in case none were sown at that time for an early summer crop, or that they have been killed by the severity of the winter; but in order to bring the plants up soon, and forward them in growth, it will be necessary to sow them in a slight hot-bed. Plants, sown at this season, if well managed, are to be more depended on for a general crop, than those which were sown in autumn, as they are not so apt to button, or run to seed, in April or May, as the others, and will produce their flowers within ten days as early; though such of the autumn raised plants, as do not button, generally produce larger flowers, and earlier.

Make the bed as directed for cucumbers, in page 4, to about three feet high, which, when settled, will fall to about two feet six inches, and put a frame on; then lay four or five inches of rich earth over the bed, sow the seed on the surface, but not until the violent heat of the bed is over; cover it by sifting or otherwise, with light dry earth, about a quarter of an inch deep, and then put on the glasses. When the plants appear, let them have air every day that the weather will permit, by raising the upper ends of the lights an inch or two; and in very mild weather, the lights may be taken off entirely, for a few hours in the warm part of the day: the plants must not be kept too close, for that would draw them up so weak, as to render them of little value; therefore give them as much air as possible, consistent with their preservation and promotion of growth; but let them be covered carefully at night, and in very severe weather.

Water them frequently, but sparingly, with water which has stood over-night in the hot-bed; keep them free from weeds, and in one month, they will be fit for transplanting into another hotbed.....See February.

Sorving Cabbage Seed.

This is a proper time to sow a full crop of early cabbage seed, to raise plants to succeed those sown in September; the kinds most suitable, are the early Smyrna, early York, early dwarf Battersea, and early sugar-loaf; they are to be treated in every respect, as directed for the cauliflower plants, with this difference, that as they are somewhat more hardy, a less degree of heat will be sufficient. Sow also some of the large late kinds of cabbage, such as the flatdutch, drum-head, &c. likewise some of the red pickling-cabbage ; the plants from this sowing will be fit for use in July, August, &c. and will produce better and larger heads than if sown in April or May, and besides, they will immediately succeed the early summer kinds above mentioned.

Sowing Carrots.

In some families young carrots are required as early as possible, and they may be forwarded by sowing the seed in a moderate hot bed, about the end of this month.

Make the hot-bed about two feet thick of dung, and procure some light, rich, dry earth, which lay six inches thick on the bed. Sow

the seed thinly on the surface, and cover it with the same kind of earth a quarter of an inch deep.

When the plants come up, let them enjoy the free air in mild weather, and cover them in cold nights, and also in every severe frost, whilst young; and when an inch or two high, thin them to about three inches asunder; and you will thus have young spring carrots for drawing in April and May.

Sowing Radishes.

In order to have radishes as early as possible, recourse must be had to the assistance of hot-beds; therefore, any time in this month, make a moderate hot-bed for one or more garden frames, only about two feet and a half depth of dung, sufficient just to promote the early germination of the seed, and forward the plants moderately without running them up long shanked, &c. When the bed is made, set on the frame, lay in about six inches depth of good light garden earth, then having some seed of the best early-frame, or short-topped radish, sow it evenly on the surface, press it into the earth with the back of a spade, cover it nearly half an inch deep with light mould, and put on the glasses.

When the plants appear, give them a large share of air, either by taking the glasses, &c. entirely off, whenever it can be done with safety, even for half an hour at a time, or tilting them up high at one end, as the weather will permit, otherwise they will draw, or run up long shanked, and be spoiled; and after the plants have been up a few days, thin them regularly with your hand, where they stand too thick, and leave the strongest plants standing not less than an inch asunder. Support a gentle heat in the bed, when it declines, by applying a moderate lining of hot dung.

Mushrooms.

Mushroom-beds should be carefully attended to at this season. They should have sufficient covering to defend them effectually from the frost, rain, or snow; which should not be less than two feet thick; and if heavy rain or snow should have penetrated quite through the covering, this must be removed immediately, or your spawn will be in danger of perishing. Replace it with good covering of clean and dry wheat or other straw; and in order to defend the bed more effectually from wet and cold, it is advisable to spread some large garden mats, or canvas cloths, over the straw, which will greatly preserve the beds.

Artichokes.

Artichokes, if not landed up before, should not be neglected any longer, except the severity of the frost prevents it: in which case, as these plants are liable to suffer greatly by rigorous frosts, it is advisable to give some tempory protection, first clearing away the decayed and large old leaves, then apply a good thick covering of

long, dry, strawy dung, or mulchy litter, close about each plant: but, if open dry weather, it would be most expedient to land them up; observing, preparatory to this, to cut away all the large and decayed old leaves close to the ground; then dig between, and earth up the plants, as in November and December.

But the work of landing up artichokes should always be performed in November or December; for which see the work of these months. It should never be omitted; for it is the most general effective method of preserving the plants in severe winters.

And after they are landed, if the frost should prove very severe, it will also be proper to lay light, dry, long litter over the rows: if the plants are of the true globe sort, too great care cannot be taken to preserve them; for sometimes a severe winter makes a great havoc among them; and, in spring, young sets to recruit the plantations, may be very difficult to procure.

SOUTHERN STATES.

In Georgia, South Carolina, and such parts of the other southern states, as are not subject to winter frosts, you may sow carrots, parsneps, beets, spinach, lettuce, radish, celery, parsley, cabbage, cauliflower, borecole, brocoli, leeks, onions, &c. especially towards the latter end of the month.

Sow peas and plant beans of various kinds, earth up such peas and beans as are advanced in growth, rod and stake such of them as require it; plant out cabbage and cauliflower plants, earth up late celery, and tie up endive for blanching: and, in short, do all the work directed to be done in the kitchen-garden for the month of March, where you will find ample instructions for performing the

same.

In such of the southern or western states, as frosts are prevalent in, at this season, the above work must be deferred till such period in next month, or even in March, as it can be done in, without danger from frost; with the exception, of planting the Windsor-bean, (Vicia Faba), and all the different varieties of that species; which ought to be planted as soon after the middle of January, as it is possible to get the ground in a proper state of preparation to receive them: they are very hardy, are not subject to rot in the ground like kidney-beans, provided it be dry; they thrive best in a heavy strong soil, and are seldom very productive in the United States, if not planted early.

THE FRUIT GARDEN.

Pruning.

WHERE pruning was neglected in November or December, it can now be done; though the latter end of February is a preferable time in the middle states, and the beginning of March in the

eastern; however, apple and pear trees being perfectly hardy, may be pruned at any time during the winter months with safety; plums and cherries may also be pruned any time that the weather is tolerably mild; and as this month will answer extremely well in the southern states, for pruning almost all kinds of fruittrees; it may be useful to give at this time, general instructions for performing the same, which may be referred to at any other period.

Pruning Espalier and Wall Trees.

As some people have not a sufficient idea of what is meant by espaliers, the following explanation, and instructions for forming them, &c. may not be unacceptable.

Espaliers are hedges of fruit-trees, which are trained up regularly to a lattice or trellis of wood work, and are commonly arranged in a single row in the borders, round the boundaries of the principal divisions of the kitchen-garden; there, serving a double or treble purpose, both profitable, useful, and ornamental. They produce large fine fruit plentifully, without taking up much room, and being in a close range, hedge-like; they in some degree shelter the esculent crops in the quarters; and having borders immediately under them each side, afford different aspects for different plants, and also they afford shelter in winter, forwardness to their south-border crops in spring, and shade in summer; and as to ornament and variety, what can be more delightful in spring, in the excursion of the walks, than the charming appearance which the trees make when covered with their showy bloom, differing in themselves, in those of different genera, species, and varieties; or in summer, to see the fruit of the different sorts advancing to perfection, and in autumn arrive successively to maturity? And as the trees are arranged all of an equal height, not exceeding six feet, closely furnished with branches, ranged horizontally at regular distances one above another, from the very ground upwards, the fruit hereby are exhibited to great advantage, and being low, and the branches fixed, are convenient to pull, and not liable to be blown down by wind.

An espalier has this advantage over a wall tree, that as being wholly detached, the branches have liberty to form fruit spurs on both sides, which in the wall tree cannot be effected but on one; in fact, common fruit-walls are unnecessary in the United States, except in the eastern and some of the middle states, where they are useful in forwarding to due perfection, and flavour, some late kinds of superior peaches, grapes, and other late fruits; but when walls are built for other purposes, and are conveniently situated, advantage ought to be taken of them, for raising fruit; observing, to suit the various kinds, to the various aspects.

Trellis's are also used occasionally for wall trees, where the wall does not admit of nailing the branches immediately against it; also for training wall trees in forcing-houses and forcing-frames, and are formed according to different degrees of taste, for use and ornament, as well as of different dimensions, from four or five to six, or in forcing-houses, to seven, eight, or ten feet high.

For common espalier fruit-trees in the open ground, a trellis is absolutely necessary, and may either be formed of common stakes or poles, or of regular joinery work, according to taste or fancy.

The cheapest, the easiest, and soonest made trellis for commoti espalier trees, is, that formed with straight poles, being cut into proper lengths, and driving them into the ground, in a range, a foot distance, all of an equal height, and then railed along the top with the same kind of poles or slips of pine or other boards, nailed down to each stake, to preserve the whole straight and firm in a regular position; to which the branches of the espalier trees are to be fastened with small osier-twigs, rope yarn, &c. and trained along horizontally from stake to stake, as directed for the different sorts under their proper heads.

To render the above trellis still stronger, run two or three horizontal ranges of rods or small poles along the back parts of the uprights, a foot or eighteen inches asunder, fastening them to the upright stakes, either with pieces of strong wire twisted two or three times round, or by nailing them.

But when more elegant and ornamental trellis's of joinery work are required in any of the departments, they are formed with regularly squared posts and rails, of good durable timber, neatly planed and framed together, fixing the main posts in the ground, ten or twelve feet asunder, with smaller ones between, ranging the horizontal railing from post to post, in three or more ranges; the first being placed about a foot from the bottom, a second at top, and one or two along the middle space, and if thought convenient, may range one between each of the intermediate spaces; then fix thin slips of lath, or the like, upright to the horizontal railing, ten inches or a foot asunder; and paint the whole with oil colour, to render it more ornamental and durable; and in training the trees, tie their branches both to the railing of the trellis, and to the upright laths, according as they extend in length on each side.

In either of the above trellis's for a common espalier, five or six feet at most, is a sufficient height, as, if much higher, the winds, having great power, would be very apt to loosen and displace them.

The permanent trellis's ought not to be made till the second or third year after planting, except the trees have had as long a time of regular and judicious training; for while they are young, it will be sufficient to drive a few short stakes into the ground on each side of the trees, in a straight line, to which the branches should be fastened in a horizontal position, as they are produced, in order to train them properly for the espalier; these will be sufficient for the two or three first years, for should you make the regular espalier or trellis the first year the trees are planted, many of the stakes would rot before the espalier is covered. For directions respecting the planting espalier and wall-trees, see March and October.

Pruning Apple and Pear trees, in Espaliers, or trained to Walls or Board Fences.

Apple and pear trees being of the spur-bearing kind, and their mode of bearing similar, one method of pruning answers for both;

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