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though the rest of the ship's company were in good N'^e4^b, health. Our latitude was 45° 21' S, longitude 630 L ___, j 2' W. the variation 19° 41' p.
The next day I shaped my course by the chart in Frid. 16. the account of Lord Anson's voyage, for Cape Blanco. In the evening it blew extremely hard at S. W. by S. so that we brought to for the night under our mainfail. In the morning we made fail again, but we had Satun '7' a great sea; and although it was now almost midsummer in these parts, the weather was, in every respect, much worse than it is in the Bay of Biscay at the depth of winter. About six in the evening, having carried all the sail I could, we made land, bearing about S. S. W. which, as we had good observation of the sun, we knew to be Cape Blanco; but it now began to blow with more violence then ever, and the storm continued all night, with a sea that was continually breaking over us, so that the ship laboured very much. At four in the morning, we sounded and had forty Sund. 18, fathom, with rocky ground; having stood off in the night, we now wore and stood in again, the storm still' continued with hail and snow: and about six o'clock we faw the land again, bearing S. W, by W. The ship was now so light, that, in a gale of wind she drove bodily tp leeward; so that I was very solicitous to get into Port Desire, that I might put her hold in order, and take in sufficient ballast, to avoid the danger of being caught upon alee shore in her present trim. We steered in for the land with the wind at N. E. and in the evening brought to; but the wind coming to the Mond. 19. westward, we were driven off in the night. At seven the next morning, we stood in again, steering S. W. by S. by the compass, and soon perceived the sea to break right a-head of us; we immediately sounded, and shoaled pur water from thirteen to seven fathom, soon after deepening it again from seventeen to fortytwo; so that we went over the end of a shoal, which a little farther to the northward might have been fatal to vis. Cape Blanco at this time bore W. S. W. £ S. distant four leagues: but we were still at a loss for Port Desire, it being impossible that any description should be more consused than that which Sir John Narbo-. rough has given of this harbour. I stood into a bay to
,764- the southward of the Cape, as he directs, but could ^y-v-O find no such place; I therefore stood along the shore to the southward, the wind blowing off the land very hard, and saw several large columns of smoke rising in many places, but no tree or bush, the country resembling in appearance the barren downs of England. We observed also that the water was frequently very shallow at the distance of seven or eight miles from the shore, . for we had many times not more than ten fathom. We continued to stand along the shore all day as near as possible, and in the evening we saw an Island •sues. ao. at the distance of about six leagues; in the morning we stood in for it, and found that it corresponded with Narborough's description of Penguin Island. As Port Desire is said to lie about three leagues north west of this Island, I sent the boat to look for it, and when file returned, having found it, I stood in for the land. There were thousands of seals and penguins about the ship, and near Penguin island several smaller islands, or rather rocks. In the evening, we saw a remarkable rock, rising from the water like a steeple, on the south side of the entrance of Port Desire; this rock is an excellent mark to know the harbour, which it would otherwise be difficult to find. At night, there being little wind, we anchored at the distance of sour or five y.ei- ??• miles from the shore ; and in the morning, with a breeze from the land, we turned up the harbour's mouth; we found it very narrow, with many rocks and shoals about it, and the most rapid tide I had ever known. I came to an anchor off the harbour in nine fathom, the entrance of the river being open, and bearing W. S W. Penguin island S. E. i E. distant about three leagues; the Steeple rock S. W. by W. the northermost land N. N. W. and two rocks, which are covered at half tide, and lie at the southermost extremity of a reef which runs from the fame land, N. E. by N. I mention all these bearings particularly, because I think it may be of importance to future navigators, especially as the descriptions that have been given of this place, by the tew who have already visited it, are extremely defective. The wind blew very hard the greater part of this day, and there ran an ugly sea -^ where we were stationed, yet I ordered out two boats
to found the harbour, and attended in my own boat »764myself. We found it very narrow for near two miles, "°''em \ with a tide running at the rate ofeight miles an hour: we found also many rocks and shoals, but all the danr ger shows itself above water. When we came to the shore, I landed, and walked a little way into the country, which as far as 1 could fee was all downs, without a single tree or shrub. We saw the dung of many beasts, and had a glimpse of four, which ran away as soon as we came in sight, so that we could not certainly determine what they were; but we believed them to be guanicoes, many of which we asterwards saw come down to the water side; they resemble our deer, but are much larger, the height of some being not less than thirteen hands; they are very shy, and very swift. After I returned to my boat, I went farther up the harbour, and landed upon an island that was covered with seals, of which we killed above fifty, and among them many that were larger than a bullock, having before half loaded our boat with different kinds of birds, of which, and seals, there are enough to supply the navy of England. Among the birds one was very remarkable: the head resembled that of an eagle, except that it had a large comb upon it; round the neck there was a white ruff, exactly resembling a lady's tippet, the feathers on the back were as black as jet, and as bright as the finest polish could render that mineral: the legs were remarkably strong and large, the talons were like those of an eagle, except that they were not so sharp, and the wings, when they were extended, measured, from point to point, no less than twelve feet.
The Tamar worked into the harbour with the tide of slood, but I kept my station with the Dolphin till I should have a leading wind; and the wind shifting to the eastward, I weighed about five o'clock in the asternoon, intending to go up with the evening slood: before I could get under sail, however, the wind shifted again to N. W. by N. and it being low water, the ship lying but just within the harbour, and there being no tide to assist us, we were obliged to anchor near the south shore. The wind came off the land in very hard flaws, and in a short time, our anchor coming home,
1764- the ship tailed on shore against a steep gravelly beach.
\_ -^ '_l The anchoring ground indeed as far as we had yet sounded was bad, being very hard; so'that, in this situation, if the wind blows fresh, there is always the greatest reason to fear that the anchor should come Rome before the ship can be brought up. While we were on shore it began to blow very hard, and the tide running like a sluice, it was with the utmost difficulty that we could carry an anchor out to heave us off; however, after about four hours hard labour, this was effected, and the ship sloated in the stream. As there was only about fix or seven feet of the aster part of her that touched the ground, there was reason to hope that she had suffered no- damage; however, I determined to unhang the rudder, that it might be examined.
Thur. ii. During all this night and the next morning the wind blew with great violence; we had let go our best bower anchor when we were near the shore, in hopes it would have brought us up, and had not yet been able to weigh it. We now rode in a very disagreeable situation with our small bower, and that unfortunately came home again: we therefore got a hawser out of the Tamar, who lay in the stream, and aster weighing the small bower, we got out by her assistance, and then dropped it again, most ardently wishing for fair weather, that we might get the ship properly moored.
Friday 2;, The next day we sounded the harbour higher up, and found the ground softer, and the water not so deep; yet the wind continued to blow so hard that we could not venture to change our station. We had found a small spring of water about half a mile inland, upon the north side of the bay, but it had a brackish taste; I had also made another excursion of several miles into the country, whichl found barren and desolate, in every direction, as far as the eye could reach. We had seen many guanicoes at a distance, but we could not get near enough to have shot at them; we tracked beasts of feveral kinds in the soil, near a pond of salt water, and among them a very large tyger: we sound also a nest of ostriches eggs, which we eat, and thought very good. It is probable that all the animals, which had left marks of their feet near the salt pond, drank the water, and indeed we saw no fresh water fox them.
The The spring that we had found, which was not perfect- 'l6*"b ly fresh, was the only one of the kind that we had ,^—J been able to discover; and for that we had been obliged to dig, there being no appearance of it except a slight moisture of the ground.
On the 24th, upon ilack water, we carried both the S*1, 2♦• ships higher up and moored them: the extreme points of the harbour's mouth at low water bore from E. by S. i S. to E. and the Steeple rock S. E. 5 E. We had here, at low water, but six fathom; but at spring tides the water rises no less than four fathom and an half, which is seven and twenty feet. The tide indeed in this place is such as perhaps it is not in any other. It happened by some accident that one of our men fell overboard; the boats were all along-side, arid the man was an exceeding good swimmer, yet before any assistance could be sent aster him, the rapidity of the stream had hurried him almost out of sight; we had however at last the good fortune to save him. This day I was again on shore, and walked six or seven miles up the country: I saw several hares as large as a fawn: I shot one of them, which weighed more than six and twenty pounds, and if I had a good greyhound, I dare fay the ship's company might have lived upon hare two days in the week. In the mean time the people on board were busy in getting up all the cables upon deck, and clearing the hold, that a proper quantity of ballast might be taken in, and the guns lowered into it, except a few which it might be thought necessary to keep above.
On. the 25th, I went a good way up the harbour in Sund. 15. the boat, and having landed on the north side, we soon aster found an old oar of a very singular make, and the barrel of a musquet, with the King's broad arrow upon it. The musquet barrel had suffered so much from the weather, that it might be crumbled into dust between the fingers : I imagined it had been'left there by the Wager's people, or perhaps by Sir John Narborough. Hitherto we had found no kind of vegetables except a species of wild peas; but though we had feen no inhabitants, we saw places where they had made their fires, which however did not appear to be recent. While we were on Chore we shot some wild