Greek legislative assembly, which was held in an ancient theatre, temporary semicircular benches having been arranged for the occasion. The building had no roof, but, like the primitive theatres of Greece, was covered in with boughs of trees. The assembly was summoned by beat of drum. Mr. Keppel asserts that the President, Capo d' Istria, had already corrupted, by bribing, all the members to the number of about two hundred, and that they were prepared to approve of any measures which he might propose. They were for the most part dressed in the Albanian costume, which is eminently classical and becoming. Mr. Keppel gives the following not very prepossessing description of the President:

'His excellency is a man of small stature, with large dark eyes, black eyebrows, white hair, a very pale face, (apparently the consequence of the anxiety attending his situation,) and a pair of ears whose size has already been eulogised by a preceding tourist. I was introduced as a traveller on his way to Constantinople, and I was gratified by about five and twenty minutes' very entertaining conversation, if conversation it could be called, when the only part I bore in it was the occasional interjections of “oui,” "mais," and "vraiment." We were scarcely seated, when, without further preface, the president entered into what appeared to me to be a defence of his government. He began by repeating the usual arguments against the general diffusion of knowledge, alleging that instruction would be more detrimental than advantageous to the happiness of the Greeks in their present state: he said that it was impossible to legislate for a people who belonged to the eleventh, upon the principles of the nineteenth century. He observed that the greater portion of the Greeks were but little removed from the state of barbarians, but omitted to mention the number of patriotic and enlightened natives of Greece who were endeavouring to raise their countrymen from this degraded condition, or how assiduously he had himself been employed in undermining the laudable efforts of all such patriots. To some of his remarks the answers were so obvious, that I was about to attempt a reply; but I never got further than "mais," for the point was abandoned without a struggle, and his observations were dexterously shifted to another subject.

Upon the whole, I was more entertained by the interview than convinced by the arguments, or impressed with the talents of the speaker. There was something too dramatic in his manner, and the matter appeared to be too much got up to produce the effect intended. I afterwards compared notes with others who had also had the honour of an interview with the President of Greece, and found their reception to tally very much with

my own.

A few facts relating to Count Capo d'Istria will illustrate his character better than a host of arguments.

'In 1829, previous to the election of deputies for the Panhellenium, the president announced his intention of making a tour through the Morea, and applied to the French political agent, and to the admiral, for money to enable the peasantry to cultivate the lands, many of which had gone out of cultivation for want of means. A large sum was advanced to him, which he distributed among the electors of the several places were he was doubtful of obtaining votes; the consequence of this bribery was, that he

was elected for several places, which he filled with his own creatures, and obtained a chamber of deputies, as much at his command as if he had nominated every one. For the use he made of this power it is only necessary to refer to the acts of the Panhellenium, which gave him undivided and despotic sway, and then to trace it up to the alarming representations he is said to have made to Prince Leopold.

I was not present when he opened the assembly, but I understand he came dressed in a Russian uniform.

'I heard from an officer who was on board the Warspite in 1828, at the time Capo d'Istria was a passenger, that the conversation, almost every evening, turned upon the future prospects of Greece. The president discussed them with apparent frankness, and always deprecated that crooked policy of obtaining any thing by lying, upon the principle of selfinterest, which could not be obtained by straight-forward conduct.

'When, however, any favourite notion was combated, he would get furious, would often call for his bed-candle, and retire in a passion to his cabin, particularly when, in discussing the limits of Greece, the Morea and its islands were suggested as the probable extent.'-vol. i. pp. 26—30.

Mr. Keppel accuses the President of the most abominable hypocrisy with regard to Candia, of which so much was said at the time when the question of the Greek boundaries was under discussion. At the very moment when he was declaring in words and in despatches, that he on no account wished that island to be placed under his jurisdiction, and even justifying his objections by detailed reasons, he was actually engaged in organizing the insurrection of the Candiote Greeks, which afterwards proved so fatal to them! The author assures us that there are papers in existence which would completely establish this charge. He further states that the President has given the command of Napoli di Romania-the only strong-hold which the Greeks possess-to a Frenchman!-it being his policy to conciliate France, and at the same time to throw every kind of suspicion and odium upon England. It was in this spirit that the President dismissed General Church from the army, and Lord Cochrane from the navy. Indeed,' he adds, his whole system of politics is anti-English; and he is alike hostile to the regeneration of Greece, and to the interference of the British Cabinet in its affairs.'

The sight of Constantinople, its hippodromes, mosques, seraglios, coffee-houses, and bazaars, have been so repeatedly described, that we shall make no apology for passing them over. That once splendid capital seems to be going fast into decay, if Mr. Keppel's account of its desolate appearance be not overcharged.

It might almost be said, that the burying-grounds of the capital are as extensive as the town itself. What with fire, the plague, the bow-string, and the sword, the Turks have, since their establishment in Europe, but more especially of late years, required room to bury their dead. Formerly a dense population, they have now left the country almost a wilderness. Even at this spot, so highly favoured by climate, fertility, and commercial wealth, it is quite appalling to observe how few inhabitants have been

spared. During a ride of some miles, you may pass through streets where dogs are almost the only inhabitants. In the bazaars only, which are in the neighbourhood of the port, the stir and bustle of a capital can be remarked. Large quarters of the town, which fires have from time to time destroyed, remain deserted, the receptacles for the carcases of horses and dogs, upon which crowds of vultures and of dogs themselves may be seen to prey.'-vol. i. p. 77.

It is no wonder that there should be such a number of tombs near a capital which, during the late invasion particularly, witnessed such an extraordinary succession of executions. Conspiracies against the Sultan were either feigned or found every hour. There were every day four or five public decapitations; every night from fifty to a hundred individuals are said to have been strangled and thrown into the Bosphorus. The slightest suspicion was sufficient to warrant this extreme penalty. Mr. Keppel gives a translation of a yafta, or sentence, that was appended, according to custom, to the heart of an unfortunate man, who was executed, not for speaking treasonable language, but for hearing it! The document affords a horrible illustration of the state of criminal jurisprudence in Turkey.

"Achmet, kiaya (chief) of the corporation of merchants dealing in articles of luxury in Constantinople.

"This wretch obtained, some time ago, through the munificence of his highness, the office of kiaya of this corporation.

"Instead of shewing gratitude for the manifold benefits he had received; instead of thanking God in the five prayers; instead of praying night and day with his family for his highness and for the Mussulman nation, in remembrance of the favours by which he had hitherto been loaded; instead of attending to his own business; instead of abstaining from criticising business which did not concern him; instead of living quietly, and being more than any other of the like employment attached to government, as his duty and sense of obligation should have compelled him; this man not only omitted making any of these reflections, but made use of seditious language, saying that the seraskier pasha, or seraskier capissi, had been torn in pieces; that this and that thing had been done. It is in this manner that he had the audacity to cause to be circulated false intelligence, conduct tending to spread alarm amongst Mahometan people.

"The fact being alleged, and Achmet being interrogated on the subject, could not deny it. He only maintained that it was not he who had said it, but Abdi, a cavass of the imperial divan, living in the quarter called Feirouz-Aga. Abdi was summoned to appear, who being confronted with Achmet, he also has been unable to deny it.

"The boldness of their infamous conduct, and of the language which they have held on things which did not concern them, proves that these men are ungrateful wretches, traitors who ought to be made to disappear; and it is thus deemed necessary to execute upon them the penal laws, so that good order may be maintained. In consequence, the traitor, Abdi Cavass, has been executed in another place, and the robber, Achmet, has undergone the punishment here, so that he might seem as an example.” —vol. i. pp. 89-91.

After satiating his curiosity with the lions of Constantinople, the author, accompanied by Lord Dunlo, paid a visit to Adrianople, where the head-quarters of Diebitsch were then fixed. He describes the Russian troops as appearing in excellent order. In the cavalry every fourth man of the rear rank, and the whole of the front of each division, were armed with spears, which were found highly serviceable during the campaign. In marching, several of the infantry regiments are preceded by parties of men two deep, who sing in parts, serving, we suppose, as a substitute for a band. The mixture of the Russians with the Turks had already produced considerable changes in the manners of the latter. Their ladies were allowed to visit and be visited, stays were introduced, and in other articles of dress reform had begun to make its way. Strangers were even allowed to be present at their religious service, which is an innovation upon one of their most essential usages. We have from Mr. Keppel a description of their demeanour at service, which will be read with no ordinary interest, as it is very seldom that an English traveller has had an opportunity of witnessing such a

scene.

'I attended the mid-day service: the whole congregation were in the kneeling posture, their insteps flat on the ground, and their bodies resting on their heels. An imaun was before the altar, and chaunting in a strain not unlike that in our cathedrals. On pronouncing the words "Allah ickbar," (God is victorious,) they all simultaneously prostrated themselves, and striking their foreheads three times against the pavement, they called out "Subah en Allah,” (God be with us). On the repetition of the words “Allah ickbar” by the imaun, who acted as fugle-man, they rose up with the same precision, and continued standing. The effect of this uniform movement in their great variety of dress was exceedingly curious.

To the imaun's prayers succeeded those of the muezzim, who continued chaunting for some time in a harsh falsetto, and a service of responses then followed. An imaun now ascended the koorsee: he began by invoking blessings on all the sovereigns who had preceded Mahmoud, the present grand signior, to the mention of each of whose names the people called ameen (amen). The list was closed by a prayer for Mahmoud himself. The imaun then chaunted extempore several verses from the Koran. In one part of the service the congregation, with uplifted hands and inverted palms, called out, "Rub Illah ameen," (God pardon every one), a prayer in which infidels are included, and a part of the creed but little in unison with Mahometan intolerance.

The service ended by the priest giving the benediction of "Salam alekoom," (Peace be with you), to which the congregation all answered, "Aleikoom salam" (To you also be peace).'—vol. i. pp. 187–189.

The latter words are equivalent to the Pax vobis, et cum spiritu tuo, of the catholic worship. The admission of "infidels," as we christians are all called by the Turks, to the mosques, is an era in Mahometanism, from which its decline and fall may, perhaps, hereafter be calculated. Indeed the late war pretty clearly shewed, that the religion of the crescent had lost much of its terrible influence

upon the minds of its disciples. It no longer excites the same degree of enthusiasm, which appeared to flash from the scimitar in former days. The sultan himself is strongly suspected of indifference to the koran; it is certain that upon many subjects he possesses ideas which are altogether European. His success in destroying the janizaries is a striking proof of the superiority and firmness of his mind, and it is well known that he is anxious to abolish every usage, that merely depends upon prejudice and ignorance among his people. The entertainment which was given on board his Majesty's ship Blonde, in the Bosphorus, to the principal dignitaries of the Porte, on the occasion of the peace of Adrianople, furnished another proof of the enlightened disposition of the Sultan; for it must have been with his permission, if not by his order, that the invitation to that celebrated fête was accepted by all the members of the divan. Two or three years before that period such an indulgence would have been considered, even by the most liberal Turks, as nothing less than a profanation. Mr. Keppel was not present at this singular and interesting assemblage of Giaours and Mahometans; he has however been favoured by a friend with a description of it, which, besides being well written and highly amusing, unfolds to the philosopher abundant materials for reflection.

"It rarely happens at balls given on board ship, that more than onehalf of the deck is appropriated for the reception of company; but on this occasion the whole length of the frigate, from stem to stern, presented one beautiful saloon, partially divided off by the masts into four partitions. The lofty ceiling was formed of the flags of all nations, and illuminated by rows of variegated lamps, which wound round the masts in alternate ornaments of the crown and the sultan's cipher. In the bows of the vessel, rows of orange-trees presented the appearance of an enchanted grove, before which were spread narrow tables with refreshments, and between these and the foremast was chalked out the ball-room. A numerous and excellent band played from a semicircular orchestra round the mast, whilst immediately below them, and round the whole length of the ship, sofas, and rich ottomans, in every varied position, contributed to the splendour of the scene. The part, however, which attracted universal admiration, was the stern of the frigate; for here, where the deck rose gradually to an elevation higher than that of every other part, the narrowing form of the frigate presented to the enraptured sight a highly-finished open tent, illuminated by chandeliers. Down each side of it, and along the back, were rich divans of crimson satin, edged with gold. The floor was covered with an eastern carpet, and the sides were formed of gauze, in wide stripes of alternate white and pink, the latter in puckers, and producing a singularly soft and elegant effect. The upper part was ornamented with festoons of pink. The back part of the tent, which was of white satin, reflected two gilded ornaments of the crown of England and the sultan's cipher, embroidered in gold, on two blue velvet tiaras, and surmounted by miniature flags. Two small figures of angels, with wax-lights, threw a dazzling splendour over the beauties of this enchanting scene, which resembled the mystic bower of some fairy goddess, and terminated the long vista of the