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we founded every part of it with great care, as high as
'1764. a ship could go, and found that there is no danger but what may
be seen at low water; so that now fresh water is found, though at some distance from the beach, it would be a very convenient place for ships to touch at, if it were not for the rapidity of the tide. The country about the bay abounds with guanicoes, and a great variety of wild fowl, particularly ducks, geese, widgeon, and sea-pies, besides many others for which we have no name. Here is also such plenty of excellent muscles, that boat may be loaded with them every time it is low water. Wood indeed is scarce; however in some parts of this coast there are bushes, which in a case of necessity might produce a tolerable supply of fuel.
On Wednesday the 5th of December, I unmoored, Wednes. 4. in order to get out, but the best bower came up
foul, and before we could heave short upon the small bower, the tide of ebb made strong ; for at this place slack water scarcely continues ten minutes ; so that we were obliged to wait till it should be low water. Between five and fix in the evening, we weighed, and steered out E. N. E. with a fresh gale at N. N. W.
Course from Port Desire, in Search of Pepy's Island, and
afterwards to the Coast of Patagonia, with a Description of the Inhabitants.
S soon as we were out of the bay, we steered for
S. Our latitude was now 47° 22' S. longitude 650 49' W. Port Desire bore S. 66 W. distant twentythree leagues ; and Pepy's Island, according to Halley's Chart, E. N. distant thirty four leagues. The variation here was 19° E.
We continued our course the next day with a pleafant gale and fine weather, so that we began to think Thursd. 6. that this part of the world was not wholly without a summer. On the 7th, I found myself much farther VOL. I.
1764. to the northward than I expected, and therefore supe December
posed the ship’s way had been influenced by a current I had now made cighty degrees easting, which is the diftance from the main at which Pepy's Island is placed in Halley's chart, but unhappily we have no certain account of the place. The only person who pretends to have seen it, is Cowley, the account of whose voyage is now before me; and all he says of its situation is, that it lies in latitude 47 S. for he fays nothing of its longitude: he fays indeed that it has a fine harbour ; but he adds, that the wind blew so hard he could not get into it, and that he therefore stood away to the southward. At this time I also was steering fouthward ; for the weather being extremely fine, I could fee very far to the northward of the situation in which it is laid down. As I supposed it must lie to the eastward of us, if indeed it had any existence, I made the Tamar’s figual to spread early in the afternoon; and as the weather continued to be very elear, we could see, between
us, at least twenty leagues. We steered S. E. by the Saturday &. compass, and at night brought to, being by my ac
count in latitude 47° 18' S. The next morning it blew very hard at N. W. by N. and I ftill thought the island might lie to the eastward; I therefore intended to stand about thirty leagues that way, and if I found no island, to return into the latitude of 47 again. But a hard gale coming on, with a great sea, I brought
to about fix o'clock in the evening under the main-fail, Sunday 9. and at fix o'clock the next morning, the wind being at
W. S. W. we made fail again under our courses to the northward. I now judged myself to be about sixteen leagues to the catward of the track I had run before : Port Defire bore S. 89° 53' W. distant ninety-four leagues ; und in this situation I saw a great quantity of
rockweed, and many birds. We continued to stand to Monday 10. the northward the next day under our courses, with a
hard gale from S. W. to N. W. and a great sea. At night, being in latitude 460 50'S. I wore ship, and stood in to the westward again, our ships having spread
every day as far as they could be seen by each other : Tuefday!!.
and on the rith at noon, being now certain that there could be no such iiland as is mentioned by Cowley, and laid down by Halley under the name of Pepy's island, I resolved in stand in for the main, and take in wood and water, of which both ships were in great 1764. want, at the first convenient place I could find, espe- December. cially at the season was advancing very fast, and we had no time to lose. From this time we continued to haul in for the land as the winds would permit, and kept a look-out for the islands of Sebald de Wert, which, by all the charts we had on board, could not be far from our track : a great number of birds were every day about the ship, and large whales were continually swimming by her. The weather in general was fine, but very cold, and we all agreed, not withstanding the hope we had once formed, that the only difference between the middle of summer here, and the middle of winter in England, lies in the length of the days. On Saturday the 15th, being in latitude 50° 33' S. Ion- Saturd. 15. gitude 66° 59' W. we were overtaken about six in the evening by the hardest gile at S. W. that I was everin, with a sea still higher than any I had seen ingoing round Cape Horn with Lord Anson: I expected every moment that it would fill us, our ship being much too deep waisted for such a voyage : it would have been safest to put before it under our bare poles, but our stock of fresh water was not sufficient, and I was afraid of being driven so far off the land as not to be able to recover it before the whole was exhausted; we therefore lay to under a balanced mizen, and shipped many heavy seas, though we found our fkreen bulk-heads of infinite service.
The storm continued with unabated violence the whole night, but, about cight in the morning, began Sunday 16. to subside. At ien, we made fail under our courses, and continued to steer for the land till Tuesday the 18th, Tuesday 18. when, at four in the morning, we saw it from the masthead. Our latitude was now 51° 8' S. our longitude 710 4' W. and Cape Virgin Mary, the north entrance of the streight of Magellan, bore S. 19° 50' W.distant nineteen leagues. As we had little or no wind, we could not get in with the land this day, the next-morn-Wedn. 196 ing, however, it being northerly, I stood into a deep bay, at the bottom of which there appeared to be a harbour, but I found it barred, the sea breaking quite from one side of it to the other ; and at low water I could perceive that it was rocky, and all dry: the water
was shoal at a good distance from it, and I was in fix fathom before I stood out again. In this place there feemed to be plenty of fish, and we saw many porpoises swimming after them, that were as white as inow, with black spots, a very uncommon and beautiful fight. The land here has the same appearance as about
Port Desire, all downs, without a single tree. Thursd. 20.
At break of day, on the 20th, we were off Cape Fair-weather, which bore about West at the distance of four leagues, and we had here but thirteen fathom water, so that it appears necessary to give that Cape a good birth. From this place I ran close in thore to Cape Virgin Mary, but I found the coast to lie S. S. E. very different from Sir John Nasborough's description, and a long spit of fand running to the southward of the Cape for above a league : in the evening I worked up clofe to this spit of fand, having seen many guanicoes feeding in the valleys as we went along, and a great smoke all the afternoon, about four or five leagues up the streight, upon the north fhore. At this place I came to an anchor in fifteen fathom water, but the Tamar was so far to leeward, that she could not fetch the anchoring ground, and therefore kept under way all
night. Friday 21. The next morning, at day-break, I got again under
fail, and seeing the same smoke that I had observed the day before, I stood in for it, and anchored about two miles from the shore. This is the place where the crew of the Wager, as they were passing the streight in their boat, after the loss of the vessel, faw a number of horsemen, who waved what appeared to be white handkerchiefs, inviting them to come on shore, which they were very desirous to have done, but it blew so hard i hat they were obliged to stand out to sea. Bulkely, the Gunner, of the Wager, who has published some account of her voyage, says, that they were in doubt whether these people were Europeans who had been Mipwrecked upon the coast, or native inhabitants of the country about the river Gallagoes. Just as we came to an anchor, I saw with my glass exactly what was seen by the people in the Wager, a number of horsemen riding backward and forward, directly a-breast of the ship, and waving fomewhat white, as an invitation
to us to come
As I was very desirous 1764.
December. to know what these people were, I ordered out my twelve-oar'd boat, and went towards the beach, with Mr. Marshall, my second Lieutenant, and a party of men, very well armed; Mr. Cumming, my first Lieutenant, following in the fix-oar'd cutter. When we came within a little distance of the shore, we saw, as near as I can guess, about five hundred people, some on foot, but the greater part on horseback; they drew up upon a stoney spit, which ran a good way into the sea, and upon which it was very bad landing, for the water was shallow, and the stones very large. The people on shore kept waving and hallooing, which, as we understood, were invitations to land ; I could not perceive that they had any weapons among them, however I made signs that they should retire to a little distance, with which they immediately complied; they continued to shout with great vociferation, and in a short time we landed, though not without great difficulty, most of the boat's crew being up to the middle in water. I drew up my people upon the beach, with my officers at their head, and gave orders that none of them should move from that station, till I should either call or beckon to them.
I then went forward alone towards the Indiants ; but perceiving that they retired as I advanced, I made signs that one of them should come near : as it happened, my signals were understood, and one of them, who afterwards appeared to be a Chief, came towards me; he was of a gigantic stature, and seemed to realize the tales of monsters in a human shape ; he had the skin of some wild beast thrown over his shoulders, as a Scotch Highlander wears his plaid, and was painted so as to make the most hideous appearance I ever beheld: round one eye was a large circle of white, a circle of black furrounded the other, and the reft of his face was ftreaked with a paint of different colours ; I did not measure him, but if I may judge of his height by the proportion of his stature to my own, it could not be much less than seven feet. When this frightful Colossus canie up, we muttered somewhat to each other as a salutation, and I then walked with him towards his companions, to whom, as I advanced, I made signs that they should fit downa,