only remedy is to place a thick layer of moss all over the beds, and to water the beds well three or four times, from the middle of May to the end of July. We have seen a score of kinds of Pancratium, all with white flowers, but not one under fifteen inches high in the flower-stem. They are all stove plants, except P. maritimum, the one which grows on the northern shore of the Mediterranean.

IVY AND ROSES (A Subscriber and Admirer).-We once saw a cottage with all the walls quite covered with ivy, and the common China rose trained round all the windows and the two doors, with a plant of the white Cydonia japonica behind each scraper at one of the doors, and we never saw any other arrangement which looked half so rich. The roses and ivy were planted at the same time, and, therefore, had it all their own way for some years; but when the ivy reached the top, the roses were unfastened from the walls, except in two places, midway and at top, and tied to the ivy shoots here and there. Your roses planted after the ivy being established, will have a hard struggle for the first three years, because the roots of the ivy will be sure to suck the goodness from the new bed of soil, which, of course, you have made for the roses; and the only way to get them to agree, is to fork over the soil, once a month in summer, round the roses, and give them plenty of water. Old tea-boxes, in imitation of Mr. Beaton's tar-barrels, sunk among the ivy roots, and filled with good rich soil, and well watered in summer, would gain two or three years on your plan; it is so very difficult to get any plant to establish itself by the side of one already in possession.

GARDEN PLAN (M. S.).-We hardly know what you wish; but if it is only our opinion, it is this:-We do not altogether like the two beds of dahlias being close together, but the rest is so well done that there must be a reason for them-perhaps the colours and way of training. The other parts are extremely pretty and well arranged. The end figures, 1 and 2, come very near our own beds and arrangement for fancy geraniums; bed 5 in No. 1, Dark-purple heliotrope, and 9 in No. 2, we do not like so well, on the supposition that Voltaireanum is the heliotrope, which, with us, looks always as if frost bitten, and, therefore, uncomfortable; and, by all means, "one who has a right to be pleased" with No. 9, must not be otherwise dealt with for all the gardeners in England. Indeed, notwithstanding the great pleasure we derived from studying your plan, that about bed 9 and the centre roses pleased us the most. We suppose the heartseasc are removed in May to make edgings for the two crescent beds of standard roses; at any rate, pansies rooted late in the autumn, or in early spring, would flower well in these two beds all summer; we have had them so all this season.

LIST OF FRUIT-TREES FOR ESPALIERS (0. L. T., Sittingbourne).— Pears: Dunmore, Marie Louise, Beurré diel, Winter Neilis. Plums: Precoce de Tours, Orleans, Green Gage, Golden Drop. Apples: Kerry Pippin, Ribstone Pippin, Nonpareil, Lamb Abbey Pearmain. As you have not stated their purposes, we have recommended a succession of table fruit only. By limiting yourself to four pears, you disable us from scheming a complete succession. As to nurserymen, be sure to get them from one of long standing and of repute. Do not buy fruit-trees of little town gardeners. In shrubs, a man may judge by the eye; but in fruits, you must take the vendor's word. Your old pears being ordinary standards, and not worn out, you may graft all the good kinds you can on them-say Beurré diel, Marie Louise, Passe Colmar, Glout Morceaux, Aston Town, Swan's Egg, &c. Only put plenty of grafts on; when they bear, you can encourage which you please.

VINES AND CUCUMBERS (A Cheshire Rector).-If you must force cucumbers in January, and the roots of your vines are outside, it will be better, perhaps, to turn your vines out. We have known, however, very good crops without, by taking the precautions necessary. First, the vines to be pruned the moment the leaves begin to fall, and then tied close to the roof, interposing a mat or something to keep off solar excitement, and another to prevent the air around them from attaining too readily the temperature of the warm air of the house. Then, when the vines are to commence forcing, say in the beginning of February, place hot manure over their roots, and sustain a heat of 70° in their soil. As to pruning, let it be according to the character of the young wood, reserving plump eyes and cutting away that which is weakly or inferior.

DRESSING LAWNS (A Worcestershire Man).-Sand is a good dressing for any lawn, and so are fine coal-ashes, more particularly on heavy land, but neither will keep down worms, nor will any other substance in nature. All the doctoring about killing worms is nonsense-we might as well believe that we got rid of the rooks in one field by killing all of them with one lucky shot; but, like the worms, others will take their places in a very short time. However, as the worm does not fly like the rook, if any one were to kill all of them in one parish some parts of the land might be exempt from worms for a season or two-that is all. Brush down the worm casts now, and the frost will keep the creatures away till the return of fine spring weather. It is immaterial what quantity of sand or ashes you use, provided you do not smother the grass: the rains will soon wash the dressing into the roots of the grass, and cause a firm bottom. Like worms, sand improves lawns by helping to drain it. FLOWERING SHRUBS (J. H. N.).-Mr. Beaton will get through his lists of shrubs before the time for spring planting commences. We can add our testimony to the beauty of the Cratagus genus.

RANTING WIDOW.-Helena C. W. says: "The plant so called in the Isle of Man, and described by a correspondent in page 77, No. 109, is probably the Epilobium angustifolium, or French Willow Herb. It is of rambling growth, and from that circumstance may possibly have been called, by

some, the Rambling Willow, which in course of time may have degenerated, in some localities, into the somewhat odd name of Ranting Widow. If this conjecture be correet, no specimen can now be sent, as the plant is not only out of flower, but, at this season, dead down to the ground. An excellent representation of it may, however, be seen in Mrs. Loudon's book of "British Wild Flowers."

WINTER BLOOMING CARNATIONS.-Mr. Fish writes to add these to his list of flowers for winter bouquets. Propagated early in the spring and grown in rich loamy soil, they will come into bloom after Christmas, in the greeenhouse, without forcing. The Anne Boleyn Pink may be cut in the spring also without forcing.

PANSIES (J. L. Phelps).-Yours is a very fine specimen for the time of year. (F. L.).-Your seedling flower is very large, but crumpled; its purple ground colour and yellow eye are very usual. It will be a good border flower, but its crumpled petals will keep it from the exhibitionstand.

CAMPANULA CARPATICA (H. J.).—This is quite hardy; you will see what we said about it last week. All the verbenas you mention are halfhardy. Sown in February in gentle heat, they will bloom in the autumn of the same year. All the other plants have been described in late numbers, if you refer to our indexes.

FEEDING BEES IN AN OLD STRAW HIVE (Somerset).-Cut a hole in the centre of the top four inches in diameter; have a board to fit on this with a hole of the same size, which may be done with very little ingenuity, and put your bee food in the proper feeder on this board, and cover it over with another hive without any [entrance. Buy Payne's Apiarian's Guide; it is 3s 6d, we think. Where did "the green worm" attack your cabbages, at the stem or leaves?

FRUIT-TREE BORDERS (Philocarpus).-No worse practice could be in gardening than trenching these borders; and no crop more injurious than potatoes could be grown in them. One great object in fruit culture is to keep the roots of the trees near the surface, whereas deep digging destroys all within nine inches of it. As to Coal ashes for lawns, see what we have said to another correspondent. Soda will keep cream or milk from getting sour longer than saltpetre will, but we cannot say whether it would be any hindrance to the speedy production of butter. We believe that Mr. Roberts's Strawberry Tiles are registered, but he need not be afraid that any one will imitate them. We gave our opinion upon them at page 164 of our second volume, and that opinion has been fully confirmed. No man who is not mad will attempt to make Detonating Balls-the process is one of great danger.

DORKING FOWLS (E. B.).-Our correspondent wishes to know where she can obtain some genuine.

GREENHOUSE (J. B. Maxfield).—If you do not wish this to have the full power of the sun at noon, then build it as Mr. Appleby long since pointed out for his orchid-house, namely, facing the east; and its ends pointing north and south. Your other question next week.

COVER FOR BEE-HIVE (A Retired Tradesman).—The sized milk-pan we use for covering a Payne's Cottage Hive is 19 inches in diameter across the upper rim (or from three to four in your drawing), and 9 inches in diameter across the bottom-both inside measure. It rests on the edge of the hive; and no straw is put on the top of the hive in winter. There is never any fear of bees being injured by cold-hunger and damp are their worst enemies. Talc for making the bee trap can be bought in London of the dealers in minerals, such as Mawe and others. FRESHLY-MOVED LAURELS (H. E. A.).-Do not water these with soap-suds or any other liquid manure. You may mulch over their roots with advantage. Rhubarb needs no protection further than stirring the surface of the bed slightly, drawing off a little of the earth, putting on a little well decayed dung, and then returning the earth. By this means the crowns are slightly covered, but this is not absolutely needed.

NAMES OF PLANTS (Patria).-Your ferns are:-1. Asplenium trichomanes. 2. Blechnum boreale. 3. Polypodium vulgare. 4. Aspidium filix-mas. 5. Scolopendrium officinarum. (B. C.).-Your orangecoloured flower with small heads is Lantana crocea, the red and orange flower Gladiolus psittacinus, and the light blue flower is Plumbago capensis. (Young Gardener).—1. We believe to be the leaves of Thuja orientalis, the Chinese Arbor vitæ. The two broken leaves it is quite impossible to distinguish; send us a specimen in flower. (H. J.).-Yours is a double variety of Pyrethrum parthenium, or Common Pellitory.

CALENDAR FOR DECEMBER.

ORCHID HOUSE.

AIR: none is required excepting on very fine days, when the sun shines brightly, and the thermometer indicates more than the maximum heat required; care must be taken, also, that the external air, if frosty, does not blow directly upon the plants. INSECTS, such as mealy bug, scale, cockroaches, green fly, thrips, &c., to all of which these plants are liable, ought now to be diligently sought for and destroyed. POTTING should now be done with such as are growing. See former numbers of THE COTTAGE GARDENER for the method of performing this important operation. PLANTS (not orchids) suspended from the roof of the orchid house should now have fresh baskets and fresh compost. WATER must only be given to such plants as are growing. Phaius grandifolius (Large-leaved P.) will now be showing flowers, to bring them to perfection give free supplies of water. SYRINGE logs occasionally, on such mornings as are likely to be sunny.

T. APPLEBY.

PLANT STOVE.

The plants in this department should now be almost in a state of quietude. Excepting the winter blooming plants very little water is necessary, indeed, only just enough to keep the soil moderately moist. AIR will be required in moderate weather, giving it from ten in the morning to three in the afternoon. A few pots of each kind of Achimenes may now be potted to flower early. Choose a few of such Gesneras as show growth, pot them, and give a little water. Gloxinias may have the same treatment. Hedychiums should be repotted in fresh soil the last week in the month, placed in heat, and a little water given. INSECTS, destroy diligently. A portion of plants to force may now be brought into the stove to bring them on gently, such, for instance, as Kalmias, Rhododendrons, Lilacs, and Roses. FUMIGATE frequently with tobacco, to keep under the green fly and thrips. T. APPLEBY.

FLORISTS' FLOWERS.

AIR, give abundantly in fine weather to all plants in frames or pits. COVERINGS, apply to Carnations in frosty or heavy rainy weather, also both to plants in frames and to Tulip and Hyacinth beds. Gladioli, of sorts, may yet be planted. Hyacinths, shelter in severe weather; in pots, place in heat to bloom in February. Pansies, shelter from frost and heavy rains; such as are to bloom in pots put into 7-inch pots singly, and place under glass in a cold frame, water, pick off decaying leaves, and give abundance of air. Ranunculus bed, turn over, and shelter from heavy rains and snow. Roses may yet be planted successfully; those in pots for exhibition water with liquid manure; prune. WATER, give to all florists' flowers in pots about once during this month, some fine mild morning. Verbenas, shelter; such as are intended for exhibiting in pots give a shift into pots a size larger; towards the end of the month nip off the ends of each shoot to make them branch and become bushy.

GREENHOUSE.

T. APPLEBY.

AIR, admit freely when the external temperature is above 35°. BULBS, well rooted in pots, place in gentle heat for early blooming; keep mice from the successions; few things are better for this than chopped furze. CALCEOLARIAS, CINERARIAS, CAMELLIAS, &c., attend to with heat and moisture, according to the time you desire them to be in bloom; the two first will require frequent fumigating. CLIMBERS, prune them generally, to give light to the plants beneath them. Passion-flowers may be pruned close back to main shoots. Tecoma jasminoides will bloom best on longish, strongish shoots, the smaller, therefore, should be cut out. Train and clean winter-flowering ones, such as Kennedya Maryatta, and various Tropaeolums. EARTH in pots and borders keep fresh by stirring. GERANIUMS, encourage the forwardest, when early blooming is desirable, with plenty of air and a medium temperature of 45°, giving them plenty of room, and tying them out. HEATHS, keep cool, and give abundance of air in mild clear weather. HEAT, by fires, apply when necessary; use a little covering in severe weather in preference to making the fires strong. IXIAS, GLADIOLI, and the hardier LILIES, pot and set in a cold pit, to be protected from frost. INSECTS, keep under, by fumigating and scrubbing. LEAVES-dirty, wash; decayed, remove. MIGNONETTE, take in a few pots now and then. PRIMULA (Chinese), introduce; water with liquid manure when it shows the flower-bud; the double white give a favourable and warm position. ROSES, and other SHRUBS, introduce for forcing; commence at first with a top temperature of from 45° to 50°, if the bottom-heat is from 5° to 10° higher all the better. SALVIA SPLENDENS, supply liberally with water, and give it a warm corner. SUCCULENTS keep dry, and Cactus especially, except the Truncatus, which will now be in bloom-give it a warm position or the blooms will not open freely. WATER sparingly, unless when the flower-buds are swelling and opened; give it after breakfast, and with liquid rather higher than the temperature of the house. TEMPERATURE, 45° during the day, 40° at night, with from 5° to 10° more, at a warm end, or in a conservatory, for placing tenderer and forced flowers when first introduced, allowing in each case a rise of 10° or 15° for sun heat. In severe weather, prefer covering, even during the day, to large fires. R. FISH.

FLOWER-GARDEN.

ANEMONES, defend in bad weather; plant, if mild, for the last time till February. AURICULAS, defend in inclement weather. BULBS omitted, may be planted if the weather be mild. (See November.) CARNATIONS, defend in inclement weather. COMPOSTS, prepare. CROCUSES, take up and pot in lumps, to force in pots. DIG over borders, and dress all quarters generally. EDGINGS, plant. FIBROUS-ROOTED perennials and biennials, divide and plant. FLOWERS (choice), defend generally from inclement weather. GRASS, roll occasionally, if winter be mild. GRAVEL, roll and keep orderly. HAWTHORN, gather berries and bury in sand to sow next October. HEDGES, plant. HYACINTHS, defend in inclement weather. LEAVES, collect for compost. MULCH round the roots and stems of shrubs newly planted. PLANT shrubs of all kinds. POTTED PLANTS, protect in deep frames, &c.; place in hothouse for forcing. PRIVET, gather seeds of, and make young shoots into cuttings in bad weather, lay them in damp sand or soil, and set next February. PRUNE all shrubs requiring regulation. PRUNED ROSES, scrape bark and wash with lime and soot. RANUNCULUSES, defend in bad weather; plant, if mild. SEEDLINGS of all kinds require protection. STAKE shrubs newly planted, and any others requiring support. SUCKERS may be planted as removed during the winter dressing. TULIPS, defend in bad weather. TURF may be laid in open weather. UNCOVER protected plants, and if not dry place dry materials next them. WATER in glasses, change weekly; add a few grains of salt or five drops of spirit of hartshorn. Buy all your TREES and SHRUBS forthwith, and put them in ground preparatory for final planting in February. Think on the ICE HEAP, and let leaves be gathered to cover it. D. BEATON.

CUCUMBERS, in pots or boxes, introduce; water when dry, and train. FIGS (see VINES): they may be in pots in the Vinery. FIRES: beware of too much fire heat. See that all FRUIT-TREES IN POTS, OR TUBS, out-ofdoors, are well covered from frost. KIDNEY BEANS, Sow in small pots, not larger than 48's; water frequently when up. LIGHT, admit as freely as possible. MATS, put over glass in very severe weather, even in the day-time, if really necessary. MUSHROOMS, attend to the beds; water if dry; renew exhausted portions on shelves; they require a moist atmosphere and air on proper occasions. NECTARINES and PEACHES in blossom, keep at about 55° during the day, and at night about 40°; water very sparingly; shake branches gently to distribute the pollen; stir earth around often. PINE APPLES (fruiting) require increased bottomheat, to about 78°; water seldom; temperature in house from 60° to 70°; successions, ventilate freely and renew linings. STRAWBERRIES, in pots, introduce; when blossoming, water frequently; day temp. not more than 60°; keep them near the glass. THERMOMETER, watch carefully. VINES-in leaf, keep about 60°, in blossom, about 70°, during day; at night, 50°; protect stems outside by haybands; give liquid manure if dry. WATER, Soft, and warm as the house, apply as requisite; in pots, &c., keep constantly in the house. R. ERRINGTON.

ORCHARD.

ALMONDS, plant. APPLES (Espalier), prune, &c.; plant, &c. APEICOTS, plant; prune and train in frosty weather. BRINE, apply with a scrubbing-brush to stems and branches of fruit-trees, to destroy insects, eggs, and moss. CHERRIES (Wall and Espalier), prune and train; plant. CHESNUTS, plant. CURRANTS, prune; plant. CUTTINGS of Gooseberries and Currants may be planted. ESPALIERS, prune and regulate. FIGS, protect from frost. FILBERTS, plant. FORK the surface around fruit-trees. GOOSEBERRIES, plant; prune. LAYERS, plant. LOAM and COMPOST, obtain. MEDLARS, plant. MULBERRIES, plant. MULCH, put around newly planted trees. NECTARINES, plant; prune and train in frosty weather. PEACHES (See NECTARINES). PEARS, plant; (Espalier) prune, &c. PLUMS, plant; (Wall and Espalier), prune. ORDINARY PRUNING, attend to generally. QUINCES, plant. RASPBERRIES, plant; prune. SERVICES, plant. SNAILS, destroy in their torpid state. STAKE and support trees newly planted. STANDARDS, remove dead and irregular branches from. SUCKERS, plant. TRENCH and prepare borders, &c., for planting. VINES, plant, prune, and train. WALNUTS, plant. WALL-TREES generally, prune and regulate. WALLS, it is a very beneficial plan to paint these by means of a white-washer's brush, with a liquid mixture of 8lbs. lime, 4lbs. soot, and 6lbs. sulphur. It destroys and banishes insects, as well as by its dark colour promoting the warmth of the wall. The liquid employed in which to mix the above should be urine and soapsuds in equal proportions.

Any trees proposed to be regrafted in the spring may be headed down now, but the stumps of the branches should be left sufficiently long to permit a few inches more to be eut off at the time of grafting. R. ERRINGTON.

ARTICHOKES, dress.

KITCHEN-GARDEN.

ASPARAGUS-BEDS, dress, b.; plant to force. attend that in forcing. BEANS, plant a good main crop the first week in the month, if not done the last week in November. BEETS (Red), dig up and store, b. BORECOLES, full grown, may be taken up with good balls of earth, and planted in any nook or corner, or plot of ground of less value. BROCOLIS, treat the same, but lay in deeper, so as to earth up the stems well; lay them well with their heads towards the north. Thus moving these vegetables gives an opportunity to prepare the quarters they occupied for other important crops; they are thus better enabled to stand the severe weather that may be expected, and, being closer together, they are much more convenient for protection. CABBAGES, plant; earth up. CARDOONS, earth up. CARROTS, store the main crops if not done, and attend to those growing in frames, &c. CAULIFLOWERS, attend to airing in all favourable weather those in frames or under hand-glasses; remove all decayed leaves, and look after slugs. CELERY, earth up, and protect when necessary. COLEWORTS, plant. COMPOSTS, prepare and turn over. CUCUMBERS, attend to those bearing; sow seed towards the end of the month for plants to ridge out in the middle of January. DUNG, prepare for hotbeds. EARTHING-UP, attend to. ENDIVE, take up full grown on a dry day, and plant deep and close together at the foot of walls, or other warm dry corners convenient for protection in severe weather. HORSE-RADISH may be dealt with in the same way as directed for the Jerusalem Artichoke. HOTBEDS, attend to. JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES, give a good top covering of any rough mulching or garden-refuse, so as to keep out frost, and to enable them to be taken up when required; yet it is well to have a few of the roots stored in case of snow, or other rough weather, at the very time they are wanted. KIDNEY BEANS, force, e. LEAVES, fallen, remove. LETTUCES, attend to those advancing in frames on a gentle heat; see that no drip falls into the hearts of the plants, and give all the air the weather will permit to such as are planted in frames for winter protection only. LIQUORICE, dig up. MINT, force. MUSHROOM-BEDS, make; attend to those in production. PARSNIPS, dig up and store, b. PEAS, Sow in the open ground; attend to those advancing, protecting them from frost, mice, slugs, and birds. PLANTS to produce seed, attend to, b. POTATOES may be planted in light soils in open weather, and in hotbeds towards the end of the month; examine often the in-door stores. RADISHES and SMALL SALADING, sow in frames, &c. RHUBARB, take up and pot off for forcing, or cover up with pots or tubs and fermenting materials. SEA-KALE, cover up with fermenting materials; fallen leaves are the best material both for covering up the Sea-Kale and Rhubarb. SPINACH, keep clear of weeds and fallen and decayed leaves. TANSY, force. TARRAGON, force. TRENCH, drain, &c., vacant ground. WEEDING, attend to. T. WEAVER.

LONDON: Printed by HARRY WOOLDRIDGE, Winchester High-street, in the Parish of Saint Mary Kalendar; and Published by WILLIAM SOMERVILLE ORR, at the Office, No. 2, Amen Corner, in the Parish of Christ Church, City of London.-November, 28th, 1850.

LITTLE does the world know-little does it think of the sleep-robbed eyes and the aching brains-of the effort without relaxation, and of the mind without repose, on which, too often, that world is dependent for its daily, weekly, and monthly periodical literature. To live to write for the benefit of mankind is an enviable existence; but to write to live is one of the worst forms of the curse which bade man earn bread by the sweat of his brow. Let us try to unveil this truth by a sketch of the life of the late JOHN CLAUDIUS LOUDON, and let us at the same time bid our readers to learn from his example that difficulties apparently insurmountable are but as grass before the mower's scythe when grappled with firmly and perseveringly. He was born at Cambuslang, in Lanarkshire, on the 8th of April, 1783; and it is worthy of remark, that Dr. Claudius Buchanan was the son of Loudon's mother's only sister-so that from the mothers' side appears to have descended that indomitable energy so characteristic of these two eldest sons. Both mothers were left widows at an early age; and both were indebted to those sons for the means of rearing their larger than ordinary families. Loudon was a gardener even in childhood"his principal pleasure being then in making walks and beds in a little garden his father had given him;" and, fortunately, every encouragement was given to his taste, and every aid that could advance him on his selected course. He was sent to Edinburgh, and not only instructed in Latin-the language which placed the works of all botanists within his power-but he was well grounded in French and Italian-aids to continental intercourse-and he was also enrolled in the classes of Botany and Chemistry. Nor let it be supposed that, even at this early age, the spirit of independence, the firm resolve to obey the dictates of duty, did not manifest themselves. On the contrary, let it be told to his honour that he paid his masters out of the proceeds of the translations which he sold; and that when, at the age of fourteen, he was placed under a nurseryman and landscape gardener, he still continued to attend the university classes, and sat up two whole nights in every week, so that his hours of study might not be deducted from the more practical lessons available by day.' In 1803 he proceeded to London, and, young as he was, readily obtained employment as a landscape gardener. He at once evinced that he had no fear to restrain him from attacking practices which his better judgment told him had no other support than their antiquity; for finding the London squares had no more cheerful ornaments than the unvaryingly sombre yew and other "nevergreens," he published Observations on Laying Out the Public Squares of London, and heralded in the better taste which now characterizes the vegetation employed in them. Passing over some of his less important works, and his changes of residence | between London and Edinburgh, we find that "a mercy in disguise to his first passage upwards on the ladder of life. In 1806, being an outside passenger on a night-coach, exposed to the inclemency of the weather, and unwisely regardless of changing his wet clothes, he was seized with rheumatic fever, from the effects of which he never entirely recovered. Debilitated by its severe onset, he occupied lodgings at Pinner, near Harrow, hoping that fresh air and change of scene would promote the return of strength. He here had abundant opportunity for observing how inferior was then the agriculture of England to that of his native country; and he successfully urged upon his father the policy of renting a farm near London. Conjointly they occupied Wood Hall, and with such success, that the year following Loudon was justified in publishing a pamphlet, entitled, An Immediate and Effectual mode of Raising the Rental of the Landed Property in England. This naturally gained the attention of the landlords, and led to the author's introduction to General Stratton, and, in 1809, to his renting under this gentleman Tew Park, in Oxfordshire. In conjunction with an establishment for the education of agricultural pupils, he prosecuted farming so successfully, that in 1812 he had realized £15,000. To earn worthily and to retain wisely are mental qualities not always united, and Loudon is an example in point. He rashly gave up his farm, dismissed his pupils, invested his money, and set forth upon a continental tour. Pleasant pastime this, and not altogether unprofitable, for he gathered stores of knowledge, which his pen and pencil turned to good account in after years. But when he reached England in 1814 the time of flowers was passed, and the bitter fruit

"led

0.11

"The

appeared,―his investments had proved unsubstantial, his fortune was lost, and the harvest had again to be sown for. He was not the dastard who dares not face a difficulty, so he again addressed himself with energy to Landscape gardening. He now resolved to publish a comprehensive work on horticulture, and, it is said, visited France and Italy in 1819 for the purpose of completing his knowledge of the continental gardens. If this were his object, the result did not justify the outlay; for there is nothing in his Encyclopædia of Gardening that required for its procuring a continental trip. This work appeared in 1822, and is acknowledgedly the best compilation, mixed with much original information, that has ever been added to our gardening literature. The success of this work prompted him to undertake a series of Encyclopædias on Agriculture, Plants, and Architecture, the last of which appeared in 1832. labour," says Mrs. Loudon, "was immense; and for several months he and I used to sit up the greater part of every night, never having more than four hours sleep, and drinking strong coffee to keep ourselves awake." He then planned a new work, still more extensive and requiring still more labour-his Arboretum et Fruticetum Britannicum, embracing every particular relative to the trees and shrubs native or introduced into these islands. It appeared in 1838; and, publishing it at his own expense, he then found himself indebted about ten thousand pounds to his printer, paper-maker, and wood-engraver! During the time that these vast works were going on, he edited several periodicals. In 1826 he established the Gardener's Magazine, and continued it until his death. In 1826 he commenced his Magazine of Natural History, and edited it until in 1836 it passed into other hands. In 1834 he commenced the Architectural Magazine, discontinuing it in 1838; but in 1836 had begun publishing his Suburban Gardener; so that at one and the same time, in addition to the Arboretum, he edited four monthly publications, and to produce them with due regularity "he literally worked night and day."

These labours would appear excessive even for a man in perfect health and with the vigorous use of his limbs, but they almost exceed belief when the circumstances under which they were carried on are known. His first attack of rheumatic fever in 1806 was so severe as to produce permanent stiffness of the left knee. Subsequently his right arm became affected; and the attack was so severe that, the usual remedies having failed, he submitted to shampooing. During the process his arm was broken so close to the shoulder as to render setting it in the usual mode impossible. Shortly after the arm was again broken, and then, in 1826, amputation became unavoidable. In this year it will be noticed, he established the Gardener's Magazine, and entered upon that career of herculean mental effort we have detailed; nor was it carried on without a still further shattering of his frame, for now his left hand became so disabled that the use of only the third and little finger remained. Maimed and infirm of body, his mind yet retained its vigour unabated, and he had recourse to the employment of an amanuensis and draftsman. Thus did he give ground only inch by inch as death advanced; and when the day arrived when to him "time must be no more," death still found him labouring at his vocation, and "he died standing on his feet." Chronic inflammation of the lungs terminated his life on the 14th of December, 1843. The work on which he was employed at the time of his death is entitled, Self-instruction for Young Gardeners-a class deeply indebted to him, for he laboured sedulously and effectively to elevate them and to promote their interests. Let her who knew him best utter his requiem-"Never did any man possess more energy and determination; whatever he began he pursued with enthusiasm, and carried out, nothwithstanding obstacles that would have discouraged any ordinary person. He was a warm friend; most affectionate in all his relations of son, husband, father, and brother; and never hesitated to sacrifice pecuniary considerations to what he considered his duty."

METEOROLOGY OF THE WEEK.-At Chiswick, from observations during the last twenty-three years, it is found that the average highest and lowest temperatures of these days are 46.4° and 35.5°, respectively. The lowest cold observed was 14° on the 6th in 1844. During the period there were 83 fine days, and on 78 days rain fell.

MANY years since when lecturing upon the sciences applicable to the cultivation of plants, we remember a gentleman's gardener asking us to suggest anything that we thought would assist him in obtaining forced asparagus early in autumn, because his employer liked to have it all the year. We suggested that the plants, in a very narrow open-ground bed, should be allowed to send up their stems, and when they had done blooming, say at the beginning of September, that the stems should be cut down, and a trench all round filled with hot, fer

No. CXIV., VOL V.

menting dung. He adopted our suggestion with perfect success, and we thought no more about the matter, until a very clever gardener, the other day, sent us as a problem in gardening, difficult to be solved, "How can you easily obtain forced asparagus in October?" We replied as above, and he has, after acknowledging we were correct in principle, stated his own practice, which requires, as in the usual modes of forcing asparagus, that plants be raised annually for the purpose. He says, "There is much waste in forcing asparagus in the open ground

beds. The quantity of fermenting dung required is far greater than if the plants are taken up and put into a frame. Moreover, when once you have set the roots growing at the end of September, you must keep them growing all the winter and spring, otherwise they die or are spoiled; as is the fate with half the bulbs that are forced into a vegetating state. My practice is, about the middle of September, to cut down the stems of all the asparagus which is to be forced that season. The buds on the root-crowns immediately begin to grow, and require very little heat to force them into production until Christmas has arrived. All that is required is a hole in the ground filled with slightly-hot dung, covered over with a few inches of earth, and the roots to be planted thickly in this as for ordinary forcing them. A mat, or a few boards covered over the frame, just to exclude frost and inclement weather, is all the shelter required." Now, we mention this thus prominently, because it is an illustration of the useful suggestions science is capable of making to the practitioner. When the above question was put to us by the gardener in the lectureroom, we had never tried to produce asparagus in early autumn; but we knew it to be a law of vegetable nature that if a plant is cut down before it has completed its annual growth, and before the elaboration of the sap is finished, preparatory for the next year's development, then that plant makes an effort by the production of fresh leaves to complete the processes that had been interrupted by the premature cutting down. We inferred, therefore, that by cutting down the immature asparagus stems, their roots would make an effort to throw up fresh stems, and that advantage might be taken of this, and by promoting that effort asparagus for the table would be obtained in early autumn.

NEW PLANTS. THEIR PORTRAITS AND BIOGRAPHIES.

THE STANWICK NECTARINE.-Gardeners' Mag. of Botany, vol. ii., p. 129.-Lord Prudhoe, of Stanwick Park, who has since succeeded to the Dukedom of Northumberland, having received from our Vice-Consul at Aleppo, Mr. Barker, some nectarines and peaches

with sweet kernels, sowed some of their stones in the March of 1843, and from one of them was produced the parent tree of what is now known as the Stanwick Nectarine. Mr. Baillie, gardener to his Grace, says, “the tree on its own roots is a strong and robust grower, and continues to grow late in autumn, and has hitherto (1846) retained its leaves throughout the winter. I have no doubt, however, that when worked upon apricot, plum, or almond stocks, it will prove quite hardy, and bear well even in the north of England." (Hort. Soc. Journal, vol. i., p. 273.) The fruit of this nectarine is middle-sized, roundish oval, with a point opposite the stalk end; pale yellow skin, passing off to bright red at the end furthest from the stalk; flesh greenish white, slightly red next the stone, from which it separates freely. Ripe about the end of August or beginning of September in Yorkshire. Flowers large, pale pink; leaves round-saw-toothed, with two kidney-shaped glands at the base. (Gardeners' May. of Botany, p. 129.) Mr. Thompson, of the Chiswick Gardens, says the flesh is "exceedingly tender, juicy, rich, and sugary, without the slightest flavour of prussic acid. The kernel is sweet, like a nut, possessing nothing of the bitteralmond flavour." (Hort. Soc. Journal, p. 272.)

The Duke of Northumberland having munificently given buds from this nectarine to raise trees for sale, the proceeds to be given to the Gardeners' Benevolent Institution, and Mr. Rivers, in a similar good spirit, having raised those trees without charge for their propagation, we have thought it right to place these particulars before our readers; but we do no more. expressing any opinion upon the merits of the nectarine, we sincerely hope that both the Institution and the purchasers of the trees may be one and all benefited.

Without

And now for a few words relative to the whole race of nectarines, a fruit which we have always been told was unknown to the ancients, but from which opinion we dissent. Florentinus, one of the Geoponic writers who lived at the very commencement of the third century, tells us of a fruit, the barbilus, which was raised from the stone of the peach.

Theocritus speaks of this fruit as Horpeekes Brabylois; and Athenæus, in a note upon this, says, 66 This stone fruit is smaller in circumference than the coccymelon, but similar in flavour, only some what more acid.” It is singular that no one has been able to find a probable derivative for our word peach, yet it seems to be an easy contraction and corruption of horpeekes.

The name Barbilus or Brabilus appears to be derived from Bra, well, and byllos, swollen-literally meaning plump and smooth; and we know of no more accurate description of the Nectarine than to say, it is "a plump smooth Peach." We believe, also, that nectarines were known to the Romans by the name Tuberes. Pliny says, "Of all trees the Almond blooms first in the month of January; next to it flower the Apricot, and then Tuberes and early Peaches (Præcoces)." Now, what fruit, except Nectarines, could by any probability have been meant by Tuberes? We have other notes in