Abbildungen der Seite
PDF
EPUB
[graphic][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][subsumed][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small]

CHRISTMAS has ever been rendered dear to the lovers of friendship and hospitality from the many charming socialities connected with it. The exuberance of the feelings, amid scenes of gaiety, induces the fair and youthful to shine to advantage under the gaze of many friends, and therefore to devote increased attention to the duties of the Toilet. It is at this festive season that

ROWLAND'S AUXILIARIES OF HEALTH AND BEAUTY are more than usually essential for preserving the Hair in its decorative charm, the Skin and Complexion transparent and blooming, and the Teeth in their pearl-like lustre. The Patronage of Royalty throughout Europe, their general use by Rank and Fashion, and the universally-known efficacy of these articles give them s celebrity unparalleled, and render them peculiarly

ELEGANT

AND

SEASONABLE

PRESENTS.

ROWLANDS' MACASSAR OIL

IS A DELIGHTFULLY FRAGRANT AND TRANSPARENT PREPARATION FOR THE HAIR, AND AS AN INVIGORATOR AND BEAUTIFIER BEYOND ALL PRECEDENT.

In dressing the Hair nothing can equal its effect, rendering it so admirably soft that it will lie in any direction, imparting a transcendent lustre, and sustaining it in decorative charm during the heated atmosphere of crowded assemblies.-Price 3s. 6d., 7s.; Family Bottles (equal to 4 small) 10s. 6d. ; and double that size, 21s. per bottle.

ROWLANDS' KALYDOR

FOR THE SKIN AND COMPLEXION

IS UNEQUALLED FOR ITS RARE AND INESTIMABLE QUALITIES, THE RADIANT BLOOM IT IMPARTS TO THE CHEEK,
THE SOFTNESS AND DELICACY WHICH IT INDUCES OF THE HANDS AND ARMS,

Its capability of soothing irritation, and removing cutaneous defects, discolorations, and all unsightly appearances render it
INDISPENSABLE TO EVERY TOILET.

Price 4s. 6d. and 8s. 6d. per bottle.

ROWLANDS' ODONTO,

OR PEARL DENTIFRICE,

Compounded of the choicest and most recherché ingredients of the ORIENTAL HERBAL, and of inestimable value in PRESERVING AND BEAUTIFYING THE TEETH,

IMPARTING TO THEM A PEARL-LIKE WHITENESS,
STRENGTHENING THE GUMS,

AND IN RENDERING THE BREATH SWEET AND PURE.

Price 28. 9d. per box.

SOLD BY A. ROWLAND AND
AND SONS, 20, HATTON GARDEN, LONDON.

AND BY CHEMISTS AND PERFUMERS.

BEWARE OF SPURIOUS IMITATIONS!!!

No. 348.

THE

LONDON AND PARIS

LADIES' MAGAZINE OF FASHION,

Polite Literature, etc.

FROM OUR FRENCH CORRESPONDENT.

DECEMBER, 1859.

BOULEVARD DES ITALIENS, 29th November, 1859. CHERE AMIE,-Silk materials have lost nothing of their richness; the most superb ones are used for evening dress, or grande toilettes. The mixed tissues of wool and silk are exclusively reserved for negligés. Dresses of black silk are always fashionable in demie toilette; the French watered silks and coloured satins are again appearing. The velours Imperatrice is a kind of Terry velvet, firmer and more brilliant; it is very rich in dark colours, and is made without flounces. Trimmings of coloured velvet are much used; brown and Marguerite are the favourite colours; brown on dresses and simple manteaux, Marguerite is used with black velvet; it is a colour which partakes of the currant and violet.

Trimmings and flounces of lace will be worn on carriage dresses, as well as on ball dresses; the trimmings of velvet or guimpe are equally in favour. At the bottom of a dress of taffetas or moire, they put a deep border of velvet en biais; if required to be more trimmed, several rows are placed, arranged according to the taste. Guimpes are placed on the front of the skirts, and also on the bodies, and are perhaps less common than velvet, but that must be regulated a little by the material, for the kind of trimming used which will sometimes look well with one kind will not with the other.

The double skirts, though seldom made in morning dresses, will be very fashionable in the light materials for ball dresses, as well as the narrow fluted flounces Pompadour. Corsages drapés and fancy berthes will be as much worn as they were last year; rich montants are worn all round the skirts, that is to say, up each breadth of the material, also en tablier in front; the bodies, always corresponding, should be ornamented with a marechale, also of point d'Hongrie. The bodies continue to be made very high, and to button; the basques seem to be quite abandoned, but pointed bodies are preferred to those entirely round at the waist, which shortens the figure; they are generally a good deal trimmed, and the sleeves exceedingly wide at the bottom; the closed ones are only used en negligé.

The indoor jackets now called Zouaves are novel only in name, and are more or less elegant as required; some have an oriental appearance by being embroidered in gold or silver, as the little vestes worn by the Sultanas.

The flounces on some silk dresses do not rise above the knee, and are often headed by a band of velvet of the colour of the dress; the flounces are edged by guimpe, fringe mousseux, etc., and long ceintures edged with guimpe are worn. The taffetas cannelés or moucheté, on sea green or mauve, or pale grey, are made with flounces at the bottom of the dress, or wide bands of velvet; or if preferred, in the front of of the skirt, gradually increasing in width, and covered by three rows of large buttons, trimmed with guipure, or, the whole in guimpe, constituting itself the front of the skirt; the same style is repeated on the body and sleeves, unless they are tight, which is frequently the case now. These guimpes should be of the same colour as the dress, unless it is dark; but black is no longer fashionable on light colours. The colour should be the same as the dress. A dress of black taffetas was trimmed with two bands of black velvet en biais, five or six inches wide, placed about the width of the hand apart, and forming pointed festoon; the sleeves were wide, lined with white silk and ruche of ribbon, inside two bands of velvet, as on the skirt, but narrower; high body, buttoning in front, and points before and behind; on the front and back a plastron of black velvet, surmounted by a feston, and jockeys of velvet on the sleeves.

Peignoirs, or negligé dresses, are made in the blouse style, but still fitting well to the figure. They are made of woollen materials or silk, but are little ornamented; the coins de feu are more varied in form; the casaque Zouave galonné, embroidered with gold or velvet, satin or cachemire; plain casaques are of cloth or velvet, or black guipure, lined with black satin.

Some peignoirs are made very elegant yet simple; one of noisette Terry velvet had two bands of taffetas of a darker shade, attached by

VOL. 32.

buttons of velvet, of the noisette colour; these buttons were as large as a crown piece. The sleeves not very wide, with cuffs mousquetaire, and similiar buttons confining the cuff, of which there were six.

The toilettes for children are very pretty, with their felt hats and feathers, flounces on their frocks, or bands of velvet or plaid popeline, according to the material used; guimpe trimmings are also used for them.

One of the prettiest novelties is the cap Imperatrice, the form of which is quite different from all others, though resembling most the Charlotte Corday; it is of Brussels or Valenciennes, a wide velvet, of either black or brown, is tied on the top of the forehead, and two large nœuds, without ends, are placed on the bandeaux. It forms the prettiest morning coiffure of a young lady. With a black or marron dress, the velvet may be ruby or sky blue; but to preserve it in good taste, the velvet of this cap should never be showy if the dress is of light colour, and the contrary if of dark colour; and as it is not intended for evening wear, velvet of violet, black, or marron, are preferred to all others.

The cold weather has commenced so prematurely this year, that warm attire has been in great demand. The manteaux and châles of velvet, ornamented with rich laces, are splendid; many are trimmed with fur. Opera cloaks are of cachemire, embroidered in tissue d'orient, striped. For useful wear, the forms of cloaks are full and long, of cloth much ornamented by guimpes, or bordered with black velvet, some with the hood bonne femme, which is full, others are of the shawl shape, which is merely a petite pointe falling on the back; at the two corners of these cloaks, the bottom round the shawl, and on the sleeves, ornaments of point d'Hongrie are placed; they are composed cords and detached bouquets. The India cachemire shawl will always be fashionable; there are also pretty shawls of plain cachemire, embroidered in flowers with black silk, and trimmed with broad black lace. These are very fashionable in Paris, and are made in every colour; they are only suitable for carriage wear, excepting those of dark colours, which may be worn with any dress.

The manteau Matchou ranks amongst the most elegant; it is a kind of paletot, with large sleeves made of velvet, and much ornamented. Another is the paletot bourgeois, made exactly as a man's paletot, only the sleeves are wider, with revers, and trimmed with velvet.

There is not much change in the forms of bonnets this season; they incline rather more on the forehead, but are very open at the sides, and many capotes are made with full crowns, velvet and taffetas being the materials used. Black lace and velvet, with feathers, are the trimmings most in use; flowers are reserved for crape or dress bonnets, the choux or rosette of satin is preferred; they resemble flowers without foliage or shade of colour. On velvet bonnets they place a bunch of flowers resembling poppies, or ranunculus; black and pink being very much in fashion, choux of pink and black are often used; black and red on black velvet, violet and black on a bonnet of either velvet or taffetas of violet colour. Terry velvet is also used for capotes; one of dark green had cock's feathers of very dark green and black, green velvet confined the feathers in a tie, terminating in a point, trimmed with black lace, on a full crown; the bavolet was of black velvet; inside the bonnet, some velvet and a small bunch of the same feathers. The voilette Clotilde maintains its favour; it is worn in demie toilette, with a simple bonnet, and which then requires no other trimming; it is a caprice of the day, and adopted by very elegant persons. A bonnet for morning negligé was made of violet velvet and taffetas, with merely a choux of velvet and ribbon on the left side near the ear; a bandeau of velvet was inside the front, and a voilette Clotilde may be added. A more elegant bonnet was of plain black velvet, and velvet of peach colour, round the form and the round of the crown only were black, on the left side was a bunch of curled feathers, inside a bandeau of black blond on the forehead, the sides of white blond, and two little tips of peach coloured feathers, also placed on the left side; very wide brides, one black, the other peach. Materials as well as colours continue to be mixed. Many bonnets are covered with spotted tulle, but velvet predominates on them; it is the headpiece and crown that are of tulle, the front and bavolet of velvet.

Amongst other novelties, we remark the cap is sometimes of ribbon ruché instead of blond, and is thought to be becoming; others have white blond at the sides as named above, and black blond across the forehead. Many morning bonnets are of black or violet velvet, the only trimming being a small scarf of velvet or lace crossed on the front, inside a large noeud and bouillons of tulle; some are between the bonnet and the capote. A pretty one in this style was made of green taffetas quilted, the crown covered by a resille of black silk, united to the front by a large noeud of black velvet in the centre, and on each side two smaller ones; another, also quilted, was of muve, with resille of black chenille, and noeuds of black velvet.

DESCRIPTION OF THE ENGRAVINGS.

PLATE I.-Evening Dress.-Robe of white satin; the bottom of the skirt has three bouillons of tulle, above which are two flounces of lace, each headed by bouillons and noeuds of cerise velvet; pointed body, with berthe formed of two falls of lace coiffure a l'Eugenie.

Morning Dress. --Robe of violet popeline; body and skirt without division at the waist, and buttoning all down the dress, ornamented en tablier by cords and tassels; tight sleeves, with bouillon top.

Dinner Dress.- Robe of taffetas; a deep flounce on the lower part of the skirt, and two narrower ones above, the deep one edged by a plisse, with marron velvet at each side, and ruche heading it, the narrow ones also edged by velvet, the skirt in full double plaits at the waist; high body pointed, and buttoning to the throat; mousquetaire sleeves, with plisse and epaulet to correspond with the flounces.

PLATE II.-Walking Dress.-Robe of taffetas and manteau paletot of brown cloth, ornamented with guimp trimming. Bonnet of green velvet, with feathers.

Carriage Dress.-Robe of black taffetas, with flounces of mauve; manteau of black moire, with pelerine trimmed with three rows of lace and tassels. Leghorn bonnet, with bavolet of the same; a wide velvet ribbon across the front, and poppies at the side.

Carriage Dress.-Robe of moire and manteau of marron velvet, with deep pelerines, ornamented with rich guimpes and fringe. Capote of quilled black silk, and trimmings of red velvet.

PLATE III-Evening Dress.- Robe of figured gauze, with triple skirt, each trimmed with two rows of plissé à la vieille; the berthe and hanging sleeves to match. Coiffure à l'Eugenie, with flowers over the forehead and behind.

Carriage Dress.-Robe of green velvet, with jacket body and

THE HOLY LAND-JERUSALEM.

JERUSALEM is certainly the most interesting city in the world; and late events in connexion with Russia and Turkey made the holy shrines it contains the subject of important negotiations. As the capital of the Jewish monarch, and the scene of the principal transactions recorded in the New Testament, it must ever be regarded with the blended feelings of curiosity and veneration; but historically it commands the liveliest attention. We think of the city seventeen times destroyed, and sixteen times re-built. Isaiah's hallowed fire yot lingers within its walls; and when we think of it as the city from which the Divine dispensation issued for the salvation of all mankind, we are irresistibly led in imagination to the temple in which the warning voice of our Saviour was heard, and the prophets, in stirring and mystic strains, foreshadowed coming events. Two scenes fasten upon the mind, like solemn memories of a troubled youth. We think of that meek entry into the Holy City-the holy purpose-the heroic heart-the Divine love that passed within the walls, as

The winged squadrons of the sky

Looked down with sad and wondering eyes,
To see the approaching sacrifice:

And then we turn to the other and tremendous incident, and ask, with the poet

Bound upon the accursed tree,

Dread and awful-who is He?

But, in a material view, Jerusalem is the most extraordinary city in the world. It is the true capital of Christendom, although now in bondage to the infidel Turks; and is still the rallying point-the great historical landmark-for a people dispersed all over the face of the earth. There are Jews in every nation, but the only nationality among the Jews is a deep reverence for the home of their ancestors. Jerusalem to them is like the fire-side of youth and manhood to those whom destiny has fixed in far-distant places, and who can only see "the old house at home" in their dreams. For eighteen hundred years have the Jews been wanderers from the land they wrested from the Philistines; and their return, in a matter-of-fact sense, now seems to be impossible; for the soil of Judea would not support a numerous

mousquetaire sleeves, with epaulets; two rows of fancy brown velvet trimming is placed in deep festons at the bottom of the skirt and on the sleeves and jacket. Bonnet of black and marron velvet. Evening Dress.-Robe of tarlatane, with double skirt, edged with blue velvet, pelerine of ermine. Headdress of hair and flowers. PLATE IV.-Carriage Dress. - Robe of moire, ornamented en tablier by velvet, edged by a ruche of black lace, and rich ornaments of guimp down the centre; the corsage is with pelerine, trimmed as the front of the skirt, bouillon sleeves, with revers mousquetaire. Bonnet of taffetas, with resille of chenille on the crown.

Dinner Dress.-Robe of popeline, with flounces edged by bands of plaid taffetas; high body, with bands up the front, round at the waist with ceinture and ends of plaid taffetas; sleeves of three bells, ornamented as the flounces under sleeves of white muslin. Coiffure à l'Eugenie, with resille of chenille and beads at the back.

Child's Dress.-Paletot of velvet, trimmed with fur and muff to match. Iat of felt, with ostrich feather.

PLATE V.-Promenade bonnet of Tuscan, trimmed with a band of black velvet, edged with lace. A bunch of red roses on one side. The curtain is of scarlet satin, edged with guimp.

Bonnet of white silk, with narrow mauve ribbon. A wide band of puce coloured velvet round the edge.

Dress cap of crimson blond, trimmed with white ribbon and flowers. Canczou of white muslin, trimmed with narrow black velvet, and a broad velvet bow.

Evening cap of white tulle, with rosettes of blue velvet. Headdress of orange and black satin ribbon, with two white roses and golden leaves.

Headdress of scarlet satin, silver flowers and black blond. Sleeve of pink plush, trimmed with ribbon of the same colour. Straw bonnet, trimmed with purple feathers and black lace. Under sleeve of pale blue plush, trimmed with ribbon of the same colour, and vandykes of black lace.

DESCRIPTION OF MODEL.

We give this month the model of a Jacket termed Turcos, rounding off on the hips and in front; the sleeve adapted for it was given in our last number; this jacket may be made in cloth, velvet, or any material wished, and trimmed or not.

population-it is arid and verdureless. But as the Jews are always united, although distant-they belong to a vast and solemn freemasonry-their reunion in the spirit has already been accomplished; and when they have accepted the Divine law of the Almighty Providence, they will become part of the whole Christian family, and the local idea of Jew and Gentile will be extinguished.

The deism of the Jews has materially contributed to keep them together; but it can scarcely be questioned that the systematic persecution which the Jews in every age-even in this-for the Jews are persecuted in Austria and Russia-we say, the systematic persecution they have endured, has contributed more than anything else to keep them in a state of isolation from the Christian Church. Trampled under foot alike by Roman Catholics and Greeks, they have nervously hugged their own traditions, and acquired fresh faith in their own interpretation of the promises of the Old Testament, from every fresh act of intolerance and cruelty. We feel convinced that, had it not been for this grinding and savage treatment, the separation between Jew and Gentile would not have been so wide as it is in the present day; at all events, the distinction would have been modified, and there would have been more hopeful signs of a mutual approach than at present exist. When the blending will take place, it is impossible to say that must depend on future circumstances. But when the Christian Church has healed its wounds-when all differences of opinion shall have vanished, and the spiritual law shall be accepted in its clear integrity, its Divine simplicity-the Jews will then have no excuse to offer for their voluntary ostracism, their indifference, their masonic brotherhood, and intractable but respectable fanaticism. When the Church is ready, depend upon it the Jews will be readyand not before. As to their return to Palestine in a material sense, that is only a theory. They are not bound to return to the actual soil their reception into the bosom of the Christian Church will complete the unity which at present exists between Jews and Christians, although both insist upon an arbitrary distinction. Both belong to the spiritual Church of Jerusalem, and the concord between them must be completed before the mission of that Church can be said to have been fairly inaugurated. We believe that Christianity is still only in a normal condition--that it is training mankind for an appreciation of its highest developments--and that when that moral and mental education has been more advanced, such preliminaries as creeds will

[graphic][ocr errors][ocr errors][ocr errors][merged small][ocr errors][merged small][merged small][merged small]
« ZurückWeiter »