LETTER III.

Voyage to Cairo-Sais- Introduction to the Pasha Tombs of the Mamaluke Sultans Cairo at sunset Bazars Courtesy to Franks - Garden of Roda-Old Cairo-Cemetery of the Mamaluke Beys-School at Boulac-Printing-press - Egyptian Christians -Magicians, Jugglers, &c.

Jews

December 17, 1836.

HERE, my dear Mother, in Grand Cairo, we have been settled for more than a week, delighted with all we have seen, and fully prepared to enjoy ourselves during the remainder of our trip. We reached Cairo from Alexandria on the sixth day, the wind having been contrary during the first two or three of the voyage; we sailed on the Mahmoudieh canal to Atfi, in the course of a night, and there embarked on the Nile in one of the cangias,

or boats of the country, which hold two conveniently enough. Missirie and Abdallah, a handsome Kordofani-black as ebony-whom we have engaged as Arab interpreter and aidde-camp extraordinary, occupied a tent in front of the cabin, and, altogether, we got on very comfortably.

The only place of interest on the western branch of the Nile is Sa-el-Hagiar, the site of the ancient Sais, from whence the worship of Nith, or Minerva, was carried to Athens by Cecrops and his Egyptian colony, sixteen centuries before the Christian era. There she stood, the idol of Egyptian worship, veiled with her mysterious peplus, carried for ages afterwards, though in ignorance of its mystic meaning, in the sacred processions of Athens, and uttering those thrilling words of wisdom, that text for human vanity to meditate on "I

am all that is, all that hath been, and all that will be ; and my veil no mortal hath ever yet

uplifted!" What know we even now of Nature's mysteries? Are we wiser than Job? I

trow not.

Long before arriving at Cairo we saw the Pyramids towering in the distance like mountains cut down into their present shape; we have not yet visited them; Monday next will, I hope, dawn on our departure for that purpose. Caviglia, the famous Italian, who` rivals Belzoni in enterprise and success, breakfasted with us this morning; he is certainly a very extraordinary man; there is an account of his researches in an article of the Quarterly, furnished some years ago by Mr. Salt, very interesting, and well worth your perusal.

But I have had other visitors of no less celebrity — Linant, the French artist, who accompanied Laborde to Petra, and who discovered the ruined capital of Meroe; Gobat too, the Abyssinian missionary-Mr. Lieder, the

resident missionary at Cairo, introduced him to me—a tall majestic figure, benevolent countenance, long beard, and in the Turkish dress; I had a long and interesting conversation with him.

We have received the kindest attentions

from every one. Colonel Campbell, our Consul-General, has procured us every thing we could desire in the way of passports, firmans, &c. He introduced us to the Pasha a few evenings ago; as it is now Ramadan (the Turkish Lent, during which they fast all day and feast all night) he receives after sunset. We visited the old spider in his den, the citadel, where he ensnared and murdered the Mamalukes. Ascending a broad marble passage on an inclined plane (the substitute for a staircase), and traversing a lofty antechamber crowded with attendants, we found ourselves in the presence-chamber, a noble saloon, richly ornamented, but without an article of furniture

except a broad divan, or sofa, extending round the three sides of the room, in one corner of which squatted His Highness Mohammed Ali. Six wax-candles, ten feet high, stood in a row in the centre of the hall, yet gave but little light.(7)

About half an hour's conversation ensued between Colonel Campbell and the Pasha, chiefly statistical, and interesting as shewing his singular and intimate knowledge, extending to the minutest details, of every thing going on in his dominions.* He does, in fact, every

* "We walked straight into the Divan Chamber without being announced, or any ceremony whatever. The renowned Mohammed Ali was squatting in one corner of the room, smoking a most superb pipe, clustered with whole handfuls of diamonds; we all, after bowing, sat down on each side of him. Coffee was brought to each in the small cups like egg-cups, in beautiful filagree stands, universally used in the East; a pipe is never given but to a peer. He sent for his interpreter, and Colonel Campbell sustained the conversation for three quarters of an hour nearly. The Pasha spoke most practically and statistically of all his manufactures and undertakings,