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1764.

September.

October. T.esd. 16.

of state, and after conversing about a quarter of an hour, in French, I took my leave, and was dismissed with the fame form that had been used at my reception. He ofsered to return my visit at a house which I had hired on shore, but this I declined, and soon after he returned it on board.

The people in my own ship, who had as much fresh meat and greens as they could eat every day, were very healthy, but there being many sick on board theTamar, I procured a place for them on shore, where they soon recovered. I also engaged a number of Portuguese caulkers, as the seams of both the ships were very open, who, after having worked some time, rendered them persectly tight.

"While we lay here, Lord Give, in the Kent Indiaman, came to the port. This ship had failed from England a month before us, and had not touched any where, yet she came in a month aster us; so that her passage was just two months longer than ours, nowithstanding the time we lost in waiting for the Tamar, which, though the Dolphin was by no means a good failer, failed so much worse, that we seldom spread more than half our canvas. The Kent had many of her people down in the scurvy.

On Tuesday the 16th of October, we weighed anchor, being impatient to get to sea, for the heat here was intolerable ; but we lay sour or five days about the bar, waiting for the land breeze to carry us'out, for there is no getting out with the sea.brseze, and the entrance between the two first forts js so narrow, and so great a sea breaks in upon them, that it was not without much danger and difficulty we got out at last, and if we had followed the advice of the Portuguese pilot, .we had certainly lost the ship. As this narrative is pub-, lished for the advantage of suture navigators, particularly those of our own nation, it is also necessary I should observe, that the Portuguese here, carrying on a great, trade, make it their business to attend every time a boat comes on shore, and practise every artifice in their power to entice away the crew: if other methods do not succeed, they make them drunk, and immediately send them up the country, taking effectual care to prevent their return, till the ship to which they

belong, belong has left the place; by this practice I lost five of n!?*4"

my men, and the Tamar nine: mine I never recovered,,'

but the Tamar had the good fortune to learn where her's were detained, and by sending out a party in the night, surprised them, and brought them back.

CHAP. II.

Passage from Rio de Janeiro to Port Desire; with some Description of that Place.

ON Monday the 22d, being now once more at sea, Monday 22. I called all hands upon deck, and informed them, that I was not, as they imagined, bound immediately to the East Indies, but upon certain discoveries, which it was thought might be of great importance to our country, in consideration of which, the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty had been pleased to promise them double pay, and several other advantages, if during the voyage they should behave to my fatisfaction. They all expressed the greatest joy imaginable upon the occasion, and assured me that there was no danger or difficulty that they would not with the utmost cheersulness undergo in the service of their country, nor any order that I could give them which they would not implicitly and zealously obey.

We continued our course till Monday the 29th, Monday 19. having frequently hard gales with sudden gusts, which obliged us to strike our top-gallant-masts, and get up our stumps; but this day it blew a storm, with a terrible sea, and the ship laboured so much, that, to ease ., ''. her, I ordered the two foremost, and two aftermost guns, to be thrown overboard : the gale continued with nearly equal violence all the rest of the day, and all night, so that we were obliged to lie under a doublereesed main-fail; but in the morning, it being more Tuesd. 3?. moderate, and veering from N. W. to S. by W. we made fail again, and stood to the westward. We were now in latitude 350 50' S. and found the weather as cold as it is at the fame season jn England, although the month of November here is a spring month, answering to our May, and we were near twenty degrees B 3 nearer

1764.

October.

November.
Friday 2.

nearer the line: to us, who within little more than a ; weekhad suffered intolerable heat, this change was most severely felt: and the men, who supposing they were to continue in a hot climate during the whole voyage, had contrived to sell not only all their warm clothes, but their bedding, at the different ports where we had touched, now applied in great distress for slops, and were all furnished for the climate.

On Friday the 2d of November, aster administering the proper oath to the Lieutenants of both ships, I delivered them their commissions; for till this time they acted only under verbal orders from me, and expected to receive their commissions in India, whither they imagined we were bound. We now began to fee a great number of birds about the ship, many of them very large, of which some were brown and white, and some black: there were among them large slocks of pintadoes, which are somewhat larger than a pigeon, and

Sunday^ spotted with black and white. On the 4th we saw a great quantity of rock weed, and several seals: our latitude was 38? 53' S. longitude 51? W. the variation 130 E. the prevailing winds here were westerly; so that being continually driven to the eastward, we foresaw, that it would not be easy to get in

S»turd. 10. with the coast of Patagon'a. On the 10th, we observed the water to change colour, but we had no ground with one hundred and forty fathom; our latitude was now 410 16' S. our longitude 550 17' W. the variation was 18° 20' E. The next day we stood in for the land till eight in the evening, when we had ground of red sand with forty five fathom. We steered S. W.

Sunday n, by W. all night, and the next morning had fifty-two fathom with the fame ground; our latitude was 420 34' S. longitude 580 1 7' W. the variation 11° | E.

Monday ti. On Monday the 12th, about four o'clock in the afternoon, as I was walking on the quarter-deck, all the people upon the forecastle called out at once, "Land right a-head;" it was then very black almost round the horizon, and we had had much thunder and lightning; I looked forward under the forefail,and upon the lee bow, and saw what at first appeared to be an island, rising in two rude craggy hills, but upon looking to leeward I saw land adjoining to it, and running a long way to the

southsouth-east: we were then steering S. W. and I sent 1T6*

officers to the mast-head to look out upon the weather\

beam, and they called out that they saw land also a Mond. 12.

great way to the windward. I immediately brought to,

and sounded ; we had still fifty-two fathom, but I

thought that we were embayed, and rather wished than

hoped that we should get clear before night. We made

sail and steered E. S. E. the land still having the fame

appearance, and the hills looking blue, as they generally

do at a little distance in dark rainy weather; and now

many of the people said that they saw the sea break

upon the sandy beaches; but having steered out for

about an hour, what we had taken for land, vanished

all at once, and to our great astonishment appeared to

have been a fog-bank. Though I had been almost

continually at sea for seven-and-twenty years, I had

never seen such a deception before; others however

have been equally deceived; for the master of a ship,

not long since, made oath, that he had seen an island

between the west end of Ireland and Newfoundland,

and even distinguished the trees that grew upon it. Yet

it is certain that no such istaud exists, at least it could

never be found, though several ships were afterwards

sent out on purpose to seek it. And I am sure, that if

the weather had not cleared up soon enough for us to

fee what we had taken for land disappear, every man

on board would freely have made oath', that land had

been discovered in this situation. Our latitude this day

was 430 46' S. longitude boo 5' W. and the variation

i9?3o'E.

The next day, at four o'clock in the asternoon, theTues. 13. weather being extremely sine, the wind shifted at once to the S. W. and began to blow fresh, the sky at the same time becoming black to windward: in a few minutes all the people that were upon the deck were alarmed with a sudden and unusual noise, like the breaking of the sea upon the shore. I ordered the topsails to be handed immediately; but before it could be done, I saw the sea approaching at some distance, in vast billows covered with foam; I called to the people to haul up the foresail, and let go the main sheet instantly; for I was persuaded that if we had any sail out when the gust reached us, we should either be over

set,

1764.

Novemb.

set, or lose all our masts. It reached us however before we could raise the main tack, and laid us upon our beam ends: the main tack was then cut, far it was become impossible to cast it off; and the main sheet struck down the first Lieutenant, bruised him dreadsully, and beat out three of his teeth: the main topsail, which was not quite handed, was split to pieces. If this squall, which came on with less warning and more violence than any I had ever seen, had taken us in the night, I think the ship must have been lost. "When it came on we observed several hundreds of birds flying before it, which expressed their terror by loud shrieks; it lasted about twenty minutes, and then gradually subsided. The Tamar split her main-fail, but as she was to leeward of us, she had more time to prepare. In a short time it began to blow very hard again, so that we reesed our main-fail, and lay to un

Wedn. 14. der it all night. As morning approached, tbe gale became more moderate, but we had still a great sea, and the wind shifting to S. by W. we stood to the westward under our courses. Soon after it was light, the sea appeared as red as blood, being covered with a small shell-fish of that colour, somewhat resembling our cray-fish, but less, of which we took up great quantities in baskets.

Thurs. 15. At half an hour past four in the morning of Thursday the 15th os November, we faw land, which had the appearance of an island about eight or nine leagues long, there being no land in sight either to the northward or southward, though by the charts it should be Cape Saint Helena, which projects from the coast to a considerable distance, and forms two bays, one to the north, and the other to the south. As the weather was very fine, I tacked and stood in for it about ten o'clock; but as there were many sunken rocks at about two leagues distance from it, upon which the sea broke very high, and the wind seemed to be gradually dying away, I tacked again and stood off. The land appeared to be barren and rocky, without either tree or bush: When I was nearest to it I sounded and had forty-five fathom, with black muddy ground. To my great misfortune, my three Lieutenants and the Master were at this time so ill as to be incapable of duty,

though

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