who has published some account ot her voyage, fays, that they were in doubt whether these people were Europeans who had been shipwrecked upon the coast, or native inhabitants of the country about the river Gallagoes. Just as we came to an anchor, I faw with my glass exactly what was seen by the people in the Wager, a number of horsemen riding backward and forward, directly a-breast of the ship, and waving somewhat white, as an invitation
to us to come on shore. As I was very desirous 1?64to know what these people were, I ordered out my v.^y^j' twelve-oar'd boat, and went towards the beach, with Mr. Marshall, my second Lieutenant, and a party of men, very well armed; Mr. Cumming, my first Lieutenant, following in the six-oar'd cutter. When w* came within a little distance of the shore, we faw, as near as I can guess, about five hundred people, some on foot, but the greater part on horseback; they drew up upon a stoney spit, which rap a good way into the sea, and upon which it was very bad landing, for the water was shallow, and the stones very large. The people on shore kept waving and hallooing, which, as we understood, were invitations to land; I could not perceive that they had any weapons among them, however I made signs that they stiould retire to a little distance, with which they immediately complied; they continued to shout with great vociseration, and in a short time we landed, though not without great difficulty, most of the boat's crew being up to the middle in water. I drew up my people upon the beach, with my officers at their head, and gave orders that none of them should move from that station, till I should either call or beckon to them. I then went forward alone towards the Indiants; but perceiving that they retired as I advanced, I made signs that one of them should come near: as it happened, my signals were understood, and one of them, who afterwards appeared to be a Chief, came towards me; he was of a gigantic stature, and seemed to realize the tales of monsters in a human shape; he had the skin os some wild beast thrown over his shoulders, as a Scotch Highlander -wears his plaid, and was painted so as to make the most hideous appearance I ever beheld: round one eye was a large circle of white, a circle of black surrounded the ether, and the rest of his face was streaked with a paint of difserent colours ; I did not measure him, but if I may judge of his height by the proportion of his stature to my own, it could not be much less than seven seet. When this frightsul Colossus came up, we muttered somewhat to each other as a falutation, and I then walked with him towards his companions, to whom, as I advanced, I made signs that they should sit down,
i764- and they all readily complied: there were among them 'y — —.' many women, who seemed to be proportionally large, and sew of the men were less than the Chief who had come forward to meet me. I had heard their voices very loud at a distance, and when I came near, I perceived a good number of very old-men, who were chanting some unintelligible words in the most dolesul cadence I ever heard, with an air of serious solemnity, which inclined me to think that it was a religious ceremony: they were, all painted and cloathed nearly in the fame manner; the circles round thetwoeyes were in no instance of one colour, but they were not univerfally black and white, some being white and red, and some red and black; their teeth were as white as ivory, remarkably even and well set; but except the skins, which they wore with the hair inwards, most of them were naked, a sew only having upon their legs a kind of boot, with a short pointed stick fastened to each heel, which served as a spur. Having looked round upon these enormous goblins with' no small astonishment, and with some difficulty made those that were still galloping up sit down Vith the rest, I lookout a quantity of yellow and white beads, which I distributed among them, and which1 they received with very strong expressions of pleasure :-:I then took out a whole piece of green silk riband, and . giving the end of it into the hands of one of them, I made the person that fat next take hold of it, and so on as far as it would reach : all this while they fat very quietly, nor did any of those that held the riband attempt to pull it from the rest, though I perceived that they were still more delighted with itthan with thebeads. While the riband was thus extended, I took out a pair of scislars, and cut it between each two of the Indians that held it, so that I left about a yard in the possession of every one, which I afterwards tied about their heads,, where they sufsered it to remain without so much as touching it while I was with them. Their peaceable and orderly behaviour on this occasion certainly did them honour, espe^ cially as my presents could not extend to the whole company: neither impatience to share the new finery, nor curiosity to gain a nearer view of me and what I was doing, brought any one of them from the station
that I had allotted him. It would be very natural for r764those who have read Gay's Fables, if they form an idea u__tg>' of an Indian almost naked returning to his sellows in the woods adorned with European trinkets, to think of the monkey that had seen the world; yet before we despise their fondness for glass, beads, ribands, andother things, which among us are held in no estimation, we should consider that, in themselves, the ornaments of favage and civil lise are equal, and that those, who live nearly in a state of nature, have nothing that resembles glass, so much as glass resembles a diamond; the value which we set upon a diamond, therefore, is more capricious than the value which they set upon glass. The love of ornament seems to bean univerfal principle inhuman nature, and the splendid transparency of glass, and the regular sigure of a bead, are among the qualities that by the constitution of our nature excite pleasing ideas ; and although in one of these qualities the diamond excels glass, its value is much more than in proportion to the difference: the pleasure which it gives among us is, principally, by conserring distinction, and gratifying vanity, which is independent of natural taste, that is gratified by certain hue3 and figures, to which for that reason we give the name of beauty : it must be remembered also, that an Indian is more distinguished by a glass button or a bead, than any individual among us by a diamond, though perhaps the fame facrifice is not made to his vanity, as the possession of his finery is rather a testimony of his good fortune, than of his influence or power in consequence of his having what, as the common medium of all earthly possessions, is .supposed to conser virtual superiority, and intrinsic advantage.- The people, however, whom I had pow adorned, were not wholly strangers to European commodities; for upon a closer attention, I perceived among them one woman who-, had bracelets either of brass, or very pale gold, upoij Tf . her arms, and some beads of blue glass, strung upon two long queues of hair, which being parted at the top, hung down over each moulder before her : she was of a most enormous size, and her face was, if possible, more frightsully painted than the rest. I had a great desire to learn where she got her heads