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S. & W. to N. W. by W. We continued our course 1767. along the shore, sometimes at the distance of half a
June. mile, and sometimes at the distance of four or five miles, but hitherto had got no soundings. At fix o'clock in the evening, we were a-breast of a fine river, and the coast having a better appearance here than in any other part that we had seen, I determined to stand off and on all night, and try for anchorage in the morning. As soon as it was dark, we saw a great number of lights all along the shore. At day-break we Satur. 22. sent out the boats to sound, and soon after they made the signal for twenty fathom. This produced an universal joy, which it is not easy to describe, and we immediately ran in, and came to an anchor in 17 fathom, with a clear sandy bottom. · We lay about a mile distant from the shore, opposite to a fine run of water; the extreams of the land bearing from E. S. E. to N. W. by W. As soon as we had secured the ship, I sent the boats to sound along the coast, and look at the place where we saw the water. At this time a considerable number of canoes came off to the ship, and brought with them hogs, fowls, and fruit in great plenty, which we purchased for trinkets and nails. But when the boats made towards the shore, the canoes, moft · of which were double, and very large, failed after them. At first they kept at a distance, but as the boats approached the shore, they grew bolder, and at last three of the largest ran at the cutter, staved in her quarter, and carried away her outrigger, the Indians preparing at the same time to board her, with their clubs and paddles in their hands. Our people being thus pressed, were obliged to fire, by which one of the assailants was killed, and the other much wounded. Upon receiving the shot, they both fell overboard, and all the people who were in the same canoe, instantly leaped into the sea after them; the other two canoes dropped a-ftern, and our boats went on without any farther interruption. As soon as the Indians, who were in the water, saw that the boats stood on without attempting to do them any farther hurt,they recovered their canoe, and hauled in their wounded companions. They set them both upon their feet to see if they could stand, and finding they could not, they tried whether they
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1767. could sit upright : one of them could, and him they
supported in that posture, but perceiving that the other was quite dead, they laid the body along at the bottom of the canoe. After this, some of the canoes went alhore, and others returned again to the ship to traffic, which is a proof that our conduct had convinced them that while they behaved peaceably they had nothing to fear, and that they were conscious they had brought the mischief which had just happened upon themselves.
The boats continued sounding till noon, when they returned with an account that the ground was very clear ; that it was at the depth of five fathom, within a quarter of a mile of the shore, but that there was a very great surf where we had seen the water. The officers told me that the inhabitants swarmed upon the beach, and that many of them swam off to the boat with fruit, and bamboos filled with water. They said that they were very importunate with them to come on shore, particularly the women, who came down to the beach, and stripping themselves naked, endeavoured to allure them by many wanton gestures, the meaning of which could not possibly be mistaken. At this time, however, our people resisted the temptation.
In the afternoon, I sent the boats again to the shore, with some barecas or small casks, which are filled at the head, and have a handle by which they are carried, to endeavour to procure some water, of which we began to be in great want. In the mean time, many of the canoes continued about the ship, but the Indians had been guilty of so many thefts, that I would not suffer any more of them to come on board.
At five in the evening, the boats returned with only two barecas of water, which the natives had filled for them; and as a compensation for their trouble, they thought fit to detain all the rest. Our people, who did not leave their boat, tried every expedient they could think of to induce the Indians to return their water vessels, but without success; and the Indians, in their turn, were very pressing for our people to come on shore, which they thought it prudent to decline. There were many thousands of the inhabitants of both
es came to thekely to gain and such more again!
sexes, and a great number of children on the beach, 1767.
Jụne. when our boats came away.
The next morning, I sent the boats on shore again Mond. 22. for water, with nails, hatchets, and such other things as I thought most likely to gain the friendship of the inhabitants. In the mean time, a great number of canoes came off to the ship, with bread-fruit *, plantains, a fruit resembling an apple only better, fowls, and hogs, which we purchased with beads, nails, knives, and other articles of the like kind, so that we procured pork enough to serve the ship's company two days, at a pound a man.
When the boats returned, they brought us only a few calabashes of water ; for the number of people on the beach was so great, that they would not venture to land, tho' the young women repeated the allurements which they had practised the day before, with still more wanton, and, if possible, less equivocal gestures. Fruit and provisions of various kinds were brought down and ranged upon the beach, of which our people were also invited to partake, as an additional inducement for them to leave the boat. They continued, however, inexorable, and shewing the Indians the barecas on board, made figns that they should bring down those which had been detained the day before : to this the Indians were inexorable in their turn, and our people therefore weighed their grapplings, and founded all round the place, to see whether the ship could come in near enough to cover the waterers, in which case they might venture on fhore, in defiance of the whole island. When they put off, the women pelted them with apples and banacas, shouting and Thewing every mark of derision and contempt that they could devise. They reported, that the ship might ride in four fathom water, with sandy ground, at two cables length from the shore, and in five fathom water at three cables length. The wind here blew righ: along the shore, raising a great surf on the side of the vessel, and on the beach.
At day break, the next morning, we weighed, with Tuer. 23. a design to anchor off the watering place. As we were VOL. I.
standing * See a description of this fruit in che Account of the Voyage of the Endeavour.
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1767. standing off, to get farther to windward, we discovered
wa bay about fix or eight miles to leeward, over the
land, from the mast head, and immediately bore away for it, sending the boats a-head to sound. At nine o'clock, the boats making the signal for 12 fathom, we hauled round a reef, and stood in, with a design to come to an anchor ; but when we came near the boats, one of which was on each bow, the ship struck. Her head continued immoveable, but her stern was
free; and, upon casting the lead, we found the depth ..1 of water, upon the reef or shoal, to be from 17 fathom
to two and a half : we clewed all up as fast as poflible, and cleared the ship of what lumber there happened to be upon the deck, at the same time getting out the long-boat, with the stream and kedge anchors, the stream cable and hauser, in order to carry them without the reef, that when they had taken ground, the ship might be drawn off towards them, by apply. ing a great force to the capltern, but unhappily without the reef we had no bottom. Our condition was now very 'alarming, the ship continued beating against the rock with great force, and we were surrounded by many hundred canoes, full of men : they did not, however, attempt to come on board us, but seemed to wait in expectation of our shipwreck. In the anxiety and terror of such a situation we continued near an hour, without being able to do any thing for our deliverance, except ftaving some water casks in the forehold, when a breeze happily springing up from the shore, the ship's head swung off. We immediately pressed her with all the sail we could make; upon which she began to move, and was very soon once more in deep water.
We now stood off, and the boats being sent to leeward, found that the reef ran down to the westward about a mile and a half, and that beyond it there was a very good harbour. The master, after having placed a boat at the end of the reef, and furnished the long-boat with anchors and hausers, and a guard to defend her from an attack of the Indians, came on board, and piloted the ship round the reef into the harbour, where, about tvelse o'clock, she came to an
of fich of our nhi board they did nunded by
anchor in 17 fathom water, with a fine bottom of 3767.
June. black sand.
The place where the ship struck appeared, upon farther examination, to be a reef of sharp coral rock, with very unequal foundings, from six fathom to two; and it happened unfortunately to lie between thetwo boats that were placed as a direction to the ship, the weathermost boat having 12 fathom, and the leewardmost nine. The wind freshened almost as soon as we got off, and though it soon became calm again, the surf ran fo high, and broke with such violence upon the rock, that if the ship had continued fast half an hour longer, she must inevitably have been beaten to pieces. Upon examining her bottom, we could not discover that she had received any damage, except that a small piece was beaten off the bottom of the rudder. She did not appear to admit any water, but the trussletrees, at the head of all the masts, were broken short, which we supposed to have happened while she was beating against the rock. Our boats lost their grapplings upon the reef, but as we had reason to hope that the ship was found; they gave us very little concern. As soon as the ship was fecured, I sent the mafter, with all the boats manned and armed to found the upper part of the bay, that if he found good anchorage' we might warp the ship up within the reef, and anchor her in fafety. The weather was now very pleasant, a great number of canoes were upon the reef, and the shore was crowded with people.
About four in the afternoon the Mafter returned,and reported that there was every where good anchorage; I therefore determined to warp the ship up the bay early in the morning, and in the mean time, I put the people at four watches, one watch to be always under arms, loaded and primed all the guns, fixed musquetoons in all the boats, and ordered all the people who were not upon the watch, to repair to the quarters assigned them, at a moment's warning, there being a great number of canoes, some of them very large, and full of men, hovering upon the shore, and many fmaller venturing to the ship, with hogs, fowls, and fruit, which we purchased of them, much to th