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Thurf. 15.

1754. lour, fomewhat refembling our crayfish, but lefs, of which we took up great quantities in bafkets. At half an hour paft four in the morning of Thursday the 15th of November, we faw land, which had the appearance of an island about eight or nine leagues long, there being no land in fight either to the northward or fouthward, though by the charts it fhould be Cape Saint Helena, which projects from the coaft to a confiderable distance, and forms two bays, one to the north, and the other to the fouth. As the weather was very fine, I tacked and stood in for it about ten o'clock; but as there were many funken rocks at about two leagues distance from it, upon which the sea broke very high, and the wind feemed to be gradually dying away, I tacked again and ftood off. The land appeared to be barren and rocky, without either tree or bufh: when I was nearest to it f founded and had forty-five fathom, with black muddy ground. To my great misfortune, my three Lieutenants and the Mafter were at this time fo ill as to be incapable of duty, though the reft of the ship's company were in good health. Our latitude was 45° 21′ S., longitude 63° 2′ W.; the variation 19° 41′ E.

Friday 16.

The next day I shaped my courfe by the chart in the account of Lord Anfon's voyage, for Cape Blanco. In the evening it blew extremely hard at S. W. by S. fo that we brought to for the night Saturday 17. under our main fail. In the morning we made fail again, but we had a great fea; and although it


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was now almost midfummer in thefe parts, the
weather was, in every respect, much worse than it
is in the Bay of Biscay at the depth of winter. Saturday 17.
About fix in the evening, having carried all the
fail I could, we made land, bearing about S. S.
W. which as we had a good obfervation of the
fun, we knew to be Cape Blanco, but it now be-
gan to blow with more violence than ever, and
the ftorm continued all night, with a fea that was
continually breaking over us, fo that the fhip la-
boured very much. At four in the morning, we Sunday 18.
founded and had forty fathom, with rocky ground;
having flood off in the night, we now wore and
ftood in again, the ftorm ftill continuing with hail
and fnow: and about fix o'clock we faw the land
again, bearing S. W. by W. The fhip was now
fo light, that in a gale of wind the drove bodily
to leeward; fo that I was very folicitous to get
into Port Defire, that I might put her hold in or-
der, and take in sufficient ballaft, to avoid the dan-
ger of being caught upon a lee-fhore in her prefent
trim. We steered in for the land with the wind at
N. E. and in the evening brought to; but the
wind coming to the weftward, we were driven off
in the night. At seven the next morning, we stood Monday 19.

in again, fteering S. W. by S. by the compafs, and foon perceived the fea to break right ahead of ! us; we immediately founded, and fhoaled our water from thirteen to seven fathom, foon after deepening it again from feventeen to forty-two; fo that we went over the end of a fhoal, which a little farther to the northward might have been fatal to us.


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1764. Cape Blanco at this time bore W. S. W. S. diftant four leagues: but we were ftill at a lofs for Monday 19. Port Defire, it being impoffible that any defcription fhould be more confufed than that which Sir John Narborough has given of this harbour. I stood into a bay to the fouthward of the Cape, as he directs, but could find no fuch place; I therefore ftood along the fhore to the fouthward, the wind blowing off the land very hard, and saw several large columns of smoke rifing in many places, but no tree or bufh, the country resembling in ap. pearance the barren downs of England. We obferved also that the water was frequently very fhallow at the distance of seven or eight miles from the shore, for we had many times not more than ten fathom.

We continued to stand along the shore all day as near as poffible, and in the evening we faw an ifland at the distance of about fix leagues; in the Tuesday 20. morning we stood in for it, and found that it correfponded with Narborough's defcription of Penguin ifland. As Port Defire is faid to lie about three leagues north weft of this ifland, I fent the boat to look for it, and when she returned, having found it, I ftood in for the land. There were thousands of feals and penguins about the ship, and near Penguin Island several smaller islands, or rather rocks. In the evening, we faw a remarkable rock, rifing from the water like a fteeple, on the fouth fide of the entrance of Port Defire; this rock is an excellent mark to know the harbour, which it would otherwise be difficult to find. At

night, there being little wind, we anchored at the 1764. November. distance of four or five miles from the fhore; and J in the morning, with a breeze from the land, we wédnél. 21° turned up the harbour's mouth; we found it very narrow, with many rocks and fhoals about it, and the most rapid tide I had ever known. I came to ah anchor off the harbour in nine fathom, the entrance of the river being open, and bearing W. S. W. Penguin Island S. E. E. diftant about three leagues; the Steeple rock S. W. by W. the northermoft land N. N. W.; and two rocks, which are covered at half tide, and lie at the fouthermoft extremity of a reef which runs from the fame land; N. E. by N. I mention all these bearings particularly, because I think it may be of importance to future navigators, especially as the descriptions that have been given of this place, by the few who' have already visited it, are extremely defective. The wind blew very hard the greater part of this day, and there ran an ugly fea where we were stationed, yet I ordered our two boats to found the harbour, and attended in my own boat myself. We found it very narrow for near two miles, with a tide running at the rate of eight miles an hour: we found also many rocks and fhoals, but all the danger shows itself above water. When we came to the fhore, I landed, and walked a little way into the country, which as far as I could fee was all downs, without a fingle tree or fhrub. We faw the dung of many beasts, and had a glimpse of four, which ran away as foon as we came in fight, so that we could not certainly determine what they were; Vou, I. C but


1764. but we believed them to be Guanicoes, many of which we afterwards faw come down to the water Wednef. 21. fide: they refemble our deer, but are much larger, the height of fome being not less than thirteen hands; they are very shy, and very fwift. After I returned to my boat, I went farther up the harbour, and landed upon an island that was covered with feals, of which we killed above fifty, and among them many that were larger than a bullock, having before half loaded our boat with different kinds of birds, of which, and feals, there are enough to fupply the navy of England. Among. the birds one was very remarkable; the head refembled that of an eagle, except that it had a large comb upon it; round the neck there was a white ruff, exactly resembling a lady's tippet; the feathers on the back were as black as jet, and as bright as the finest polish could render that mineral: the legs were remarkably ftrong and large, the talons were like thofe of an eagle, except that they were not fo fharp, and the wings, when they were extended, measured, from point to point, nolefs than twelve feet.

The Tamar worked into the harbour with the tide of flood, but I kept my station with the Dolphin till I fhould have a leading wind, and the wind fhifting to the eastward, I weighed about five o'clock in the afternoon, intending to go up. with the evening flood: before I could get under fail, however, the wind shifted again to N. W. by N.; and it being low water, the ship lying but juft within the harbour, and there being no tide

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