tween his opponent and the ball so as to obstruct him, nor cross him from the left so as to foul him, nor in any way interpose his person so as to obstruct him. In the event of a player crossing from the left and touching the ball before touching his opponent, it shall not be considered a foul.

The goal keeper shall be allowed to kick the ball (except in the case of a penalty bully) so long as it is within the striking circle. No left-handed play shall be allowed. A ball touching an umpire is not dead and does not stop the

game.

RULE 14. When a player strikes at the ball, his stick must not during any portion of the stroke rise above his shoulder. The umpire shall rigidly enforce this rule without waiting for an appeal. No player may interfere in any way with the game unless his stick be in his hand.

RULE 15. On the occasion of a free hit, no other player than the striker shall be within 5 yards of the spot where such hit is made, and the striker must not touch the ball again until it has touched or been hit by another player. If the striker hit at but miss the ball, the stroke shall be taken again.

RULE 16. The penalty for any breach of Rules 12, 13, 14, and 15, committed outside of the striking circles, shall be a "free hit" by one of the opposite side on the spot where the breach occurred. For any breach of Rules 12, 13, 14, and 15 by the attacking side, committed inside the striking circle, a "free hit" may be claimed by the defending side. For any breach of Rules 12, 14, and 15 by the defending side inside the striking circle, the attacking side can only claim a bully. No claim for any breach of rules by the defaulting side to be allowed. RULE 17. For any breach of Rules 13 and 14, except so far as Rule 14 applies to "sticks," committed by the defending side inside the striking circle the attacking side may claim a "penalty bully" (from which a goal may be scored direct) to be between the offender and one player selected by the other side, and to take place at the spot where the breach occurs. At the time of the "penalty bully" both the defending and attacking sides to be outside the striking circle, and the ball shall not be in play for either side until driven outside the striking circle, when all players shall be "on side." A "penalty bully" is awarded at the discretion of the umpire in whose half the breach occurred.

RULE 18. For any breach of Rule 17 by the defending side, the attacking side shall be awarded a penalty goal, and for any breach by the attacking side the defenders shall be allowed a free hit.

RULE 19. When the ball passes over the "side line," it shall be rolled in along the ground from where it crossed the line by one of the opposite side to that of the player who last touched it, in any direction except forward. No other player shall stand within 5 yards of the side line. The ball may be rolled in at once, but should the umpire be of the opinion that a player of the opposite side is standing within the 5-yard line to gain time, he shall not call the ball back. The player who rolls it in must stand with both feet behind the side line, and must not touch the ball again until it has touched or been hit by another player. RULE 20. When a breach of Rules 9, 10, or 19 occurs, the umpire shall sound the whistle without waiting for an appeal to be made, and direct that the bully or roll in from touch take place again, except as especially provided for in Rule 19. But if the breach of Rule 19 be by the player who rolls the ball the roll in shall then be taken by one of the other side.

RULE 21.-If the ball is hit behind the goal line by the attacking side, it shall be brought out 25 yards in a direction at right angles to the goal line from the point where it crossed the line and there bullied. But if the ball glance off or is unintentionally, in the umpire's opinion, hit behind by any player of the defending side, a player of the attacking side shall have a free hit from the side or goal line within three feet of the nearest corner flag. Such a hit to be called "A Corner." At the time of the corner all the defending side must be behind their goal line, and all the attacking side must be outside the striking circle. No goal can be scored from such a hit until the ball has been stopped dead by one of the attacking side or previously touched the person or the stick of the defending side. If, however, the ball is wilfully, in the umpire's opinion, hit behind the goal line by one of the defending side, the attacking side shall take a free hit from the point on the goal line where the ball crossed and all players must be respectively behind the goal line and striking circle, but no player shall stand within 5 yards of the striker. No free hit to be taken at a less distance than 5 yards from the goal. The ball from such a hit must be stopped dead or touched by one of the defending side before a goal can be scored.

RULE 22. Each umpire shall give decisions in his half of the field only, but taking the whole of one side line. The field to be divided by a line, at right angles to the side lines, through the centre of the ground. The two umpires shall not cross over at half time. Should there be no umpire or umpires appointed by the two captains, the captains shall be arbitrators in all disputes.

RULE 23.-For rough play the umpire shall have discretionary power to warn the offending player, and if the offence be repeated to suspend him from further participation in the game.

RULE 24. When a player is temporarily incapacitated the umpire shall suspend the game immediately. When the game is resumed the ball shall be bullied off on the spot where, in the opinion of the umpire, the ball was when the player was hurt.

RULE 25.-The game shall be played for one hour and ten minutes, half time

being called after thirty-five minutes.

shall be recorded as a match.

No match is won unless played full time or

College and school matches may be played in thirty-minute halves, but if so must be recorded as "Sixty-minute matches."

HORSEMANSHIP; RIDING AND DRIVING.

"Do you know how to drive?"

"Sure I do. Wasn't it I that upset your honor in a ditch two years ago?" HORSEBACK RIDING.

Mounting.

The rider, even at the earliest age, should at first examine the girths and the bridle, and see if they are properly adjusted. The rider stands at the shoulder of the pony with his left side toward that part. He then lays hold of the reins with his left hand, drawing them up so short as to feel the mouth, and at the same time twisting a lock of the mane in his fingers so as to steady the hand. Next the left foot is placed in the stirrup. At this moment a spring is given from the right foot, the right hand reaches the cantel of the saddle, and the body is raised till the right leg is brought up to the level of the left, when the slightest imaginable pause is made, and then the right leg is thrown over the back of the pony, while the right hand leaves its hold, and the body falls into its position in the centre of the saddle; after which, the right foot has only to be placed in the stirrup to complete the act of mounting.

Dismounting

Is exactly the reverse of the last process, and requires, first, the reins to be shortened and held in the left hand with a lock of the mane; secondly, the right leg is taken out of the stirrup, and is thrown over the back of the horse until it is brought down to the level of the other leg. After this, if the pony is of a small size, suitable to that of the rider, the body is gently lowered to the ground, and the left leg is liberated from the stirrup; but if the horse is too high for this, the foot is taken out of the stirrup by raising the body by means of the hands on the pommel and cantel of the saddle, and then the body is lowered to the ground by their assistance.

The Management of the Reins

Is of great importance to the comfort of the rider, and also to his appearance, for unless they are held properly, the body is sure to be awkwardly balanced. When the single rein is used, the best position is to place the middle, ring, and little fingers between the two reins, and then to turn both over the forefinger where they are tightly held by the thumb. In all cases the thumb ought to point towards the horse's ears, by which the elbow is sure to be kept in its place close to the side, and a good command of the reins is insured. If a double-reined bridle is employed, the middle finger separates the two snaffle reins, and the little one those attached to the curb, all being turned over the forefinger, and firmly held by the thumb. In both cases the ends of the reins are turned over the left, or near side of the pony's shoulder. When it is intended to turn the horse to the left, it is only necessary to raise the thumb toward the chest of the rider; and, on the contrary, when the desire is to turn him to the right, the little finger is turned downward and backward toward the fork. In many well-broken ponies the mere moving of the whole hand to the right or left is sufficient, which, by pressing the reins against the neck, indicates the wish of the rider, and is promptly responded to by the handy pony.

The Seat

Should always be square to the front, without either shoulder being in advance; the loins moderately arched inward, without stiffness; the elbows close to the side, but held easily; the knees placed upon the padded part of the flap in front of the stirrup leathers; toes turned very slightly outward, and the foot resting on the stirrup, the inside of which should be opposite the ball of the great toe, and the outside corresponding with the little toe. The heel should be well lowered, as far as possible beneath the level of the toe, which gives a firm seat. But the great point is to obtain a good grasp of the saddle by the knees, which should be always ready to lay hold like a vise, without constantly tiring the muscles. The left hand is now to be held very slightly above the pommel of the saddle, and the right easily by the side of it, with the whip held in a slanting position.

The Control of the Horse

Is effected by the reins, heels, voice, and whip, variously used according to his disposition and temper. Some require only the most gentle usage, which, in fact, is almost always the most efficacious, especially by young people, for whom

the horse and dog seem to have an especial affection, and to be always more ready to obey them than might be expected, when their want of strength to enforce their wishes is considered. The young rider will therefore generally find it to his own interest, as well as that of the noble animal he bestrides, to use his whip and heel as little as possible, and to effect his object solely by his voice and the gentle pressure of the bit. In this way the most highcouraged horses are kept in order by young lads in the racing stables, and the amateur will do well to follow their example. It is astonishing how fond horses and dogs are of being talked to by their juvenile riders, and it is right to gratify their love of society by so doing on all occasions. The reins serve, as already explained, to turn to the right or left, or by drawing tight to stop the horse, and, on the contrary, by relaxing them to cause him to proceed, aided if necessary by the voice, heel, or whip. When it is desired that the right leg should lead in the canter or gallop, the left rein is pulled, and the left leg pressed against the flank, by which means the body of the pony is made to present the right side obliquely forward, and by consequence the right leg leads off. On the other hand, if it is wished to lead with the left leg, or to change from the right, the right rein is pulled, the right leg pressed to the side, and then the left shoulder looks forward and the left leg leads off. DRIVING.

Putting To.

Before driving, it is necessary that the horse or pony should be "put to," which is effected as follows: First, slip the shafts through the tugs, or, if there are hooks, drop them down into them, second, put the traces onto the drawingbar, either hooking them on, or else slipping them on to the eyes, and being careful to place the leather stops in these to prevent the trace coming off; third, buckle the belly-band sufficiently tight; and fourth, buckle the kicking-strap, or breeching, if either is used. After this, the reins are taken from the terets, where

they were previously placed, and the horse is ready.

Directions for Driving.

In driving, the reins are held sufficiently from the mode described as used in riding, the forefinger being first placed between them, and then both the reins are grasped by all the other fingers, and the near side rein is also held firmly against the forefinger by means of the thumb. In this way, on an emergency, the near or left rein may be pulled by itself, by holding it firmly with the thumb, and suffering the other, or off rein, to slip through the fingers, or vice versa.

Whilst turning, or when driving a high-couraged horse, and in critical situtions generally, the right hand must be at all times called to the assistance of the left; thus, the reins being grasped as before stated, you pass the second and third fingers between them, and loosening your hold on the off rein a little, let the right hand have complete command of its guidance, still, however, firmly holding both reins in your left; this position gives you great power over your

horse.

Starting.

Holding your reins with both hands, start your horse either by your voice or by the reins, gently feeling his mouth, but neither pulling at it nor jerking the reins. Many high-couraged horses have been made balkers by the stupidity of a driver. If a young horse's mouth is hurt by the driver checking him every time he starts, he will be sure to incur some vice; the habit of rearing, or of balking, will most probably be the result. The learner may say, "Supposing, however, he refuses to start, what then is to be done?" We reply, have patience; let the groom lead him off, caress him, speak quietly, and encourage him to proceed, and if he presses on one side, as if he wanted to go round, turn him round, if there be room, and as soon as he has his head the right way, give him his liberty, and by the voice or whip urge him to proceed. Much must here be left to the judgment; a touch with the whip in such circumstances would make some horses jib, while it would immediately start others; some it would be advisable to urge only with the voice, and to have a person to push the buggy on, so that the collar should scarcely touch the shoulder in starting. Supposing there is not room for the horse to turn, and he persist in his attempt to do so, we have always found it best in such a case to desire the groom to let his head alone, and to go to the side toward which the horse is inclined to turn, and then push against the extreme end of the shaft; if he does this, speaking quietly to him all the time, forty-nine horses out of fifty, that are not irreclaimable balkers, will after a short struggle proceed. The sooner you get rid of a confirmed jibber the better; no quality he can possess would repay you for the trouble the vice occasions; which is besides always a dangerous one.

The Road.

Having started your horse, keep your eyes open, looking well before you, not merely for the purpose of avoiding other carriages, but looking up the road, and on each side of it, so as to notice if there be any impediment to your horse's progress; any loose stones which he might tread upon, and thereby be thrown down; any sudden risings or fallings in the road, or any object which might frighten him. Always keep your horse well in hand, that is, feel his

mouth; if you do not you are never prepared for emergencies; if he stumbles, you cannot help him to recover his legs; if he starts, you cannot check him. But in keeping him in hand, as it is called, you may still fall into error, for if the horse be very light in the mouth there is a probability that an inexperienced person may so check him, as not only to impede his progress, but to put him out of temper; and as nothing is more difficult for a novice to manage than a very light-mouthed horse, when he once takes it in his head to have his own way, you must be careful merely to feel his mouth so as to have the reins at command, but still not sufficiently tight to check him. This is called driving with a light hand, and indeed is the perfection of driving, when it has become so habitual as to have assumed the character of "a style." Young drivers, in attempting this, will frequently allow their horse to run from one side of the road to the other; or, if their peregrinations do not embrace the whole of the road, they allow their horse (in fact make him) to sidle about in such a manner, that if they were to look at the track of their wheels, they would be astonished at what they had been doing. This must be avoided; as nothing is so ungraceful as to see a carriage yawing from side to side. A little thought will, moreover, convince you how much unnecessary ground you have gone over by this practice. Holding in hand sometimes produces another bad practice, particularly if your horse's mouth is not delicate; it gets him into the habit of hanging in your arms, and boring continually upon the bit, until his mouth becomes so callous, that if he stumbles he must come down. unless you can hold him up by main strength-a feat only to be achieved by a young Hercules. This may be avoided sometimes by keeping the bit moving in his mouth, but more frequently by not unnecessarily pulling at the rein; many a horse has become an arrant bore from this practice. If the reins are held with both hands, as before directed, you will have much more command of them, and a little attention will prevent these inconveniences.

DIFFICULT SITUATIONS FOR YOUNG DRIVERS.

Tusking the Bit, and Running Away. Some ill-tempered horses will become violent upon being in any manner put out of their way-such, for instance, as being suddenly stopped two or three times within a short distance, or receiving a sudden cut with the whip; but instead of exhibiting this violence by rearing or kicking, they will seize the bit in their mouths, close against the tusk, and run violently to one side of the road, as if with the intention of landing you in a ditch, or giving you a resting-place in a shop window. Your best mode is to stop them at once by a quiet pull, speaking softly, as if nothing were the matter; and then coax them into good-temper until you get home, when we will presently explain to you how to prevent the like again. If this cannot be done, give them the head for a moment (a short one it must be), and after bestowing a violent switch across the ears, snatch the reins suddenly toward the side to which the horse is boring, which will probably, from the surprise, disengage the bit, and enable you almost simultaneously either to pull him up, or draw him away from the danger. You will observe we have said on the side to which he is pressing, for it would be all but impossible to draw him to the other; for such a brute always seizes the bit by the branch or side which is next to the place he is running to, knowing, or rather thinking, you will pull the other rein, in which case the side of the face would aid him in resisting your efforts. The remedy for this is a ring bit, for it has no branches for the horse to get hold of, and if he merely seizes that part of the bit which is in his mouth, a sudden jerk will instantly disengage it, that is, if it be done with sufficient decision; but our experience teaches us, that in ninety-nine cases out of a hundred the horse will not attempt this; he misses the branches, and is disappointed and abashed at not being able to play the old trick.

Frequently, however, a horse tusks the bit, as it is called, with the view of bolting; if you cannot disengage the bit in the way directed, you have only to stop him as quickly as you can. Recollect, however, that a continual dead pull will never stop a runaway horse, unless indeed you have the strength of Hercules his mouth soon becomes callous to the action of the sharpest bit. Nor is it proper to keep jerking a horse under such circumstances, as that would rather urge him to increase his speed. The ordinary mode is to take the reins short in your hands, and then, by a sudden, steady movement of the body backward, exerting at the same time all the strength of the arms, endeavor to pull him up; this, repeated two or three times, will generally be effectual. Suppose it not to succeed, adopt the following plan, by which we have stopped many a determined bolter who had bid defiance to more than one reputed whip. Cross the reins in your hands, that is, place the right rein in the left hand, the left in the right hand, take them very short, and then suddenly put all your strength to them with a sudden jerk, but continue the pressure, violently sawing them at the same time; if this will not bring the horse to his haunches at the first attempt, let him partially have his head that is, sufficiently slacken your pull to give his mouth time to recover its feeling-and then repeat the effort. We never knew a horse that we could not stop by this method, which, though not very graceful, is very effective.

Stumbling and Slipping.-If your horse be kept well in hand, you will generally be able to keep him from absolutely coming down. You will naturally put more force to your pull upon his making the stumble, and this jerk, if suc

ceeded by a strong, continuous aid, generally keeps him on his legs; a smart stroke with the whip should follow, to remind him that his carelessness is not to be repeated. A horse that is apt to stumble, or even one that from his form is likely to stumble, should not only always be kept well in hand, but also be kept alive, by now and then being reminded, without actually punishing him, that his driver has a whip in his hand. A horse with his head set too forward, that is, low in the withers, is almost sure to come down sooner or later, particularly if his fore legs stand at all under him, as it is technically termed, that is, slanting a little inward. Stumbling, however, be it remembered, is totally distinct from slipping; the stone pavement will give the tyro plenty of opportunity to perceive the difference. If a horse slips, a sudden jerk will probably throw him down; in such a case the driver must aid the horse by a strong, steady hold, letting him, as it were, lean on the bit to help himself to stand. It requires some nerve thus to aid the horse, without being induced to jerk him by the suddenness of the slip.

Jibbing, or Balking.-Demosthenes, on being asked what was the soul of oratory, answered, "Action, action, action!" If we are asked what is the best mode to adopt with a jibber, we should say, "Patience, patience, patience!" This, however, must be qualified by the temper of the horse. Some balkers (but very few) may be started by sudden and severe whipping; ninety-nine times out of a hundred it will render a jibber restive, mischievous, or obstinate. Experience only can dictate the management of such animals. Some will start after waiting for a short time, having their head free; coaxing is generally the best means, and, as before said, have patience, and do not be in too great a hurry to start. Some may be started by being turned round, and others by being backed a short distance. Many think it a good plan to punish a jibber when he is once started; experience proves the contrary, for, depend upon it, he will recollect this next time, and will not fail further to exercise your patience, for fear of the flogging.

Kicking. An experienced eye can generally tell if a horse is likely to kick, and also when he is about to kick. We, however, always drive with a kickingstrap, and would recommend the practice. When a horse attempts to kick, you must hold him well in hand, and lay the whip well into him about the ears, rating him at the same time with a loud voice; this plan we have generally found effective. We would, however, recommend the young driver first to try the rating without the whipping; the voice frequently has a wonderful effect upon a horse. Be sure, however, to keep him well in hand.

Rearing.-Little can be done in harness with a determined rearer. When he tries to rear, if you have room give him a half turn, this will make him move his hind legs, and will consequently bring him down; you will find a series of turns punish and surprise him more than anything else. When you have once got him on the move, with his head right way, you can punish him with the whip, if he is one that you are sure you can manage; if not, you had better leave well alone. With respect to rearing in double harness, we will here observe, the best way to act is to push the other horse forward, and soothe the restive one, until you have fairly got him on; you can then punish or not, according to your judgment, but not without reference to your ability to manage the horses. Shying.-Before a horse starts at anything on the side of, or lying on the road, he usually gives some notice of his intention, by cocking his ears, and bending his head toward the object. As soon as the driver perceives these signs of uneasiness, he should be upon his guard to prevent a sudden turn round, or flying to one side, which would evidently be dangerous; and not only on this account should he be attentive, but because each time the horse violently shies, the habit is in progress of being confirmed. As soon, therefore, as a horse accustomed to shy gives notice of uneasiness, he should be coaxed up to the object of his terror, so that he may perceive its harmlessness; let him deliberately stand and view it, and if he cannot be got to it, let it, if possible, be brought to him, and then replaced in its former position; thus let him be induced to go up to it by care and kindness before it is passed, and you will generally find that a repetition of this practice will greatly improve, if it do not cure him; but by no means flog or force him up to it-let him take his time. We are now, of course, speaking of a horse whose sight is perfect. Some horses shy from having an imperfect vision; in fact, because they are going blind, and the sight is affected; and we would, therefore, advise a young driver to have his horse's eyes examined (if he is unable to examine them himself), whenever this shying is violent after a few lessons of the nature before detailed. We do not mean to say that there are not horses so timid that they cannot be broken of this bad practice; but we do say that most horses may be, if taken in time, and also that nine out of ten of these animals owe their vice to bad breaking, or bad drivers.