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writer of this paper enjoyed for many years), | on the grass, the slight, pervous, but well-made Leigh Hunt lived; and here Keats and Shelley form of the young poet; his well defined and visited him. Here it was that, on a bitter susceptibly expressive features, his large dark, winter's night, with a fierce wind blowing-and earnest eyes, brown flowing hair, and small the wind (says the writer of Rimini) loses head-and, alas ! faded hands; for, even then, nothing of its fierceness on Hampstead Heath he felt the flowers growing over him. It was Shelley found a woman lying on the snow, amidst the sylvan shades and sunny slopes on the top of the hill. Knocking at the first of Hampstead that “Endymion" was written, door he came to, he asked to have her taken in while living with his friend Charles Brown. and cared for; or, at least, that she might be Keats afterwards resided with Leigh Hunt, in placed in an out-house, out of the inclement the house already referred to in Heath Vale; night. Being refused, he made an application and “ Lamia," " Isabella,” “The Eve of St. at the second house, only to meet with the same Agnes," and the noble fragment of “Hyperion” result; whereupon he took her up, and carried are said to have been written in a pleasant her down the bleak path to the Lodge. His chamber of it which looks out upon the Upper charity was not ill bestowed. The woman (who Heath. Lord Byron also is said to have tenanted was on her way home to Hendon) had been a house in the Vale, and probably about this all-day attending a criminal court' in which a time. charge had been made against her son, and, But while the whole of this bright galaxy though he had been acquitted, the suspense were "gathered to the King of thoughts," with and agitation, together with fatigue, had affected the exception of Leigh Hunt, who outlived her, her so seriously as to produce fits, from which the author of “De Montford” kept a little court the doctor who was called in asserted she could for literary callers, and received, in her simple, not have recoved but for the timely care and old-fashioned home, the homage of the great in shelter she received.

rank and intellect. It was on the occasion of a In the pages of Leigh Hunt we find Shelley visit to Joanna Baillie that Mary Howitt, calling loitering in the fields, leaning, note-book in with her little son Charlton, had the pleasure of band, upon the old grey gates that led through meeting Sir Walter Scott, whose admiration of fields, or wood-paths out up the breezy Heath. the fair Saxon curls, and bright looks of the Sometimes we wonder if it were here that he boy, must ever be associated with her rememheard the skylark singing, as he himself sang- brance of the kind-hearted author of the Wa

verley novels.
“Like a poet hidden
In the light of thought,

In 1851, at the ripe age of eighty-six, the little
Singing hymns unbidden,

church-yard through which her feet had passed "Till the world is wrought

for so many years, received the remains of the To sympathy with hopes and fears it heedeth not.”.

Hampstead poetess, whose sister survived her

some ten years. During this time Hampstead Sometimes see him, on summer's

had still its literary settlers, who, if they did not day, sauntering in Millfield Lane, with

lead the Muses “into fields full ankle-deep with branches green and shadows

lilies of the vale,” conversed with them very

numberless"-a lane so sylvan and flowery, in blos- sweetly,

The Howitts-William and Marysom time, that, if my readers do not know it, though living at Highgate, were frequent visitors they should take the earliest opportunity of be to Hampstead Woods and Heath. And, though coming acquainted with it, if only for the sake the author of “Lydia,” and other works which of the memories that cling about it. It runs

have made a permanent place for themselves in from the road between Hampstead and High

our literature, Camilla Toulmin (Mrs. Newton gate to the foot of Highgate hill, dividing the Crosland), did not reside at Hampstead when grounds of Lord Mansfield and Southampton,

we first knew her (too long ago to tell contembut affording pleasant glimpses of the former poraries), her pretty home was on the high road through breaks in the trees that overhang it.

to it. It is a charmed spot for ordinary idlers; but

The Lovells, also, whose plays have won as

De Montford,” are most of all for those who bring with them many tears and plaudits as memories of “ Endymion," and Adonais,"

residents as I have said. The Lintons, too, she whose authors are for ever associated with it. whose young pen wrote “Azoth, the Egyptian,” Here Elia and Hazlett walked in the steps of and who, together, charmed with pen and pencil

, the poets ; and others have trodden it with silent lived here some time; so did also the sweetly feet who shall be in the hereafter of their com

serious writer of “ John Halifax.” At present pany. Keats, who had many friends in the the cottage in which she lived, at North-end, is neighbourhood of Hampstead, was fond of re- tenanted by the clever author of “The Life of siding here; its localities were the scenes of his Wedgewood,” Miss Meteyard (the “Silverpen” earliest abstractions, and suggested many of his of " Douglas Jerrold's," and many other mabest poems. Here he found

gazines). She, if she sees them, will remember

pointing out many a green spot named in "All he had loved, and moulded into thought From shape, and hue, and eolour, and sweet sound.” “While through the west, where sank the crimson day,

Meek twilight slowly sailed, and waved her banners In those bygone days, one might see, cast grey"

we

a

66

these pages.

Nor must we forget, amongst names to be re- beate springs on the grounds, the nature of which membered in connection with our subject, that Hampstead was once well known. The principal of Florence Nightingale, who came hither to walls are 2 feet thick, being built for an hotel for a recruit her failing health, after the effects of her public company and with the present fittings, cost almost superhuman efforts in the Crimea. nearly £15,000. To eflect a speedy sale £5,500 will

Royal visits to Hampstead in our own times be taken for the freehold, or £3,500 for 99 years are not unknown. King William the Fourth, I lease, subject to an annual ground-rent of £100. who was chiefly remarkable for doing things Apply to Messrs. Dowsett and Chattell, 29a, Lincoln'sthat others did not, upon a summer's day (23rd Inn-fields, where a plan and views may be seen. of July, 1835), paid a Royal visit to Hampstead, In other ways, at all events, this advertisement and afforded his subjects in these northern parts is consolatory, For having thustraced the story of a day of loyal effervescence, and high festival. this loveliest of London suburbs, itis not toomuch In happier days, her Majesty Victoria used, it is said, to ride

frequently to the grounds in the to say that we hope its wide views may never be vicinity of Fitzroy Park (but then the Queen impeded, and that future generations may make has the eye of an artist), for the sake of enjoying verdant nooks, woody shades, its new-mown

sunshine-holidays" amidst its the lovely view, which is so much more beautiful and extensive than one would imagine ; for fields of scented vernal grass, and the wild still, as in the time of De Foe, one may dis- freshness of the wind-swept Heath! so shall tinguish, on a clear day, in the north-west, Hampstead still, as in old Drayton's time, reHanslip steeple, which is within eight miles of mains the noblest Hill." Northampton, and see the Langden Hills, in Essex, to the east-objects which lie at least sixty-six miles apart. Then there is the prospect to London, and beyond to Banstead Downs, Shooter's Hill, and Red Hill; while, on the west, A Carol for Christmastide. the view is uninterrupted to Windsor Castle. But to the north (says the topographer) one can see no further than Barnet, which is only six miles distant. We are living in days of removation : old

The Glorie of the Lord shines round, novels, old

songs, old superstitions, and old fashions crop up from the past, and are read

And Peace, Good-will proclaim :
and sung and restored. “ Clarissa” wakes the The long-foretold— The Christ is found
sympathy of a new generation of readers—the And Jesus is His name!
kettledrum of the ladies Betty or Dorethea,
who bought the best green tea at eighteen
shillings a-pound of the poet Gray's aunts, at The Angels joie, in realmes above,
the “Two Fans” on Ludgate Hill, or at some i That Man's redeem'd from Sinne,
India-House at Exeter Change, is again in / Sav'd by MESSIAH's ceaseless love,
vogue, and gowns à la Watteau all the fashion.

Which one and all may winne!
Who knows, therefore (hydropathy being on the
increase) but that the fashion of the Hampstead
Wells may return! The water at the Shep-

True type of harmonie, when Earth
herd's Well is in excellent rusty condition ; and
in the following advertisement, which has re-

With Heav'n doth join in praise cently appeared, we cannot help thinking that

To celebrate a Saviour's birth, something of the kind is in anticipation. Let And Hallelujahs raise ! my readers judge for themselves : HA

May Blessings flow the coming Yeare, the centre of Hampstead-heath. This lovely spot, near to the Metropolis, can never be built over,

And Christ, as Bethle'm's star,

To where He rells lead wand'rers neare, protective rights being attached to this property, in common with that of other owners of land enfran

Who seek Him from afar! chised from the Heath, which also affords an almost unlimited area for exercise and amusement, in the

ATHELWODE, highest and healthiest suburb of London. The FREEHOLD or LONG LEASE of this castellated MANSION is now on SALE by Private Contract. It contains 28 bed-rooms, capable of being made into spacious dormitories, besides large public rooms and The moment humility is spoken of by him who has offices ; gas and water laid on from the company's it, that moment it is gone. It is like those delicate mains, hot baths, and every arrangement adapted for things which dissolve the instant they are touched. a public institution, sanatorium, large infirmary or, You must seek out the violet; it does not, like the school, or economical place of resort, like the estab- poppy, thrust itself upon your notice. The moment lishment at Malvern or Buxton, there being chaly. ; humility tells you “I am here,” there is an end to

it,

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LEAVES FROM MY MEDITERRANEAN JOURNAL.

BY A NAVAL CHAPLAIN.

nor

asso

Chap. VIII.-SMYRNA.

With the ancient City of Smyrna, however,

this sketch will have very little to do. Suffice As the return journey from Constantinople, it for its purpose to remark, en passant, that it lying through the Archipelago, gave us oppor- was one of the many claimants to the honour of tunity of touching at Smyrna, an account of being the birthplace of Homer; and boasted of our visit to the latter forms a natural continua- possessing the grotto in which his famous epics tion of what has gone before. Smyrna is well were written. Irenæus ascribes the introduction worthy of prolonged notice on many accounts; of Christianity into this part of Asia chiefly to and, first of these may be said to be its anti- the exertions of Polycarp, who was the first quity; next, is its peculiar distinctive character; Bishop of Smyrna, and was afterwards martyred and lastly, its commercial importance, as the there. It is with the modern City of Smyrnacentre of the Levant trade. Our voyage to or as the Tnrks call it, Izmir-that the present Smyrna did not present any incident of such narrative must concern itself. As soon as we especial interest as to be worthy of note. had learned that Smyrna was our next destinaMaking a passage in a man of war, is always tion, the city began to acquire considerable immore or less monotonous, more so than any portance in our minds, and this arose, I must similar run in a packet would be. This is admit, not from its being the Smyrma of easily accounted for, by the fact that, in the for- Homer, yet from its being mer, the individuals who are compagnons de ciated with the

memory
of the

good voyage, on this occasion have been so for “Bishop and martyr," but, from its being months past, perhaps years; whilst each suc- the well-known centre of eastern trade, and concessive trip in a packet presents new faces, new sequently the best mart in which to purchase phases of character, and representatives of dif- such specimens of oriental manufacture and ferent nationalities. The watches were duly curiosities as we intended to take home. kept," the “rounds were regularly gone,” and Arrived at Smyrna, our anticipations became all that belonged to the monotonous inner life greater than ever, owing to the imposing effect of a man of war went on with the usual horary of the bay. This, which affords a splendid regularity, as we lessened the distance (over anchorage to the ships of all nations, is very two hundred miles), separating Constantinople extensive, and stretches its fair proportions into from Smyrna. The general occupation when the town in such manner as to have suggested making a passage to a new place is to endea- the building of handsome quays abounding vour to learn, either from some more travelled with solid and capacious store-houses. The messmate, or, failing this, from poks, what the presence of these gives the visitor a “sights” are.

The number of ports visited by favourable impression of the town when seen a man of war, and the shortness of the stay in from the sea; and, even on the first landing, the many of them, renders it necessary to know expectation is greater than is at all borne out beforehand what objects of historical or other by subsequent experiences of narrow streets and interest are within such distance as to be of miserable wooden-houses to be met with in the easy access by short excursions. Sailors have a interior of the city. As is usual, when a ship proverbial and practical knowledge of geo- arrives in a foreign port, we were soon surroundgraphy, but their principal historical knowledge ed by boats, and these, though Turkish in is, I am inclined to think, derived from James's character, fell far short of the gilding and Naval History and such topographical notices general ornamental style of the Constantinople as their visits to remarkable localities suggest caiques. “ The correct thing," on landing in a attention to. I am afraid that very few of our foreign port, is to “leave a card on the Consul.” number knew-before the date of the visit I am This custom, however useful in the case of now describing-that the name Smyrna is admirals and post-captains, is rarely productive borne by the city in honour of a heroine or of much benefit to any of the officers. WardAmazon, to whose worship its inhabitants were room or gun-room officers will, however, accorddevoted. Whether the heroine Smyrna was an ing to my experience, make a much more usehistorical reality we are not able to ascertain : ful acquaintance by calling on the contractor I shrewdly suspect she had no more real ex- instead. This latter functionary is generally an istence than had “the great Goddess Diana of English or native merchant, who, in addition to the Ephesians;" nay, more, that they were his regular mercantile occupation, supplies such identical! This opinion gains ground when it men-of-war as arrive in port with fresh beef, is remembered that some historians ascribe the vegetables, and any other stores they may stand origin of the ancient City of Smyrna to the in need of. His account is vouched for by the labours of the Ephesian colonists.

signature of two other local merchants, testifying

more

to the prices charged being those of the market; | kneeling position, as the burdens are thereby and the amount is paid by a bill on the British rested upon the ground on either side of the Government, drawn by the paymaster of the weary brute; in the latter, the fact that the ship, and endorsed by the captain. Contracting kneeling posture renders the loading or unloadfor the supply of necessaries to English men-of- ing of the animal an easier task, causes the war, though fairly conducted, is of considerable driver to suggest to the camel the adopting of profit to the contractor; and he will generally be that posture, conveying the bint to him by refound civil and obliging to all the officers, and peated blows upon the legs. Before leaving the Fery willing to be of use to them by his counsel camels to their rest, I may remark that, although and advice as to the best stores, or traders to they are in general animals of mild and docile deal with, in the purchase of such specimens of disposition, and have always a very mild exthe native trade or manufacture as they may pression of countenance, instances, however, desire to purchase as souvenirs of their visit. are not wanting, in which camels have been Repairing at once from the landing-place to the known to fight with each other with great fury; house of business of the contractor, we ex- and I believe they would, when incensed, turn changed our English money for the current coin upon the driver were such rebellion safe. Anyof the place; and then, under guidance of one one who has seen a camel “show his teeth” of his subordinates, proceeded in the direction will not doubt of the assertions sometimes heard of the Turkey carpet and Persian rug-stores. as to the bite they can occasionally give. I myOn entering that indicated as the best of these self have heard the angry voice of an obstinate shops, we found ourselves in a large square camel, and can well believe that, if he be as house, devoid alike of partitions or furniture. patient as the donkey, he is, in all probability, Pides of carpets and rugs were ranged along the just as dogged and mulish. The old saying, walls, ample space being thus left in the centre that " It is the last straw that breaks the for displaying the beauties and attractions of camel's back,” is suggestive of an amount of quality exbibited by those that were in turn un- patience that would induce this animal to folded for our inspection. The articles dis- endure to the death almost unrepiningly. Any. played in this store were all of excellent quality one who has stood to see a caravan loaded, howand well worth the prices we gave for them. ever, will, I think, bear me out in saying that he The Persian rugs varied in price from two has often heard a camel “cry out before he was pounds upwards, a really valuable one, though hurt,” and emit the sound that is supposed to of course not one of the highest price, being to be the symptom of being over-loaded, whilst the be had for three or four pounds. The Turkey load, though bound on to the saddle on his back, carpets were of all prices, and varied in pro- still resis its weight on the ground on either side portion to texture, colouring, and size. Our of its kneeling body. Some animals—obstinate purchases were confined principally, if not all and ill-tempered ones, I suppose-begin to murtogether, to the Persian rugs, which not only mur from the moment that the process of loading wear for ever, but were no higher in price than has commenced, and long ere any weight can their imitations would have been in England. have been felt. The trade of Smyrna with the The purchase of these wares will naturally lead interior is so extensive and varied, that caravans the visitor to the inspection of the great rendez- are constantly arriving or departing, some carry vous of the caravans. Here, in an inclosed carpets and rugs in huge bales slung one space, with a fountain in the centre, may be seen on either side of the rude camel-saddle. Others to arrive troops of camels bearing bales of rich carry packages, sacks, and even boxes. The merchandize from the interior. The fact that principal articles thus conveyed to Smyrna, and Mahomet was a camel-driver must, of necessity, thence exported to Europe, are cotton, guns, invest with a momentary interest the first camel drugs, opium, oil, wax, goats, wool, skins, Perdriver that a European sees pursuing his calling sian rugs and carpets. Smyrna bas also a in the east. The western traveller will, however, large and exclusive export trade in figs ; and as be doomed to disappointment, if he expects to we saw these fruits undergoing the process of find an appearance above the ordinary Arab in packing, it may not be out of place to say a few the man he now sees in charge of a long string words thereof. The Sinyrna market is the only of camels arriving to unload. Without any one, that I am aware of, that is supplied with inclination to lecture upon natural history in figs from the country so early as September. general, or that of the camel in particular, I | The packing of these in boxes gives considerable must say, that few more striking or essentially employment not only to men but to women also. eastern sights can be fancied than that presented The figs are brought in in camel loads, and by a long string of camels, all laden with the deposited on the floors of the receiving stores. products and manufactures of Persia, and all the women now take them in hand, and pull marching in single file along a sandy road. Nor them, or, rather work them into shape, after is the picture less effective when the caravan which they are taken in baskets to the men. arrives at a resting-place; or, as is the case at The men sit ready to receive these trays or Smyrna, at its destination. The great hulking baskets of figs, which they afterwards pack into frames soon begin to sink down, one by one, to “ drums." The last-named proceeding is of a kneeling position : this movement is due such a nature as to effectually prevent anyone partly to instinct and partly to education. In who has seen its process from enjoying the he former case, the desire of ease suggests the eating of dried figs for ever afterwards. The

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