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On Monday the 30th, we had the first interval of '767moderate weather, and we improved it in drying the .__. fails, which, though much mildewed, we had not before been able to loose, for sear of setting the ship adrift: we also aired the spare fails, which we found much injured by the rats, and employed the fail-makers to mend them. Capt. Ca-rteret having repretentedtbat his fire-place, as w-ell as ours, had been broken to pieces, our armourers made him also a new back, and set it up with lime that we made upon the spot, in the fame manner as had been done on board our own ship. This day we saw several canoes, sull of Indians, put to shore on the east fide of the bay, and the next, morn- Tueffl. v. ing several of them came on board, and proved to be she fame that our people, who were out in the boat, had met with on shore. They behaved very peaceably, and we dismissed them with a sew toys, as usual.
The day following, several other Indians came off ApriL to the ship, and brought with them some of the birds Wedaes- '. called Race-horses. Our people purchased the birds for a sew .trifles, and I made them a present of several hatchets and knives.
On Thursday the second of April the master of theThurs. z. Swallow, who had heen sent out to seek for anchoring places, returned, and reported that he had found three on the north shore, which were very good; one about four miles to the eastward of Cape Providence, another under the east side of Cape Tamer, and the third about four miles to the eastward of it; but he faid that he found no place to anchor in under Cape Providence, the ground being rocky.
This day two canoes came on board, with four men and three young children in each. The men were somewhat more decently dressed than those that we had seen before, but the children were stark naked. They were somewhat fairer than the mea, who seemed to pay a very tender attention to them, especially in lifting them in and out of the canoes. To these young visitors I gave necklaces and bracelets, with which they seemed mightily pleased. It happened that while some of these people were on board, and the rest waiting in their'canoes by the ship's side, the boat was sent on L 3 shore
1767- shore for wood and water. The Indians, who were . fr1_' , in the canoes, kept their eyes fixed upon the boat while ,_ (he was manning, and the moment she put off from the ship, they called out with great vociferation to those that were on board, who seemed to be much alarmed, and hastily handing down the children, leaped into their canoes, without uttering a word. None of us could guess at the cause of this sudden emotion, but we saw the men in the canoes pull aster the boat with all their might, hallooing and shouting with great appearance of perturbation and distress. The boat outrowed them, and when she came near the shore, the people on board discovered some women gathering muscles among the rocks. This at once explained the mystery; the poor Indians were asraid that the strangers, either by force or favour, should violate the prerogative of a husband, of which they seemed to be more jealous than the natives of some other countries, who in their appearance are less savage and sordid. Our people, to make them easy, immediately lay upon their oars, and suffered the canoes to pass them. The Indians, however, still continued to call out to their women, till they took the alarm and ran out of sight, and as soon as they got to land, drew their canoes upon the beach, and followed them with the utmost expedition. Sund. 5. We continued daily to gather muscles till the 5th,
when several of the people being seized with sluxes, the surgeon desired that no more muscles might be brought into the ship. Friday 10. The weather being still tempestuous and unsettled, we remained at anchor till 10 o'clock in the morning of Friday the 10th, and then, in company with the Swallow, we made sail. At noon, Cape Providence bore N. N. W. distant four or five miles; at four in the asternoon Cape Tamer bore N. W. by W. i W. distant three leagues, Cape Upright E. S. E. 1 S. distant three leagues, and Cape Pillar W. distant 10 leagues, Satur. 11. We steered about W. £ N. all night, and at six o'clock in the morning, had run eight and thirty miles by the log. At this time Cape Pillar bore S. W. distant half a-mile, and the Swallow was about three miles a-stern of us. At this time there being but little wind, we
were obliged to make all the fail we could, to get '76.7without the Streight's mouth. At 11 o'clock I would L f" ' _, have shortened fail for the Swallow, but it was not in my power, for as a current set us strongly down upon the Isles of Direction, and the wind came to the west, it became absolutely necesfary forme to carry fail, that I might clear them. Soon after we lost sight of the Swallow and never faw her afterwards. At first I was inclined to have gone back into the Streight, but a fog coming on, and the sea rising very fast, we were all of opinion that it was indispenfably necesfary to get an offing as soon as possible; for except we pressed the ship with fail, before the sea rose too high, it would be impracticable either to weather Terra del Fuego on one tack, or Cape Victory on the other. At noon, the Islands of Direction bore N. 21' W. distant three leagues, Saint Paul's cupola and Cape Victory in one, N. distant seven leagues, and Cape Pillar E. distant fix leagues.
Our latitude, by observation was 520 38' and we -computed our longitude to be j6° W.
Thus we quitted a dreary and inhospitable region, where we-were in almost perpetual danger of shipwreck for near four months, having entered the Streight on the 17th of December 1766, and quitted it on the 1 ith of April 1767; a region where, in the midst of Summer, the weather was cold, gloomy, and tempestuous, where the prospects had more the appearance of a .chaos than of Nature, and where, for the most part, the vallies were without herbage, and the hills without wood.
A partitular A count of the places in which we anchored during our passage through the streight, and of the Shoals and Rocks that lie near them.
HAVING cleared the Streight, we steered a western course. But before I continue the narrative of our voyage, I shall give a more particular account of the several places, where we anchored, plans of which L 4 are are deposited in the Admiralty Office for the use of suture navigators, with the shoals and rocks that lie near them, the latitude, longitude, tides, and variation of the compass. *
I. CAPE VIRGIN MARY. The bay under this Cape is a good harbour, when the wind is westerly. There is a shoal lying off the Cape, but that may easily be known by the rock weed that grows upon it: the Cape is a sleep white cliff, not unlike the South Foreland. Its latitude, by observation, is 5 2° 24' S. and its longitude, by account, 68° 22' W. The variation of the needle, by the medium of five azimuths and one amplitude, was 240 30' E. In this place we faw no appearance either of wood or water. We anchored in 10 fathom, with coarse fandy ground, about a mile from the shore, Cape Virgin Mary bearing N. by W. f W. distant about two miles, and Dungeness Point S. S. W. distant four miles. We anchored here on the 17 th of December, and failed the next day. There is good landing, on a fine fandy beach, all along the shore.
II. POSSESSION BAY. In failing into this bay, it is necessary to give the point a good birth, because there is a reef runs right off it about a short mile. The soundings are very irregular all over the bay, but the ground is every where a fine soft mud and clay, so that the cables can come to no damage. The Point lies in latitude 520 degrees 23' S. longitude, by account 68° 57' W. the variation is two points easterly. In the bay the tide rises and falls between four and five fathom, and runs at the rate of about a mile an hour; in the mid-channel without the bay, it runs nearly three miles an hour. In this place we faw no appearance either of wood or water. The landing appeared to be good, but we did not go on shore. We anchored here on the 19th of December, and failed again on the 22d.
III. PORT FAMINE. At this place the Spaniards, in the year 1581, built a town which they called Philippeville, and left in it a colony, consisting of 400 persons. When our celebrated navigator, Cavendish, arrived here in 1587, he found one of these unhappy wretches, the only one that remained, upon the beach:
they they had all perished for want qf subsistence, except twenty-sour ; twenty-three of these set out for the river Plata, and were never afterwards heard of. This man whose name was Hernando, was brought to England by Cavendish, who called the place where he had taken him up, Port Famine. It is a very fine bay, in which there is room and conveniency for many ships to moor in great fasety. We moored in nine fathom, having brought Cape St. Anne N. E. by E. and Sedger River S. -J-W. which perhaps is the best situation, though the whole bay is good ground. In this place there is very good wooding and watering: we caught many fine small fish with a hook and line off the ship's side, and hauled the seine with great success, in a fine fandy bay, a little to the southward of Sedger River: we also shot a great number of birds, of various kinds, particularly geese, ducks, teal, snipes, plover and race-horses, and we found wild celery in great plenty. The latitude of this place is 530 42' S. longitude, by observation, 710 2&' W. the variationis two points easterly. We anchored here the 27th of December 1766, and failed again the 18 th of January 1767.
IV. CAPE HOLLAND BAY. There is no danger in failing into this bay, and there is good anchoring ground in every part of it. We lay at about three cables length from the shore, in ten fathom, the ground coarse fand and shells, Cape Holland bearing W. S. W. 4 W. distant three miles, Cape Froward a little to the N. of the E. Right abreast of the ship there was a very fine rivulet, and close under Cape Holland a large river, navigable for boats many miles: the shore also affords fire-wood in great plenty. We found abundance of wild celery and cranberries, muscles and limpets, but caught very little fish, either with hook and line, or the seine. We killed some geese, ducks, teal, and race-horses, but they were not plenty. This bay lies in latitude 530 57' S. longitude, by account, 720 34' W. the variation is twopoints easterly. The water rose about eight seet; we found, however, no regular tide, but for the most part a strong current setting to the eastward.-..We'anchored