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17.65- nothing but our thanks in return. It is with great pleatfovember. sure tj,at \ pav this tribute to his liberality, and am very sorry that I cannot recollect his name, or the name of his vessel. In the afternoon, we worked round the First Point of Sumatra, and our soundings on the north-side, at the distance of about a mile and' a half from the shore, were fourteen fathom. At half an hour after three we anchored, and sent a boat to sound for the shoals which lie to the northward of the island called Lasipara, which bore from us S. E. by S. distant about six leagues. Little wind, and a strong tide of flood to the northward, prevented our working between the shoals and the coast of Sumatra till the Wednes 20 afternoon of the twentieth: the soundings were very regular, being nine or ten fathom as we stood over to the island, and five or six when we stood over to Sumatra. As this Streight has been often navigated, and is well known, it is not necessary to insert all the particulars of our passage through it; I shall therefore only fay, that at six o'clock in the evening of Tuesday the .Toes. %-. 27th, we steered between the islands Edam and Horn, and entered the road of Batavia. At eight, we anchored without the ships, Onrust bearing W. N. W. distant five or six miles.
C H A P. XIII.
Transqfiions at Batavia, and Departure from that
Wednes. 28 HT^HE next day, which by our account was the 28th, JL. but by the account of the Dutch at this place, was the 29th, we having lost a day by having steered westward a year, we anchored nearer to the town, and saluted the water fort with eleven guns; which were returned. We found here above a hundred fail great and small, and among others, a large English ship belorging to Bombay, which faluted us with thirteen guns.
There is always lying here a Dutch Commodore belonging to the Company, who, among h'rs countrymen, is a person of very great consequence. This gentleman thought fit to send hi» boat on board of me, with only the cockswain in her, who was a very dirty 1765. ragged sellow: as soon as he was brought to me, he ovcm cr" asked whence I came, whither I was bound, and many other questions which I thought equally impertinent, at the fame time pulling out a book, and pen and ink, that he might set down the answers; but as I was impatient to fave him this trouble, he was desired immediately to walk over the ship's fide, and put oft" his boat, with which he was graciously pleased to comply.
When we came to this place, we had not one man sick in either of the ships; but as I knew it to be more unhealthy than any other part of the East Indies, as the rainy season was at hand, and arrack was to be procured in great plenty, I determined to make my stay here as short as possible. I went on shore to wait upon the Dutch Governor, but was told that he was at his country house, about four miles distant from the town: I met however with an officer, called a shebander, who is a kind of master of the ceremonies, and heacquainted me, that if I chose to go to the Covernor immediately, rather than wait for his coming to town, he would attend me; I accepted his offer, and we set out together in his chariot. The Governor received me with great politeness, and told me, that I might either take a house in any part of the city that I should like, or be provided with lodgings at the hotel. This hotel is a licensed lodging house, the only one in the place, and kept by a Frenchman, an artsul sellow, who is put in by the Governor himself. It has indeed more the appearance of a palace than a house of entertainment, being the most magnificent building in Batavia; nor would a small edifice answer the purpose, for as there is a penalty of five hundred dollars upon any person in the city who shall suffer a stranger to steep a single night at his house, the strangers who make it their residence are never sew: all the houses indeed have a stately appearance on the outside, and are elegantly fitted up within, and we are told that the Chinese, of whom there are great numbers at this place, were the architects. The city is large, and the streets well laid out, but they have greatly the appearance of those in the cities of Holland, for a canal runs through most of
1765- them, with a row of trees planted on each side: this is ... inhr. conven;ent for the merchants, who have every thing
brought up to their own doors by water, but it probably contributes to the unhealthiness of the place; the canal, indeed, as the city is built in a swamp, might benecessary as a drain, but the trees, though they have a pleasant appearance, must certainly prevent the noxious vapours that are perpetually arising, from being dispersed, by obstructing the circulation of the air.
The number of people here is incredible, and they are of almost every nation in the World, Dutch, Portuguese, Chinese, Persians, Moors, Malays, Javanese, and many others : the Chinese, however, have a large town to themselves, without the walls, and carry on a considerable trade, for they hive annually ten or twelve large junk* from China; and to these the opulence of the Dutch at Batavia is in a great measure owing. The beef- here is bad, and the mutton scarce, but the poultry and fish are excellent and in great plenty. Here are also the greatest variety and abundance of the finest fruit in the world, but the musquitos, centipieds, scorpions, and other noxious vermin, which are innumerable, prevent all enjoyments, and even rest, as well by night as by day. The roads, for many miles about the city, are as good as any in England: they are very broad, and by the sides of them runs a canal, shaded by tall trees, which is navigable for vessels of a very large size: on the other fide of the canal are gardens, of a very pleasant appearance, and country house* of the citizens, where they spend as much of their time as possible, the situation being less unwholesome than the city: and there are so few of them who do not keep a carriage, that it is almost a disgrace to be seen on foot. December. At this place I continued from the 28 th of NovemMonday 10. ber to the 10th of December, when having procured what refreshments I could for my people, and taken on board a sufficient quantity of rice and arrack, to serve for the rest of the voyage, I weighed anchor and made sail. The fort saluted me with eleven guns, and the Dutch Commodore with thirteen, which I returned; we were saluted also by the English ship. We worked down to Prince's Island, in the Streight of Sunda, and
came came to an anchor there on the 14th. In this passage, 1765. the boats came off to us from the Java shore, and sup- November" plied us with turtle in such plenty, that neither of the f^day 14. ships companies eat any thing else. We lay at Prince's Island till the 19th, and during all that time we sub-Wednes. 19. fisted wholly upon the fame food, which was procured from the inhabitants at a very reasonable rate. Having now taken on board as much wood and water as we could stow, we weighed, and got without Java Head before night: but by this time a dangerous putrid fever had broke out among us; three of my people had died, and many others now lay in so dangerous a condition that there were little hopes of their recovery: we did not, however, bury one at Batavia, which, notwithstanding our stay was so short, was thought to be a very extraordinary instance of good fortune; and our sick gradually recovered afterwehad been a week or two at sea.
The passage from Batavia to the Cape of Good Hope, and from thence to England.
WE continued our course, without any event 1766. worthy of notice, except that one of my best Feb""r3rmen unhappily tell overboard and was drowned, till Monday the 10th of February, when at six o'clock Monday 10 in the morning, we faw the coast of Africa, bearing from N. N. W. to N. E. distant about seven leagues: it made in several high hills, and white fandy cliffs, and its latitude was 34° 15' S. longitude 21° 45' E. the variation here was 22° W. and our depth of water fifty-three fathom, with a bottom of coarse brown fand.
I stood in for the land, and when I was within about two leagues of it, I faw a great smoke rising from a iandy beach. I imagined the smoke to be made by the Hottentots ; yet I was 'astonished at their chusing this part of the coast for their residence, for it consisted of nothing but fand banks as far as we could see without the least bush or single blade of verdure, 1 and
1766- and so heavy a sea broke upon the coast, that it was T^Z impossible to catch any fish.
Wedurf.12. On Wednesday the 12th, at three o'clock in the afternoon, we were a-breast of Cape Lagullas, from which the coast lies W. N. W. to the Cape of Good Hope, which is distant about thirty leagues. The Thurss . 13. next day, we passed between Penguin Island and Green Point, and worked into Table Bay with our top-fails close reesed, there being a strong gale, with hard squalls at S. S. E. At three o'clock in the afternoon we anchored, and faluted the fort, which was returned. The Dutch told me, that none of their ships could have worked in, in such a gale of wind, and that we seemed to come in faster than they were generally able to do when the wind was fair. Yridiy 14. The next morning, I waited upon the Governor, who had sent his coach and fix to the waterside for me. He is an old man, but is a favourite with all ranks of people: he received me with the greatest politeness, and not only offered me the Company's house in the garden for my residence while I should continue at the Cape, but his coach whenever I should think fit to use it. As I was one day at dinner with him, and some other gentlemen, I took occasion to mention the smoke that I had seen upon one of the fandy beaches on a desolate part of the coast, and the surprise with which it had struck me: they then told me that another ship, some time before, had fallen in with that part of the coast, and had seen large smokes as I had done, although the place was uninhabited, and supposed to be an island: to account for the smokes, however, they told me also, that two Dutch EastIndiamen had, about two years before, failed fromBataviafor theCape, and had never afterwards been heard of; and it was supposed that one or both of them had been shipwrecked there, and that the smokes which had been seen, were made by some of the unfortunate crew; they added, that they had more than once sent out vessels to look for them, but that there broke so dreadsul a sea upon the coast, that they were obliged to return without attempting to go onshore. When I heard this melancholy account, I could only regret that I had not known it before, for I would then certainly