the use of sulphur, I differ from them on the following grounds. In my early practice I used sulphur in common with other gardeners, but soon gave it up as a useless remedy against insects. Afterwards, I had some conversation with one of the Messrs. Loddiges, who strongly recommended, or rather the fumes of, it from the hot flues or pipes as certainly destructive for the red spider. This came from so good authority, that I gave it a fair trial; but in my anxiety to save the foliage on my vines, I went too far, not being content with simply following the plan just noticed, but foolishly went through the vinery with some sulphur on a hot shovel. I soon found my error, for many of the vine leaves were scorched, without any apparent injury to the insects. Indeed, the next day they were as lively as ever. I then put some of them to a stronger test, by placing a kidney bean plant, swarming with the red spider, under a hand-glass, and then filled it with sulphur smoke enough to stifle his Satanic Majesty himself. But when the scorched plant was put out in the sun, the insects appeared as if nothing had happened. Since then I have not used sulphur except for mildew, against which it may be of service if applied early. I say nothing of the great unpleasantness of entering a fine looking greenhouse or vinery impregnated with sulphur, however engaging be the plants. - JOHN WIGHTON.

TO CORRESPONDENTS.

We request that no one will write to the departmental writers of THE COTTAGE GARDENER. It gives them unjustifiable trouble and expense. All communications should be addressed "To the Editor of The Cottage Gardener, 2, Amen Corner, Paternoster Row, London." SELECT PLANTS FOR GREENHOUSE (J. S.).-You will see you have been attended to.

HEATHS FOR SITTING-ROOM (M.).-Of these mentioned a fortnight ago, try Willmorei, Linnæoides, and Ventricosa. Keep them as free from dust as possible. Give them as much air as you can by even setting them outside the window, when the air is mild and the temperature above 40°. If you keep good fires in your room in the evening, say a temperature of 60°, your heaths will be ruined unless you can manage to move them to a cooler place, returning them to the room before going to bed, when the fire has got exhausted.

MIMOSA PUDICA (Wrinkle).-This, if true, is properly a Brazilian annual; and, therefore, both its nature and its native locality would unfit it for living in your window over the winter. The Sensitiva is the sensi tive plant, which would stand in your window in the heat of summer, but would fade in such a position before winter.

YOUNG FUCHSIAS (Ibid).-These, if growing, should be kept in the large room where the Arnot's stove is. If kept in the frame, you must protect them from frost until their growth is finished; after that you may place them anywhere, secure from frost, until growth commences, when you must give them light either in your frame or the large room; the latter would cost you least trouble, if you ean give air when wanted.-Geraniums cut down and potted three months ago, and now in leaf. These will do well either in the frame, properly attended to with covering, &c., but will do as well kept near the windows in the large room, kept alike from being too hot and also from frost. See what Mr. Fish has said to-day and in late articles.-Plants for windows in winter, with nice leaves. What are better than myrtles and cut-leaved sweet-scented geraniums, some of which are blotched with white and some with yellow; some with a black dash along the middle, while many are perfectly green. We shall think more about it.

CHEAP GREENHOUSE PLANTS TO BLOOM IN WINTER (Kirkdale).— We will see what ean be done.

VARIOUS (J. W. T.).—1. Fuchsias and roses taken up now will not do much good if placed at once upon the shelves of a greenhouse. The fuchsias should be kept in the shade until fresh roots are formed, if preserving the present flowers is the object. The roses must be treated in a similar manner; but a cold pit would suit them best if you do not wish them to bloom until next season. More will be said of roses by and bye. 2. "Is it not a general rule that all plants after blooming in pots ought to be immediately laid aside for rest in a cooler temperature?" With many it is, not all ;-with many quite the reverse. 3. Greenhouse climbers have often been referred to. Those that remain the longest in bloom, we can hardly state without knowing the temperature you intend maintaining. Tropæolum pentaphyllum will flower from April to December; Tropæolum Lobbianum will flower all the winter; Passiflora cærulea, racemosa, and Ballotii, will bloom nine months out of the twelve; Mandevilla suaveolens the best part of the summer; Kennedya monophylla and Maryatta in winter and spring. But none of these will do for present planting, unless you obtain large plants. 4. Rose cuttings may yet be struck if kept in a gentle heat, and dry heat secured for the top to prevent damping.

VARIOUS (Arthur Loftus).—You will be attended to.

WORK ON BRITISH FERNS (J. S.).-Moore's Handbook of British Ferns will best suit you.

GOOSEBERRY TRELLIS (G. H. P.). Pray do not erect a gooseberry trellis without ensuring a good soil. The gooseberry likes a sandy loam, not, however, so sandy as to be "hungry." If your native staple is too clayey, you will find ample directions in back numbers of this work for the modes of correcting it. If you can introduce some turfy and mellow tained in it the better. There must be no stagnation of moisture; this material from old pastures, pray do; the more vegetable remains conwould prove fatal to the plan. As for the distance of the uprights, you may soon determine that-only fancy a couple of field iron hurdles leaned against each other. We would place the wire for training five inches apart. The bushes may be from five to seven feet apart in the lines. As for the fastening of the curtains, surely your blacksmith will furnish you hooks and rings or something equivalent. These are subordinate matters, and of so simple a character, that the veriest tyro may plan them by putting his head to work for two minutes.

VINERY AND GREENHOUSE (W. H. B.).—If your vines are or have been good bearers, we would cut them back progressively-main stem and all to the very wall-plate of the house at front. Then, supposing you have nine, cut three down now, three more the next autumn, and the last three the succeeding one. You will then not be thrown entirely out of grapes. You cannot ensure a regular crop of young shoots from old vines by cutting old spurs entirely away. If your vines are taken out, and you can command heat, why you can grow anything-Kidney beans, cucumbers, mushrooms, strawberries, &c.; but remember the heat requisite for some of these things would ruin the vines ultimately, for they require an annual rest. Your oranges and lemons, formerly in pots, are very likely starving in the midst of plenty; very likely turned out without crushing their balls, as bad gardeners do coniferous plants. First examine and see if the old ball is not dry. If so, pile sphagnum moss over it, and every time you go past them, for a week to come, pour a little water on the moss. A radical cure must be sought for in taking them up and transplanting, with a full knowledge of the cause of failure. Take care of some of your huge geranium bushes, or other exotics, to take the place of the aloes, &c, The achimenes family, grown strong in pans, are well adapted to endure shade. As to your bouquets, we have little doubt that Messrs. Beaton and Fish will, before long, give a chapter on this most important branch of fancy gardening.

GLADIOLI PLANTING (A Constant Reader).-Queen Victoria, gan

davensis, formosissimus, ramosus, psittacinus, and floribundus, need not be planted till the spring; Cardinalis and Bezantinus plant now. Try and get a cross between the Bezantinus and psittacinus. Bezantinus is the only one of the European ones which is at all likely to unite with the Africans. Try ramosus also with the pollen of Cardinalis. The country is full of crosses from the rest in your list.

WHOLESALE QUERIES (S. J.).-Your eighteen inches of good soil on a clay subsoil, we recommend to be drained well, and the evergreen, with most other trees and shrubs, will grow well. For lists, look back in our indexes, and watch what Mr. Beaton will say this winter. He is to commence about such things as you want now. You can also grow anything that can be grown in our climate, by our instructions only; but the ripening of grapes out of doors you must take upon your own head. You say you can get any quantity of chalk, and to this we reply we wish we could exchange situations with you. Loam eighteen inches deep, clay bottom, high, so as to be easily drained, and abundance of chalk at hand: a prince could require no more! and a gardener would be satisfied with half your advantages. You shall hear of walks shortly. To renovate your lawn, take off the coarse turf two inches thick if you can, and put in a heap for future composts, and that will in a few years pay for making a good lawn. Dig the ground, and sow with the grasses we have recom. mended next February and March, and pick out broad-leaved weeds. For the flower and pleasure-ground, drain three feet deep, and use large or two to three-inch pipes or tiles; and for the fruit-garden, at least four feet, &c. After covering the pipes or tiles three inches with the strongest of the clay, we would fill in the next foot with chalk in rough lumps, except where the drain lies under the walks; there we would use all chalk for filling up, after securing the pipes with a coat of strong clay. The reason for covering the drain first with clay, is to prevent chalk water encrusting the pipes. Now, after all this, let us hear of your success from time to time. We sometimes are astonished at seeing only one out of a hundred returning to give their fellow readers an account of the benefit derived from our careful advice.

TURNING BEES TO THE NORTH (Pedagogus rusticus).—In preference to moving the bees from a south to a north aspect, Mr. Payne would recommend the screen figured in Mr. Taylor's Bee-keeper's Manual, page 167, 4th edition. It will answer the same purpose; and if removed many of the bees, on a mild winter's day, will return to their old quarters and be lost. Mr. Payne is also very anxious to hear of the trial being made, in different localities, of placing a few stocks facing the north, where the sun never reaches them; not for the winter only, but for the whole year permanently. In Holland, we are told, the bees are generally so placed, and do remarkably well.

SMALL HIVES PREVENTING SWARMING (4 Pupil).-Mr. Payne has not had a swarm from any of his stocks for many years, where the small hives have been put on; but it must be remembered that simply putting on the small hive will not prevent swarming. The bees must be induced by guide-combs to work in it, and when having done so another small hive must be supplied between the one partially filled and the stock, and in some seasons even a third, before the upper one is ready to be taken.

FUCHSIAS (J. N.). We should be most happy to name the three fuchsias, but there are so many varieties of them, and such a sameness, too, among many, that it is quite impossible to be certain in the name from a single blossom, especially when become shrivelled as yours were before we saw them.

LEAF OF PLANT (J. P. Scott).-It is the leaf of Magnolia grandiflora. We shall be very glad to receive your mode of cultivating roses in pots; and no one will read it with more pleasure than Mr. Beaton, from whose mode you say it differs.

Low EVERGREEN SHRUBS (4 Parson's Wife).-You wish for the names of six or eight ornamental shrubs, evergreen or deciduous, which would not grow above three or four feet high, and thus never impede the view from the windows. The soil is gravel, the situation a vale, but yet, when the leaves are off the neighbouring trees, much exposed to the north winds. A small piece of water is close by, and the house rather shades the place from the sun. Of all the plants in our new Dictionary, the common evergreen Berberry will suit you best. Berberis aquifolia will grow and flower most beautifully in the poorest soil in the kingdom. If it stands the sea-breeze, and we should be very glad to know if it does, it would grow in pure sand banks, and keep the sand from shifting about. Rhododendrons would grow near the water, even in poor sandy earth; and so would Laurustinus and a few variegated Hollies; all of which would look better than deciduous things, which the shade of the trees might injure. As we are now old friends, you will not take it amiss if we say-few things well chosen for the wise, and long lists for the noodles.

GLADIOLI PLANTING (Rhodon).—You ask if it would be a good plan to place under, around, and above the bulbs-when planting gladioliabout two or three inches of cinder-ashes, to improve the drainage? The remedy would be worse than the disease. Instead of improving the drainage by making a hole in "retentive" soil, and putting a few inches of cinder-ashes in it-that would only draw water to the holes, not from them.

SEED OF MELILOTUS LEUCANTHUS (J. B. P.).—Send four postage stamps to J. H. Payne, Esq., Bury St. Edmunds, Suffolk, stating your address; he has kindly undertaken to supply you.

RANTING WIDOW (Ibid).—Our correspondent says, that he noticed in the Isle of Man a plant seven or eight feet high, bearing an abundance of pink flowers, and there called "The Ranting Widow." It is an excellent bee flower, and he wishes to know its botanical name. Can any of our readers enlighten us on this point, or send us a specimen ? We do not know such a name; and the only approach to it is Widow's wail (Cneorum tricoccum), better known as the Spurge Olive, and that has yellow flowers.

ANACAMPSEROS (J. H. P.).—We were quite correct in saying, "the whole genus of Anacampseros are either greenhouse or stove succulents." Your plant," perfectly hardy, and growing for seven years in an exposed situation," is not an Anacampseros, but it is Sedum populifolium, a species of Stonecrop.

FLOWER-GARDEN PLANTING (J. P.).—We cannot help you; for it is with extreme reluctance we advise, at any time, as to the planting of beds, and much more do we shrink from correcting the plans of others. If you refer to our indexes you will find Mr. Beaton's and other opinions, and by a little thought you can apply them to the case in question.

METROSIDEROS (E. P.).—The whole genus is comprised of greenhouse and stove shrubs, and must be treated accordingly. You do not name the species you have. It must, however, be housed immediately.

TRANSPLANTING Moss (D. A. P.).—Remove it without disturbing the roots, and plant it in a place resembling as nearly as possible that which it naturally inhabits. That which grows under trees must not be placed in open sun-light, but in the shade. By attending to these points that is, learning of nature-you will succeed. Can any of our readers describe minutely in what parts of Norfolk the Adder's Tongue and Moonwort Ferns can be found? Send us eight postage stamps, and we will endeavour to aid you.

DRAKES AND DUCKS (R, C.).-Four drakes are not too many to consort with sixteen ducks.

MICE (G. M. Hagley).—See what Mr. Barnes says to-day. Roses have green centres in your garden, very probably owing to their roots being too wet, as you suggest. Green centres are only the stamens and pistils converted to leaves-an excessive production of foliage, which, in some form, may be produced in all flowering plants if supplied with excessive moisture before the flower buds are fully developed. Excess of manure may, however, produce the same consequence.

HEADING-DOWN EVERGREENS (W. H. M.).—The best time for heading these down, "so as to leave nothing but bare stubs two feet long, in the hope that they will shoot again," is early spring, just before they begin growing.

RIGHT TO FALLEN LEAVES (Justice).-You have a plantation which overhangs the turnpike-road in the country, and you ask, "Do the leaves which fall from my trees belong to me, and have I a right to collect them, or do they belong to the person who buys the scrapings of the road?" We do not see how the scavenger can have any more right to the leaves from your trees than he can to any fruit or wood which may fall from them.

GLADIOLI (F. G.).—Amphion—ground colour purple crimson, white blotch with purple rays; 1 ft. Clotilde-ground colour salmon pink, each petal margined with white pale blotch, with deep purple rays; 1 ft. Elegantissima-ground colour salmon red, white blotch with deep crim

son rays; 14ft. Gloria mundi-ground colour bright searlet, light blotch with extended purple rays; 3 ft. Heloise-ground colour pale scarlet, pure white broad blotch with purple rays; 1 ft. Henriette-ground colour red, buff blotch with purple rays; 3 ft. Heroine-ground colour scarlet, white blotch with light purple margin; 2 ft. Fulgida-ground colour a dark shaded red, white blotch with light and dark crimson rays; 2 ft.; good. Iphegenie-ground colour reddish pink, pure white blotch with purple and crimson rays; 2 ft. Jenny Lind-ground colour red, white blotch with purple rays; 2 ft.; extra. Madame Sontag-ground colour pink, large creamy white blotch with no rays-the two side petals mottled with white; 2 ft. Princess Alice-ground colour rosy pink, blotch, a white line with crimson rays; flowers late in the season; 24 ft. Princess Royal-pale scarlet ground colour, light purple blotch with crimson rays-a beautiful variety; 2 ft. Purpurea-ground colour purplish pink, white blotch with crimson rays-fine; 2 ft. Triumphansground colour bright scarlet, long white blotch with plum and crimson rays-fine, and a good form; 1 ft. The above 15 varieties of this charming tribe were raised by the late lamented Rev. Dr. Herbert, Dean of Manchester. They were purchased at the sale of the Rev. Dr. H's bulbs, after his death, by Messrs. J. A. Henderson and Co.; and bloomed finely in the open air in the nursery at Pine-apple Place, in 1848 and 1849, and proved to be fine distinct varieties.

NAMES OF PLANTS (P. W. H).-The plant you sent is Liatris pycnostachya; and your plant under the name of Narthecium ensifolium is Dianella ensifolia. The other plant you have under the name of Arthopagan paniculatum, must be Arthropodium paniculatum. They are not different names for the same plant.

BLOTCHED CAMELLIA LEAVES (K. 0. T). The peculiar shaped markings upon the leaves appear to us as though the plants had stood out in the wet, where other wet leaves had fallen upon them, and the fallen leaves had retained a certain portion of moisture, and the sun shining upon them, the tender portions had become scorched. Whether this was so or not, they are sun-scorched in some way or other. Better ventilation carly in the morning, so as to get the upper surfaces dry hefore the sun was up on bright days, would have prevented it, we think. Pick off the blemished leaves, and you will probably have no more. Let us hear if you do.

GUINEA FOWLS (Ibid.).—It is only the hen that has the power of uttering their peculiar cry, so if both yours do this, no wonder you had no fertile eggs.

CIDER FROM TURNIP JUICE (A Recent Subscriber).-As cider is a term formerly applied to any fermented juice, the above is no Hibernicism. Our correspondent wishes to know if any of our other readers can inform him whether the white or yellow turnip is preferable for making cider, or for making the Champagne which is prepared from the same root's juice in one of the American States? We will give you shortly more than one recipe for brewing beer without malt. We know of no recent or probable edition of Macculloch on Wine Making.

PEAT (A Constant Subscriber).—That which you enclosed is only fit for fuel.

BOTTLING ALE (A Young Housekeeper).-It may be done at any time of the year, and always as soon as it has become clear or fine. Cork immediately.

KETSUP BECOME PUTRID (J. B. P.).-We should fear, from your account, that some of the mushrooms were poisonous. We should throw it away; it cannot be wholesome.

NAME OF PLANT (Langley).—Your plant is Eupatorium corymbosum. It is a freely flowering greenhouse plant, and if cramped in a pot all the summer, and shifted into a larger pot at the end of August and housed, it will flower all the winter and spring months. The Cottage Gardeners' Dictionary cannot be sent with THE COTTAGE GARDENER by post.

CHEAP GREENHOUSE (C. D.).-You have to-day what you ask for. NEWLY-ENCLOSED LAND (J. Fleet).-Tell us the situation and character of the soil and its subsoil, and we shall be happy to advise you. EXHIBITORS AT SHOWS (A Shacklewell Novice).-It is neither usual for exhibitors to accompany the judges whilst these are making their decisions, nor should they on any pretence whatever be allowed to do so.

ERRATA.-Page 36: "Cupressus torulosa and latifolius" should be, Cytisus racemosus and latifolius. Under "Rhododendron," the word "turf" should be "protection." For "Halosanthus," read Kalosanthus; and for "Roweii," read Boweii.

CALENDAR FOR NOVEMBER.

ORCHID HOUSE.

THE dark days of November are not injurious to orchids, provided they are kept dry and cool: that is, to a certain degree. Air need only be given when the sun is very powerful in the middle of the day, and then only in small quantities, just sufficient to keep down the thermometer to 70°. In dull weather the heat should not exceed 65°, even in the Indian house. In the Mexican house, 60° will be amply sufficient. If possible, no growth should take place during the month. As, however, some will grow even at this untoward season, they must have a small quantity of water given to them without wetting the leaves or young shoots. No shade is required at this time of the year. Some that are growing and have not been potted will require the peat renewing. Now, also, is a good time to renew the basket in which are growing Vandas, Aerides, Renantheras, Saccolabiums, and other Indian plants. Also, the

Stanhopeas that have done flowering, and the baskets are rotten or filled with roots, may now have new baskets, and fresh peat and moss applied. Several species will now have completed their growth, such, for instance, as Catesetums, Myanthus, Cyrtopodiums, &c., and should be placed in a cool house to rest, and no water given to them. The plants on blocks should still have occasional syringings, with a very fine syringe, just to keep them from shrinking. T. APPLEBY.

PLANT STOVE.

The great care to be taken during this month is to keep the air of the house dry and cool; 60° by day and 50° by night will be the maximum heat with sun in the day. FIRES will be necessary, both to keep up the heat and dry up damps. All decaying leaves must be removed instantly they are discovered, or the effluvia arising from their decomposition will be very injurious to the young leaves and the winter flowering species. CREEPERS should be pruned in, every leaf and stem sponged and tied up to the rafters, so as to admit the greatest quantity of light. All the tribe of Gesneras, excepting Gesnera zebrina, G. oblongata, G. picta, and Achimenes picta, should now be at rest, and put by in some place where neither frost nor cold can reach them. This is a good time, also, to destroy all kinds of insects, because every one destroyed now prevents a multitude of progeny in the spring. Where there is a bark-bed, it will be necessary to renew it early in the month by a considerable admixture of fresh bark, after removing all the decayed to make room for it. The renewal now will keep up a good steady heat all through the winter; care, however, must be taken not to plunge the plants up to the rim in the bed till the heat moderates, and there is no longer any danger of burning the roots. WATER must be given very sparingly at the roots only, and just enough to prevent the plants from flagging. All this keeping the heat down and the plants dry, is to induce a cessation of growth or rest, so as to enable the plants to start with vigour when there is more light, heat, and air, to cause strong healthy growth. T. APPLEBY.

FLORISTS' FLOWERS.

The great work to do this month is the planting of Tulips; choose a fine day, about the 10th of the month, for that operation. Plant them in rows, lengthwise of the bed; put the tallest growers in the central row, the next size on each side, and the lowest growers next the pathway; you will then have five rows in the bed, which is a convenient width to observe the beauties of each flower when in bloom. The rows should be six inches apart, and the bulbs in the rows from four to six inches, in proportion to their size and strength. They should be exactly two inches deep. When all are planted, level the soil neatly, and protect the bed from very heavy splashing showers. Gentle rains will be beneficial. All florist's flowers in pots, such as Auriculas and Polyanthuses, Carnations and Picotees, Pansies, Verbenas, &c., should be placed (if not already done) under glass. In fine weather, the glass should be drawn off every day; but if wet and cold prevail, give air only at the back by lifting up the lights. See to Dahlia roots, that they are not damp and covered with mould. If they are, place them in the sun till they are quite dry, and put them in some dry sand or sawdust. Pinks examine, and if the wire-worm prevail, stick some lettuce plants amongst them. The wire-worm prefers the lettuces to the pinks. WATER should only be given on fine sunny mornings to plants in pots, and only just sufficient to prevent flagging. T. APPLEBY.

GREENHOUSE.

AIR, admit rather freely in mild weather. AZALEAS, for blooming early, keep in the warmest end of the house, and they will not lose many of their leaves. Those for flowering in spring and early summer keep as cool as possible, so that the temperature is above 35°. BULBS, such as hyacinths, tulips, narcissus, &c., pot for spring flowering. CALCEOLARIAS, keep growing slowly, in an airy moist atmosphere; seedlings, pot off, and prick into pans. CAMELLIAS, finish setting in, and the late ones may have their buds thinned if necessary, CINERARIAS, encourage the forwardest to grow in a moist gentle heat; keep these for spring and summer just moving. CLIMBERS, however beautiful, cut back to give light to the other plants. CHRYSANTHEMUMS, remove incipient shoots from the axils of the leaves, on the main shoots; thin the buds where too thick; encourage with manure water; and, if not all in doors, have protection ready. DAMP STAGNANT AIR, avoid. FIRES, light in frosty and foggy weather, that air may be given; but give artificial heat during the day, rather than at night, unless the frost is very severe. FURNACES and FLUES, clean out previously. HEATHS and EPACRISES, keep in the airiest part. GENISTAS, CYTISUSES, CORONILLAS, &c., syringe in a sunny day, and aid with manure water, to cause the bloom to open strongly. GERANIUMS or PELARGONIUMS, encourage the old plants with a good position. Nip any luxuriant shoot, so as to equalise the strength; keep fresh potted ones just moving. PLANTS, keep clear from dirt and insects, by washing and fumigation. TEMPERATURE, keep from 40° to 45° at night. WATER only when necessary in dull weather: little will be wanted, unless plants swelling their flower buds: for these use water warmer than the air of the house. A slight dusting with the syringe over the foliage will be serviceable in a sunny morning. CLEAN pots, paths, stages; tie, train and fresh label in bad weather.

FLOWER-GARDEN.

R. FISH.

ANEMONES, plant for first or succession bloom. AURICULAS and POLYANTHUSES, put under shelter (See October). BULBOUS ROOTS, finish planting in dry weather; pot for latest forcing, and for plunging in flower beds, &c. CARNATION layers, finish planting and potting; secure the pot at once from rains. CLIMBERS of all sorts, plant, prune, and train. COMPOST, prepare and turn in dry weather. CROCUS, pot large lumps from the borders for forcing. HALF-HARDY bulbs in borders, secure from frost and rain by a boarded covering. DAHLIAS, cut down after frost, and let the roots remain as long as it is safe; when taken up, dry them in open sheds, &c., before storing, where frost and damp cannot reach them. DRESS the beds and borders, and put mark-sticks to bulbs and other roots, to guide you when digging. EDGINGS, plant.

EVERGREENS, finish planting, b. FIBROUS-ROOTED PLANTS, finish dividing and planting, b. FoRK over borders, &c. GLADIOLUS: all the old sorts may yet be planted; most of the new do better planted in spring. GRASS, cut very close the last time; keep clear of leaves; and roll. GRAVEL, weed and roll. HEDGES, plant, clip, and clear at bottom. HOE and rake shrubberies, and bury the leaves, &c., between the plants. HOLLYHOCKS, finish planting. LAYERING, perform generally. LEAVES, gather for compost, &c. MARVEL OF PERU, take up and store like dahlias. MULCH round trees and shrubs lately planted. PLANT perennials and biennials (see October). PLANTING, perform generally, and finish as early as practicable. POTTED PLANTS, for forcing, plunge in the earth of a well-sheltered border facing the sun. PRUNE shrubs and trees generally. RANUNCULUSES, plant for earliest bloom. Seedlings of them, in boxes, &c., remove to a warm situation. WEAK ROSES, prune without delay; very strong ones, delay pruning till March; tender ones, secure from frost with moss, fern, &c. SHRUBS of all kinds, plant, stake, and mulch. SUCKERS, from roses and other shrubs, sepa rate and plant. TIGRIDIAS, save from frost as long as possible; should not be dried till January or February. TULIPS, finish planting, b. D. BEATON.

FORCING DEPARTMENT.

AIR, admit as freely as the season allows. BARK-BEDS, renew or turn over, to keep up the required bottom heat. CUCUMBERS, maintain a lively heat too by renewed linings; if in houses, secure plenty of atmospheric moisture. DRESS borders, and keep a dry porous surface. FIRE HEAT, by whatever means it may be distributed, must now be daily employed, to keep the temperature from 55° to 60°, with an advance in sunshine of 10°. LEAVES, keep clean with sponge, &c., and remove decayed ones. PINES (fruiters) require a temperature of 70° to 80°, sink. ing to 65° at night; in dung-pits, keep airy and dry. PROTECT outside borders, in which forcing trees are planted, from rains and frost. PEACH, prune; wash with diluted ammonia water from the gas-works before training. TOBACCO FUMIGATION, employ, if insects appear. VINES, strip the old bark off, and clean, as the peach, before commencing to force; begin with a day temperature of 50°. LATE GRAPES, keep dry by fire and ventilating freely. WATER (tepid), apply with the syringe on clear afternoons. SULPHUR, apply where Red spider exists. R. ERRINGTON.

ORCHARD,

PLANTING of all kinds carry out. STAKE newly-planted trees for fear of wind. MULCH newly-planted trees as soon as planted. PRUNING, commence. CURRANTS and GOOSEBERRIES, prune, b. APPLES, prune, m. PLUMS and CHERRIES, prune, m. LARGE ORCHARD-TREES, prune, RASPBERRIES, prune and dress, e. FIGS, pull off all young fruit as large as a horse-bean, b.; protect from frost, m. NECTARINES and APRICOTS, clear away the remaining leaves from, m. NAILS and shreds, draw out superfluous or rotten ones from all wall trees, m; pick and prepare them for renailing. SUCKERS, clear away from all fruit-trees, m.

e.

VINES, prune, m. ESPALIERS, prune, m. MULBERRIES, plant, b. MEDLARS, plant, b. RASPBERRIES, plant, b. STRAWBERRIES, plant, b. STONES of fruits, sow, b. Apply Tor-DRESSINGS to all fruits in a weakly state as soon as they are pruned. Protect British Queen Strawberries, m. TOP-DRESS between old strawberry rows, b. TRENCH, or otherwise prepare ground for planting, b. WALNUTS, plant, b. FORK ground about fruit-trees slightly, b. R. ERRINGTON.

KITCHEN-GARDEN.

ARTICHOKES, winter dress. ASPARAGUS-BEDS, dress; attend to that in forcing, and plant in succession. BEANS, plant a good main crop toward the end of the month. BEET (Red), dig up for storing; leave, or plant out for seed. BROCOLI, lay down or remove to other warmer situations with good balls of earth; take care not to injure their leaves. CABBAGES, plant; plant out for seed. CARDOONS, earth up, b. CARROTS, dig up and store, b.; leave, or plant out for seed. CAULIFLOWERS, prick out in frames, &c., for winter protection, pay particular attention to airing in all fine weather, both hand-glass crops and otherwise. CELERY, earth up in dry afternoons, having the earth all forked up previously. COLEWORTS, plant. COMPOSTS, prepare. CUCUMBERS, attend to in forcing. DRAIN vacant ground. DUNG, prepare for hotbeds. EARTHING-UP, attend to. ENDIVE, blanch, and protect. GARLIC, plant, b. HERBARY, clean, &c. HORSERADISH, dig up and store. HOTBEDS, make for salading, &c. JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES, dig up and store, LEAVES, &c, continually clear away. LETTUCES, plant in frames; attend to those advancing. MINT, plant; force in hotbed. MUSHROOM-BEDS, make; attend to those in production. ONIONS, in store, look over; (Potato), plant. PARSLEY, plant some in a frame for use in snowy weather. PARSNIPS, dig up and store, b.; leave or plant out for seed. PEAS, of the best early kinds, may be sown toward the middle or end of the month. POTATOES, attend to those in store, or dig up, should any remain out. RHUBARB, clear away decayed leaves, and top-dress; also pot off any number of plants that may be required for early forcing, to bring into the forcing structure as wanted. RADISHES, sow, in hotbed. SALSAFY, dig up and store. SAVOYS, plant for seed, b. SCORZONERA, dig up and store. SEA-KALE, pay particular attention to the removing of all the decayed leaves, &c.; top-dressing, covering up with fermenting materials, or other modes of forcing. SEEDS, dress and store. SHALLOTS, plant, b. SMALL SALADING, sow; sow in hotbed. SPINACH, thin, earth-stir, and keep clear of decayed and fallen leaves. THINNING, attend to. TRENCH, ridge, &c., vacant ground. TURNIPS, attend to thinning out, or hoeing the late sown crops, and should the weather be inclined to set in very severe, any number of turnips that are full grown, may be taken up and stored for winter use. T. WEAVER.

LONDON: Printed by HARRY WOOLDRIDGE, Winchester High-street, in the Parish of Saint Mary Kalendar; and Published by WILLIAM SOMERVILLE ORR, at the Office, No. 2, Amen Corner, in the Parish of Christ Church, City of London.-October 31st, 1850.

THERE is a striking interest attached to the birth-place of the goodly great; not that one fancies for a moment that so much excellence must have been nestled in some luxuriant sunny nook of the earth, for all experience is against that, but because the imagination delights to picture the man as he was a boy in the scenes of his childhood, and to dwell upon the things which ministered to give him his first knowledge in life. "One naturally wishes," says Dr. Lettsom, "to be acquainted not only with the most interesting circumstances of his life and character, but even with those which may be trifling in themselves." Now, it so happened to a young medical friend, that when sailing among that cluster of the West Indian Archipelago called the Virgin Islands, that the anchor was dropped near one known as the Little Vandyke. But one goodly residence in a declivity facing the sea, embosomed in tropical vegetation, and with its white frontage smiling through it, was to be seen; and he learned, to his surprise and pleasure, that he was looking upon the birth-place of the justly celebrated physician whose words we have just quoted. Under a tropical sun, on that little dot of land in the world of waters, did JoHN COAKLEY LETTSOM first see the light on the 22nd of November, 1744-a month of memorable events in his career; for it was that on which he married; on the 1st of November, 1815, he died; and on the 7th, in the Friends' Burial Ground, Little Coleman-street, "earth to earth" closed his appearance in this world. If "the old wife's tale" of the seventh son being born to strange fortunes were correct, surely young Lettsom might have been augured to a life of twofold wonders, for seven times did his mother bear twins, all boys, and of the seventh pair he was one. When about six years old he was sent to England to be educated, without any settled plan for his after-life, but which was determined by his providentially landing at a port where Mr. Fothergill, a distinguished preacher among the Quakers, and brother of the celebrated physician of that name, happened to be visiting. By the advice of that excellent man, who watched like a parent over his future life, he was placed under the tuition of Mr. Thompson, uncle to the physician of the same name, and who was then his assistant in the school. Between these embryo men of medicine a friendship, never interrupted, was then commenced. Young Lettsom continued here, and under the care of Mr. Fothergill, until he selected the latter as his guardian, in consequence of his father's death. Mr. Fothergill accepted the responsible office, and placed him, with a view to his future profession, with Dr. Sutcliff, of Settle, in Yorkshire. After the usual period of medical pupilage he proceeded to London, and selected St. Thomas's Hospital as the medical school in which to complete his education. He was fond of poetry; had read "The Pleasures of Imagination" with delight, and looked forward with no small expectation to the gratification of being under its author, then one of the physicians to the Institution. Such expectations were doomed to utter disappointment,poets then as now are too often amiable only in their verses. He found Dr. Akenside the most supercilious and unfeeling physician that he had hitherto known. If the affrighted patients did not return a direct answer to his queries, he often discharged them from the hospital instantly. He, yes, the author of such poetry,- evinced a particular disgust to females, and generally treated them with harshness! Lettsom left this tutor, amiable only in "imagination," after a two years' pupilage, and now commenced his practical illustration-an illustration uniform throughout life of his favourite maxim, "Beneficence is the source of true happiness, and the occasions of exercising it are innumerable." He was obliged to return to his native island, to take possession of the estate which descended to him upon his brother's decease. He found there but little except a number of negro slaves, and these he emancipated. "I was now twenty-three years of age," said Dr. Lettsom, "and I found myself five hundred pounds worse than nothing." He devoted himself to the medical profession in the Island of Tortola; and here so strenuous were his exertions, and so extensive his practice, that in a short time he was enabled to return to Europe, and after visiting the great medical schools of Paris and Edinburgh, finally took his degree of Doctor of Medicine at Leyden, in 1769. In the same year he was admitted a Licentiate of our College of Physicians; and settled in London under the auspices of Dr. Fothergill. His progress into practice was rapid, and it soon exceeded in emolument that of his admirable patron. In 1783 his fees received amounted to £3600, and by the year 1800 they had increased to £12,000; whilst Dr. Fothergill's professional income never amounted to half the latter sum. This was a noble reward to the poor planter of Tortola, who

had emancipated his slaves though the act precipitated him into debt; a greater danger was that the fine linen and faring sumptuously might be his spiritual ruin, but he escaped this shipwreck also, and the increase of wealth only rendered him more zealous, because more powerful, in establishing institutions for the relief of the poor, mitigating disease, and assuaging pain. Few persons, says one of his friends, had so much power, and none more inclination, to serve their sick and sorrowing fellow-creatures as Dr. Lettsom. He seemed always to consider it as amongst the foremost of his duties to assuage the mind as well as relieve the person of his patient; and although his daily practice made it necessary that he should set a just value on time, he never hurried away from the invalid who, he believed, might be as much assisted by his physician's society as by his prescription; and his heart, not seldom, filled the hands of such as stood in need of his bounty as well as skill.

But we must turn to the facts which especially entitle this good man to our present notice; and it might be sufficient to state that he was an accomplished student of natural history and a great lover of gardening; but he also wrote upon these subjects several volumes, which we will notice in their chronological order. His Natural History of the Tea-tree grew to a goodly quarto volume, in 1772, from a mere inaugural thesis which he wrote, On the Virtues of Tea, to deliver when admitted to his doctor's degree three years previously. In 1774 he published The Naturalist's Companion, embracing very full particulars for collecting and preserving every description of specimens, whether animal, vegetable, or mineral. His Account of the Culture and Use of the Mangel Wurzel, or Root of Scarcity, appeared in 1787, and first roused attention to this most useful root. He was laughed at for urging its merits somewhat beyond their just title, but that it deserved nearly all his praise is now shown by its extensive cultivation. In 1796 he published Hints for promoting a Bee Society. It would have been a strange contradiction if he had not been an advocate of the depriving system; and he urges eloquently the benefits derivable from a central Society to promote the preservation and keeping of those "industrious labourers whose produce, when accepted by the hand of man, is pure gain." These are but a small section of his literary efforts, but his other works were chiefly in aid of charitable and professional objects. Nor did he only write of such subjects, but as Mr. Scott truly addressed him—

"Not only does thy pow'rful aid supply

Life to the languid form and fading eye;
Not only man's frail race thy skill befriends-
To vegetable life thy power extends;

Reared by thy hand each plant more beauteous grows,
Shoots more luxuriant, and more fragrant blows."

This horticultural skill was exhibited by him at his seat, Grove-hill, Camberwell, where he spent "such scanty store of moments" as he could pilfer from his professional occupations. The spot, whilst yet a youth, had attracted his attention, and the resolution he then formed, to become its purchaser, he succeeded in realising early in life. Those who know the spot need no comment from us; and we seem to feel that it partakes of the bathos to add that tradition describes it as occupying the ground of the gentleman who fell by the hand of his nephew, George Barnwell. It will not be without its use to record the sanatory habits of so excellent an authority, who lived to be seventy-one, and for twenty-six years was without a day's illness. He walked to see his patients for two or three hours daily, using his carriage for the remainder; he rarely exceeded three glasses of wine at his dinner; coffee was his favourite beverage; before going to rest he uniformly bathed his limbs in cold water, and in the morning similarly refreshed his entire body. The equability of his temper and the benevolence of his heart aided to promote his health; nor must it be omitted that his serenity was sustained by uniformly pursuing, yet without sectarian bigotry, that example set by Penn-one of the founders of his society-who considered as A FRIEND every truly Christian man,

METEOROLOGY OF THE WEEK.-From twenty-three years observations at Chiswick, it is found that there the average highest and lowest temperatures of these days are 51° and 36° respectively. The greatest heat, 63°, and the lowest cold, 22°, occurred on several days during the period. Rain fell on 83 days, and 78 days were fine.

So many have been the queries received by us, in consequence of Miss Martineau's letter on Cow-keeping, published in our last volume (page 334), that we are induced to answer them thus prominently; and though we refer to no one correspondent in particular, yet we think that each will find an answer to his queries if he reads what follows.

No. CX., VOL V.

Success in cow-keeping depends upon a strict attention to three essentials:-1st. Selecting a productive cow. 2ndly. Providing her with nutritious food; and 3rdly. Supplying that food to her judiciously.

Now, with regard to the first essential, which has been brought before us in a dozen different forms, it resolves itself into an answer to the plain query put by

one correspondent-"What kind of cow do you recommend?" To which we reply-a Jersey cow if you live in the south of England, or a North Wales if you live in the northern districts; but, let us add, that a North Wales cow will thrive well in our southern counties. These cows are below the ordinary size of the animal; and we know from many years' experience, that there is no reason for excepting the cow from the universal rulesize and food must keep pace. There is a prejudice that the Jersey (usually called the Alderney) cow requires better, that is, more nutritious food than any other cow; but this is a mere delusion, for, although the North Wales and other hardy breeds may endure cold and hard-living without suffering in health better than the Jersey, yet all are alike in one result-the better fed the fuller the pail.

Whatever kind of cow you may resolve to keep, buy a good one of that kind, for it costs no more to keep the best than it does to fodder the worst, and the few extra pounds paid to purchase her will be repaid from the dairy the first year. Now, there are some points of universal applicability, and to be attended to when you are about to purchase your moolly. 1. Parentage-whether the parent on each side were of a stock distinguished for good dairy qualities. 2. Head small, fine, tapering to the muzzle; eyes full and lively; horns smooth; and ears small. 3. Back straight from the shoulder to the tail. 4. Chest deep-rather deeper than the belly. 5. Hide thin, moderately loose, and covered with glossy smooth hair. 6. Barrel, or body, well ribbed up to the back-bone, and exhibiting a slightly flattened circular outline. 7. Tail long and fine. 8. Fore-legs straight, short, fine, and tapering from a full fleshy thigh to a small hoof. 9. Hind-legs short, hips broad, thighs fleshy, tapering like the fore-legs, and not to cross each other when walking. 10. Udder large, but not flabby, well up behind, with four large equally distant teats, and milk veins large and prominent.

swivel to a chain, which encircles her horns, closed by a ring and bar; the other end of the halter is fastened to a chain 6 or 8 feet long, which is connected by a swivel and ring to a stout iron stake a foot long; this is driven into the ground by a wooden mallet. The cow having this circular range of 12 feet or more, is compelled to eat it clean. She is usually moved thrice a day, and milked morning and evening; on many farms at mid-day also.

"Under this system, the writer has owned four cows that produced eight-and-forty pounds Jersey, or above 51 lbs. imperial weight, of rich yellow butter per week, in the month of May and part of June."

Now, to the correctness of these directions we can add | our own testimony, and that of many practical farmers. Let us also add as of first importance-the cow should have unlimited access to clean spring water,

As to the mode of supplying the food, we shall quote the practise of a party who obtained the largest returns ever given by a single cow.

Mr. Cramp was the keeper of the House of Correction at Lewes, and the average profit from his cow was more than £40 annually. He says:

"Summer season, fed on clover, rye-grass, lucern, and carrots, three or four times a day; and at noon-time about four gallons of grains, and two of bran, mixed together; always observing to give her no more food than she eats up clean. Winter season, fed with hay, bran, and grains, mixed as before stated, feeding her often, viz. five or six times a day, as I see proper, giving her food when milking; keeping the manger clean when she is fed with grains; not to let it get sour; wash her udder at milking times with cold water, winter and summer. Never tie her up; lays in or out as she Milch cows are often spoiled for want of patience at the latter likes; particularly careful to milk her regularly and clean. end of milking them.

"One man would attend ten cows through the year (with the exception of an assistant at milking times). Feeding milch cows as above stated, they will at all times be in good condition fit for the butcher, if an accident should happen. There will be no ground trampled and food spoiled by cattle running over a vast tract of land. I think cattie may be fattened by the same mode of feeding, with much advantage; one-fourth part of the land would feed them, a great quantity of manure made, and the beast fatten much sooner. Cattle so fed have nothing to do but fill themselves and lie down to rest. No labouring for their food. I fattened the two cows I had before this, and made them very good meat in about seven weeks (I found it to answer, although I bought the

plicitly to be relied upon.

Colonel Le Couteur says:

"The Jersey farmer treats his cow with gentleness and care; it might be more correct to say that his wife does so. On good farms she is usually housed at night after the end of October to the end of February, if heavy rain, hail, or snow prevail. It is deemed to be healthful to give a cow a short run daily through the winter, excepting in stormy weather. At this season, which is usually several degrees warmer than in the mildest part of Devonshire, she is fed with a certain portion of straw, from 10 lbs. to 20 lbs. of hay, with about 10 lbs. to 20 lbs. of parsnips, white carrots, turnips, or mangold-wurzel. The small portion of grass which she may pick up in the winter, with the above quantity of food, enable her to produce a rich and well-coloured sample of butter till within six weeks of parturition.

"Some of the early meadows produce rich grass in March; but the general flush of grass, which comes on generally late in April, is the period when the Jersey farmer looks forwards with anxiety.

"The cow is then tethered to the ground by means of a halter five or six feet long, this is appended by a ring and

*A good rule is that a cow to keep her in high health and production, requires four per cent. of her weight in food daily. Thus, if she weighs 1000 lbs., her daily allowance is 40 lbs.-ED. C. G.

oats mixed with the grains and bran. I think cows would nearly double (in the course of the season) their quantity of milk and butter, by following the above plan.

"It is unnecessary for a cow to go dry long before she calves. The thing will tell for itself. When her milk changes brackish, she should then be dried off; that may be, in three, four, or five weeks before she calves. Milch cows seldom go dry before, unless it is from neglect, poverty, sickness, or bad milking. Let the milk stand two days in summer, and three days in winter, before it is skimmed.

66

If grains cannot be had, there is no land but will produce potatoes, and they are an excellent substitute for grains, pounded in a trough, or ground in a common applemill, and then mixed with bran. Bran also would be a good substitute for grains, wetting it to the same state as grains, and then mix a little ground oats or malt-dust to separate it. Milch cows may be fed with turnips and cabbages, provided proper attention be paid in doing it. One meal a day of turnips or cabbages will not affect the milk, provided care be taken not to give them any rotten or withered leaves. One rotten turnip or cabbage would do more injury to milk and butter than a cartload of sweet sound food. I have often given cabbage to my cow without any ill effects whatever. I have sown rye, and tares, which I find to answer; they will September. One gallon of rye is sufficient to mix with a come rather sooner than lucern, if sown the first week in bushel of tares. If the rye be sown too thick, it will over