No. 338.

FROM OUR FRENCH CORRESPONDENT.

BOULEVARD DES ITALIENS, January 28th, 1859.

CHERE AMIE,-We are told that the new year has been inaugurated in Paris by a grand revolution in dress, no less than the sacrifice of crinolines and hoops; ladies, however attached to the wide petticoat, yielding to the distaste so generally expressed by fathers, husbands, and brothers, which must ultimately cause their abandonment; but, like all changes, some time must naturally elapse before the modified skirts are universally adopted. A single observation may, however, hasten their exit; when ladies of fashion shall have entirely renounced them, the ballonné skirt will be considered vulgar, and in bad taste their doom will then be sealed. Morning dresses are almost all made high, and often with tight sleeves, resembling a man's coat; the skirts plain that is to say, not double skirts. As trimmings are indispensable, they should droop behind, almost forming a train, rounded and hollowed out on the ankle. Basques were denounced as long ago as last winter, and the body and skirt are often formed together. A dress of violet satin in this style, and another of emerald green; the one was ornamented with large rounds of black velvet, edged with narrow late; the lower ones being larger, in the centre of each was a guimp, mixed with small bugle tassels; they are placed on the four seams in front, and much smaller ones on the body; the front of the skirt entirely ornamented by them in rows.

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Dresses are much varied, but the morning, dinner, and ball dresses are quite distinct in the ornaments; the first are with heavy guimps on thick materials; plats and aiguillettes, cords of velvet, guimpures with jet beads, stars in guimp to ornament the two front breadths of the skirt and body; round ornaments are also made, trimmed with lace. Ball dresses are ornamented with ribbon or tulle ruches, or gauffered talle; the flounces of these dresses are often trimmed with narrow white blonds, mixed with black lace; satin is much in favour. dress of grey satin was made with two skirts; the upper one raised at the sides by a large noeud of satin, trimmed with a fringe of white chenille; the skirt is also ornamented with the same fringe. Charming trimmings for ball dresses are made of gauffered ruches of velvet, gauze ribbons, plain or satinés, and blonds of every width; very handsome guimps are among the most fashionable ornaments of the day. Dresses, corsages, manteaux, coiffures, all seem to require a trimming of this description; the fashion of ceintures, or waistband with buckle, continues.

For the evening family reunions simplicity generally prevails in the toilettes, particularly among the juvenile members, to whom nothing is more suitable than white tulle or tarlatane; the smallest bouquet of flowers embellishes it; a row of pearls, garnets, or coral as necklace, are at once both simple and pretty. A tartalane dress, with several skirts, or with seven or eight flounces pinked, a wreath of white lilac, pearl necklace, and bunch of natural flowers in the body, is a toilette so simple and unexceptionable as to be attainable by all. Ball dresses are usually of white tulle; the double skirts, raised by flowers or nœuds of ribbon, the most generally adopted style. Another, however, offering more novelty is a roll of tulle, very full, and very long behind, over white satin, made longer than the tulle, which should be trimmed with a bouillon of tulle, in the centre of which are placed flowers, without foliage, or noeuds of ribbon, without ends. These noeuds have an agrafe, or fastening of velvet, sometimes embroidered in silver or gold; low bodies, with rounded points, a berthe of tulle of the material as the dress, is the usual accompaniment to the body; in the centre of the berthe is a bouquet, or an ornament in jewellery, with pendants; some are made of coral, with drops round or pear-shape; some are of mixed precious stones. Moutants of flowers and corresponding ones for the body are used; the bodies are mostly with drapery; they are not worn quite plain, unless covered by the new fancy berthes, with long rounded ends; pendant on each side of the skirt or tying behind, and hanging very low as a ceinture. Lace is the indispensable accompaniment of the richest evening toilettes; it is used either as flounces, moutants, or trimmings à la Watteau in front of the skirts.

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colours continue much the same; delicate shades of blue, pearl grey for carriage wear and dinner dresses; darker blue, noisette grey, violets, greens, in all various shades for walking dresses. Green Véronese has much success; some triple skirts are made, but the double skirt-one of satin, the other of velvet-is worn both of the same colour, but of different shade; the under one a little darker; this style is rather exclusive, and whether it will be generally received we cannot vouch for.

Steel is much in favour for waist buckles, snaps for bracelets, fastenings for manteaux; steel in chains or brooches is also pretty for coiffures, mixed with black velvet; a plat of black velvet, encircled with steel and gold beads, and long tassels of steel and gold falling on the throat, forms a pretty coiffure, as also two bands of velvet, placed flat on the head, embroidered with beads.

Furs were much in favour among the new year's gifts in Paris; muffs of marten and vison, round pelerines, opera cloaks, trimmed with swans'-down, etc.

Manteaux are made of velvet, in large folds, and pelerine of fur or lace; Arab burnous of woollen material, and the Raglan of cloth; there is a new form of hood for opera cloaks.

In bonnets, two styles seem to divide public favour. Among the higher classes in Paris, the fashion is to wear plain velvet bonnets, without any mixture of colour; a heron feather, or merely a large ornament of velvet; sometimes a black lace, in two rows, forming fauchon behind; the brides of black taffetas, even if the bonnet be of violet, green, or marron velvet; sometimes, however, they are preferred the colour of the bonnet; a simple papillon noeud, a natte, sometimes a blond form the only ornament inside; the simplicity of this style requires a practised hand to give it the elegant finish that distinguishes it. The other style is less simple and more general; velvets and satins, taffetas and plush mingling, well-chosen colours. Bonnets of white satin, with edge and ornaments of green or blue velvet, black velvet and rose de Chine, with cock's feather, or long drooping feather of marabout; crape bonnets are often trimmed with feathers and blonds; sometimes also accompanied with taffetas, or crape of another colour. The Empress wore lately a bonnet of black velvet, and all the trimming was of pink satin, the brides of black satin. A bonnet of violet satin and white plush was extremely pretty; the crown was soft of the white plush, as well as the edge of the bonnet; a nœud of violet satin falling on the crown and bavolet; a plat of violet satin was placed at the termination of the plush in the centre of the front; brides of violet satin. Some velvet bonnets are with plissé crown, and small buckles introduced in the trimming; others, also of velvet, have crowns of taffetas in runners, and a kind of bandeau of the same on the front.

DESCRIPTION OF THE ENGRAVINGS.

PLATE I.-Carriage Dress.-Robe of moire, with moutants up the sides of the skirt of stamped velvet. Corsage with revers to correspond. Polonaise of taffetas, ornamented with plaid; very large sleeves, edged by plaid taffetas, and three narrow rows of it on the pelerine, which is edged with fringe. Bonnet of white Terry velvet, with satin flowers and leaves.

Promenade Dress.- Robe of satin, ornamented with velvet. Manteau of velvet, trimmed with lace, headed by a puffing of ribbon. Bonnet of white satin and black lace, ornamented with wreath of fruit and foliage of velvet noeud of ribbon on the forehead.

Little Girl's Dress.-Frock of checked popeline, with high body of a square form. Manteau of Cachemire, trimmed with plissées à la Vieille, and a narrow row of plissée on the shoulders, forming pelerine. Felt hat, with feather.

PLATE II.-Carriage Dress.-Robe of pearl grey moire antique, with moutants of green plaid up the sides of the skirt, forming pelerine on the body and edging the frill of the bouillon sleeve. Bonnet of pink satin à coulisses.

Evening Dress.-Robe of pink taffetas, with double skirt, ornamented by rows of narrow black velvet and embroidery; low body,