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other business that can be mentioned. How often, bourers, operatives, and artisans with their wives and on a Monday or Tuesday morning, you meet the wife children, are making their purchases for the week or the or boys of one of these small traders, with a plank and next day. This is the time to see the infinitesimal syscane for chairs, or veneer for workboxes-material for tem of dealing carried out at butchers and grocers,' or another week's struggle! On Saturdays you will see any place where food is sold. Petty dealers, never seen the man with tea-caddies, a table, or half-a-dozen chairs at any other time, now station themselves at the enupon his shoulder, panting along with hungry and trance of alleys and corners of streets, offering skewers, anxious look to find a purchaser. Poor creatures ! meat-hooks, penny roasting-jacks, cabbage- nets ; many of them are to be pitied; for very often the price short, a complete batterie de cuisine. They invite purthey obtain does not exceed the cost of the materials on chasers in most vociferous tones, and it is hard to say which they have expended six days' labour. Several whether they or the beggars are the more importunate : of the large advertising houses derive their supplies of the latter have to provide for a blank day on the morrow, goods from these sources. Boys, looking keen and ex- and make most moving appeals to the charity of byperienced as grown-up men, are seen both morning and standers. Presently you come to a ready-made clothes evening delivering and vending newspapers—how they warehouse, flaring and flashy, in front of which half-acollect round the doors of newspaper offices on the dozen musicians, engaged by the proprietor, have been announcement of a second edition,' waiting for news blowing away most lustily ever since noon, and will as jackals for carrion! A singular fact connected with keep on till midnight. This is a frequent mode of these boys is, that they go on 'Change.' Turn up advertising in the transpontine regions, and is often Catherine Street any afternoon about four, and there, adopted by enterprising bakers, when the usual 'glass within hearing of the Strand, you will find them con- of gin,' or 'penny returned with every loaf purchased,' gregated, and with a perfect Babel of cries exchanging fail to attract. So bewildering are the noise and confupapers. Times' for • Herald'— Standard' for 'Chro- sion, that you feel a sensible relief as the walk homenicle'-who wants ‘Globe ?'—who wants ‘Daily News?' wards carries you into a quieter neighbourhood. are calls kept up for the better part of an hour with It is pleasant to note the succession of flowers, from vociferous iteration. Watch the group for a few minutes, the crocuses and violets of early spring to the roses and you will see that the newsboy is as great an adept and carnations of summer, offered for sale in the streets. in turning a penny as the stockbroker farther east. The taste for flowers has increased of late years; some Our present purpose is to describe only the more ob- persons you will see never walk to town without a vious of what presents itself to the eye in a walk to or flower in their button - hole during the fine season. from office; much more might be written, were we in- From the markets, as centres, they are carried in handquiring into the multiplied resources for gaining a carts, barrows, or baskets, into every quarter of the livelihood to be found only in great cities. One more town: even back streets and dismal alleys are visited instance, and we must leave this part of our subject. by hawkers of flowers: and is it too much to expect Every day, except Sundays and holidays,' two rather that the sweet-scented things may have a humanising grim-faced, weather-beaten men may be seen walking influence? Another pleasure of the summer season, is up and down under the portico of Somerset House. For the opportunity for varying the daily walk by a trip in years have they taken up their position in this place, one of the cheap steamboats. You make for the nearest from ten to four, and will probably continue to do so bridge, walk on board, and for a halfpenny, are set down until incapacitated by age or infirmities. They look close to your place of business. These river omnibuses like man-of-war's men .in shore-going toggery;' and are admirable places for observation; here you may detheir business is to stop the sailors, great numbers of tect many peculiar characteristics of the Londoner. whom are continually calling at the Admiralty Office, Rather than wait two minutes and a half for the next within the quadrangle of the building, and advise them boat, they overcrowd the deck until the little vessel is how to proceed in making their inquiries. With the top heavy, and stand wedged together, half suffocated, proverbial generosity of seamen, the applicants, on leav. without the possibility of changing their position. ing the office, hand over a fee to their two informants, They will land at all sorts of inconvenient wharfs, with or invite them to drink at a neighbouring tavern. It is imminent risk of life and limb, week after week, and only in such a place as London that it would be worth month after month, or until it may please the proprieany one's while to come out in all weathers, with clean tors to provide better accommodation. Extremes meet: polished shoes, and well - brushed though threadbare and London is at once the fastest and slowest of cities. coat, to watch for the chances of a living from such an The man who cannot stay to answer your salute in the apparently uncertain source.
street, will live with exemplary patience close to some It sometimes happens that the routine of official duty horrid nuisance for ten or twenty years. He wonders is disturbed by some unexpected stroke of business ; on what people can possibly find to do with themselves in such occasions, a brief interval is allowed for refresh the country, and goes night after night to the same ment at a coffee-house-a half hour, in which some of parlour, in the same tavern, to hear the same vapid the peculiarities of London life may be studied. How talk that he already knows by heart. the disposition to avoid all unnecessary expenditure of You walk home leisurely on summer afternoons, words appears in the short, technical orders issued to resting a while to contemplate the animated view from the attendants! With some customers it borders on the bridge you may choose to cross, or halting at some slang: “Coffee and a thin un!' or, 'Dab o'grease and of the frequent book-stalls. All the world is thirsty : ball o' pipeclay!'may be heard from some remote corner; the benches in front of public-houses are crowded with the speakers' requirements being a cup of coffee and a porter drinkers, who imbibe the contents of pewter pots thin slice of bread and butter, or a pat of butter with an with infinite relish ; and venders of ginger beer offer egg. You may observe, too, how the demand for bread their cooling draught at every hundred yards. Freserves as an index to the season. In cold weather, quent parties of strangers are now met on the shady brown and cottage loaves are most in request; but in side of the street, gazing with wondering delight on all warm weather, nothing will go down but light French they see. Among these some have evidently come to rolls and tea-cakes. London coffee-houses would be settle in London: you may see them cheapening furnearly all that could be wished, if their arrangements niture at the brokers' shops ; perhaps a widow with included ventilation, and real coffee for the fluid sup- two or three children, eking out a scanty income to the plied to customers.
utmost. According to Johnson, whom we have before Should it happen to be a Saturday on which the un- quoted, there is no place where economy can be so expected detention occurs, the walk home late in the well practised as in London : more can be had here for evening reveals many new features of life in the great the money, even by ladies, than everywhere else. You city. The people who now crowd the streets are quite cannot play tricks with your fortune in a small place : of a different class to those seen during the day: la- you must make a uniform appearance. Here a lady
may have well-furnished apartments, and elegant dress, saving of L.15,000. The second edition of Mr Pagan's without any meat in her kitchen.'
work,* and some other tracts he has issued on the If the weather be at all rainy, the approaches to the same subject, make several revelations equally worthy bridges are beset by retailers of second-hand umbrellas : of remark. It appears from a statement respecting the Only one shilling each!'—Save a shower for a shilling!' above district, that an annual rate of 27s. 6d. per horse It is a better business than would at first sight appear; would be sufficient. Of this rate 19s. 6d. per horse would for, apart from those who can afford only a shilling for maintain the roads, 58. 6d. would go to the payment an umbrella, there is many a well-to-do citizen who of interest and redemption of the debt, and 25. 6d. be would rather lay out that sum than get wet to the skin. taken for management. In this way the management Day after day, as your eye glances along the line of would cost only a twelfth part, or 8 per cent., instead clerks and men in office walking homewards, you are of 44 per cent., as at present! The debt, he calculates, sure to see one carrying a blue bag. A blue bag is would be paid off in thirty years ; and accordingly, the considered respectable; it has an official look about it; rate per horse would ultimately sink to 22s. From some it suggests ideas of papers and parchments tied up with investigations that have been made, it appears that red tape. But appearances are often deceptive: if that farmers, the class most opposed to the change, would young clerk there, who has not yet reached his first generally save hy the adoption of this plan. Among promotion, would show you the contents of his bag, twenty-nine of the leading agriculturists in Fife, there you would see a leg of mutton, a bargain from Leaden- would be a gross saving of L.186, 43., or about 27 per hall or Newgate market. We have known oysters, cent. per annum. A farmer in one of the southern ox-tails for soup, onions, crockery, to be carried home counties of Scotland lately mentioned to us that the in a blue bag. The bag enables many to economise, lime he laid upon his land cost him at the rate of sixwho otherwise would be ashamed to do so.
teen shillings per acre for toll-bars ! But the days begin to draw in : by and by both sides Having been invited to state his plans at a meeting of the street are shady; and those who look for sun of the county of Forfar, Mr Pagan showed, by a stateshine as they walk home, see it only on the gilded ment before us, that he could effect an annual saving of weathercocks of church steeples, or slanting through nearly L.4000 on the road system of the county. The the opening of some side street in long sickly-looking aggregate sums levied from the public annually by tollrays. And then, before you are aware of it, the return bars, and statute - labour, and bridge-rates, amounted walk is all by lamplight; and the long suburban roads, to L.18,232. This he proposed to reduce to L.14,500, with their lines of flame on either side, remind you, as raised by a rate of 29s. per horse-of which there would you look down them, of the avenues described in the be applicable to road repair, 185. 6d. ; to expense of * Arabian Nights,' brilliant with lights, but ending at management, 23. 64. ; and to payment of interest and last in a gloomy void. Butchers and grocers are de- edemption of debt, 8s. By the extinction of the debt corating their shops again with holly, which reminds in thirty-one years, the rate would ultimately fall to us that our Walks to Office have made the round of the 22s. But there was a likelihood that, by the diminished
tear and wear of roads, arising from absorption of traffic
by railways, as well as from an increase in the number A SECOND WORD ON TIE ROADS.
of horses, the rate might be lowered much sooner. In
all probability, the rate would ultimately be only 148. 64. NEARLY three years ago, we took occasion to notice a per horse! plan for reforming the public road managements From statements brought forward at meetings in throughout the United Kingdom, projected by Mr W. Haddingtonshire and other places, similar inferences Pagan, a Scottish country solicitor. Since that period, are drawn. Scarcely a voice is listed in defence of what the subject has attracted the attention of divers road is now admitted to be a great abuse. The only parties trusts, town-councils, and other public bodies, and been labour exactions, are the functionaries whom a change
who attempt a vindication of the toll-bar and statutereceived in a generally favourable manner, without, would dispossess - lessees of bars, turnpike-men, and a however, any practical result being attained.
host of clerks and collectors. Nevertheless, it cannot The present method of maintaining the principal | be said that there is as yet any overt attempt at reform. roads by means of exactions at toll-bars is universally The trusts, composed exclusively of the landed gentry, agreed to be most objectionable. It is interruptive of who are unfortunately not men of business, seem to be intercourse, annoying to travellers, distracts traffic into in a sense paralysed. They almost everywhere acknowwrong channels, is a severe and clumsily - levied tax, ledge their existing condition to be bad, but they hesiand, worst of all, not more than from 50 to 60 per cent., tate as to the means of improvement. It would be well on an average, of the money so levied, goes to the sup- that they proceeded to fix on some determinate policy. port of the roads—the remainder being swallowed up in In all the central and populous districts of the kingdom, the erection and maintenance of toll-bars, the paying of the roads are already deprived of their through traffic turnpike-men, legislation, and jobbery. To keep the by railways, and nothing is left them but local interprincipal roads of England in repair, nearly five thou course; in other words, the roads now depend for supsand toll-bars are put in operation, and the expense of port chiefly on the rural population, the tolls upon many the acts of parliament to sustain the system in vigour, of them are scarcely worth collecting, and the trusts, has been stated to be L.100 per mile. The cost of col- burdened with heavy debts, cannot meet their obligalection alone is said to amount to L.800,000 per annum. tions. In this state of things, toll-bars are increased in Besides the charge for maintaining the principal roads, number, to the grievance of rural tenants and villagers ; large expenses are incurred for cross or parish roads, but all will not do; and from forty-four per cent. for which are usually supported by rates. Mr Pagan's collection, the ratio of expenditure rises to sixty, eighty, plan points to the entire abolition of toll-bars, the con- and even a hundred per cent. We happen to know solidation of trusts, and the levying of an annual rate the case of a toll-bar in a rural district which yields on horses, as the sole means of supporting the roads only L.4 annually. To gather this sum, L.2 and a free and liquidating the debts which the trusts have gene house are given to a female keeper. As the house and rally incurred. In the first edition of the work in which bar undoubtedly cost L.120, the annual interest of which this projected reform is explained, the writer presents sum is L.6, it is evident that the road-trust loses L4 tabular statements showing the extent of saving that by the transaction. This deficiency, however, really might thus be effected within two counties--Fife and falls on the public, which incurs an expenditure altoKinross. Rating all the horses in the district at 303. gether of L.10, no more than L.2 of which actually goes each per annum, L.18,000 would be raised -a sum which, compared with that levied by the existing methods
* A pamphlet of 120 pages. Blackwood, London and Edinof exaction by toll-bars and otherwise, would effect a burgh.
to the maintenance of the road. The cost of collection we all wished it were possible to witness that busy scene. in this instance is five hundred per cent.! Ere long, in Our longings were destined to be gratified, for a kind many quarters, turnpikes will not draw sufficient to invitation from the Conite de to one of our party pay their keepers. Then will begin the end of toll-bar opened the way for the whole inundation of us; and we exaction. Except in remote localities, and in the close set forth not only to view the vintage, but with the provicinity of towns, it will perish from mere natural de spect of a residence, at that interesting period, in a veritcay, and no one will pity its fall!
able French château. We reached Bordeaux in the Foresceing these consequences, the apathy of turn- evening, where a letter awaited us from the Comte de pike trusts seems like an infatuation. It surely cannot full of friendly welcome, and pointing out all the escape their notice that the loss, falling first on the necessary steps for our safely and expeditiously reaching rural population, will come ultimately on land. The his place on the following day. question, therefore, as to toll-bars and no toll-bars, is
At eight o'clock the next morning, we were accordingly one which greatly more concerns landlords and their on board the steam-vessel which was to carry us down tenants than the people of towns; and on this account, the Garonne. Its banks in this direction do not long except from a wish to see an end put to a social bar. continue to bear the beautiful riant character which so barism, the subject is not likely to excite much popular delighted us in the upper part of this noble river; and I commotion. We are sorry to observe that, in some could not help reverting to the change since I had sat on districts where the question has been agitated, the its banks in Spain, enjoying a rural luncheon, carried with tenant farmers, while not objecting to the removal of us to the edge of the narrow, gently-flowing stream, in toll-bars, have opposed Mr Pagan's plan of reform, on which the olive-complexioned women of the village were the score that the proposed rate levied on horses would washing their linen, and the children, half-clothed, picbear unduly on them, in relation to others who make turesque little objects, were dabbling and crossing over use of the roads. Although it is our belief that farmers it partly on stepping-stones ! generally would be relieved by the principle of a uniform
The weather was not bright; but there was a large, rating of horses, as compared with their present con- cheerful, and amusingly mixed company on the deck'; dition, it may be admitted that the reverse would pos. and a most excellent breakfast was soon served, which sibly be the case in a number of instances. The degree of drew us all much nearer to our associates, among whom rating, however, is a matter of detail; and Mr Pagan does
were families going to their country-seats, whose names, not press for an exact uniformity in all circumstances. connected with mercantile affairs, I had heard, when a The horses, for example, which are employed pretty girl, mentioned in England. The time was agreeably continuously in stage-coaches, and omnibuses, and in spent in hearing their accounts of the many villages we carriers' wagons, might properly enough be subject to passed, and in watching for the meeting of the rushing a higher rate than horses engaged almost exclusively Dordogne, which comes very boisterously down upon its in agricultural operations, or in carting rural produce.
more dignified brother the Garonne; occasioning the Some parties, we know, incline to government manage which is called in England a “bore.' About two o'clock
same sort of contest which occurs in the Shannon, and ment and taxation for the roads; but this we hope never to see.
we reached the landing place, and found the carriage of Local managements, though sometimes Monsieur le Comte, driven by a cocked-hatted coachman defective in their operation, are of the highest value in in full livery, in waiting to convey us to the château, cultivating a practical knowledge of affairs, and pre; distant about three miles. The roomy old coach soon serving constitutional freedom. Let local trusts and carried us to the mansion; and before we could alight, taxations, therefore, continue, but organised on better models, and in most instances consolidated over dis
our host was on the flight of steps, which he descended tricts irrespective of county divisions.
to meet me, who had the good fortune to be on that side We are not without a hope that some individual will of the carriage. I was immediately taken by the band step out of the ranks to master this important subject, anterooms, &c. and finally seated in one of the fauteuils,
in the most courtier-like manner, handed through the and distinguish himself as a leader in road reform.
at the side of a large old-fashioned chimney corner; my Thanks to Mr Pagan, the way is open before him.
young companion, with equal deference, being similarly
escorted by the eldest son to the corresponding seat of VINTAGE AT BORDEAUX.
honour. There we sat for a while, like the two supporters
of a heraldic shield! We had spent the greater part of the summer of 18— in The two elder daughters of our host, unluckily, were wandering among the Pyrenees, whose then unsophisti- absent, but the honours of the house were kindly and cated small watering-places had greatly delighted us; gracefully performed by his son's wife; and there were their simple, and in some cases rather rough accommo- also many agreeable intelligent men staying in the chadations, and the absence of all the ordinary idle ap- teau, a very curious rambling old concern, full of faded pliances for killing time, being amply compensated by grandeur. The 'salon,' into which we were first ushered, the society of a relation long settled in that region, had that formal bare appearance which was usual in the whose sporting propensities, as well as his taste for the days of our grandmothers, when no one thought of moving, natural beauties of this magnificent region, had made or perhaps had the strength to move, the massive seats from him thoroughly acquainted with every nook and corner their allotted places, or of deranging the order in which which a hunter after a bear, izzard, or the picturesque, two rows of yellow damask gilt chairs were placed against could desire to reach. Many a delightful expedition to the wainscot, round the room, as in the present case. the higher parts of the mountains, or to some spot out | The apartment was lighted by many very lofty windows, of the beaten regular 'guide' track, did we accomplish composed of small panes of glass; and the large old trees under his experienced direction; always rendered more immediately overhanging them, gave the room, with its interesting, from his knowledge of the Bearnais dialect uncarpeted polished oak floor, a very sombre air, quite in enabling him to give us information on the peculiar keeping, however, with the appearance of the old comte habits of this people, which we could not have obtained and the ancien régime' tone of things in general; and we under ordinary circumstances. There was a cheerfulness soon discovered that we were in one of the stronghoids of also given to these mountain rambles, from his being able conservatism' and 'legitimacy'—Don Carlos and Henry to converse with any of the country folks overtaken on V. being there objects of profound and respectful interest. the road, or who were busy about the cabins we chanced The former had been actively seconded by ore of the to pass, and many local tales and traditions of that dis- family in his secret journey to Spain; and the mother of trict became ours through his means. In some of our the young prince, not having at that time played all her shorter evening strolls, husbandry, cultivation of land in 'fantastic tricks before high Heaven,' was the heroine of general, wine-making, &c. used occasionally to be dis- their romantic loyalty. A pair of superb Sèvres jars, cussed by the gentlemen of our party; and as the summer many feet high, standing in corners of the salon, gifts closed in, and the season of the • vendange' approached, from her, were pointed out to us with a proud pleasure by these devoted adherents to her son's cause. I could / a most recherché meal, served sans tablecloth, which omisnot but think of one of Sir Walter Scott's old cavaliers sion deprived it in our eyes of all the elegance belonging when listening to the fearless remarks of our venerable to choice fruit, fine fish, game, and every article that could host on present times. His details of bygone days were form a tempting repast. The conversation was lively and likewise curious, when one of his ancestors, whose portrait agreeable, ending by a proposal to walk through all the hung over the drawing - room mantelpiece, formed part vineyards of our host, who accompanied us. He was full of the cortège that accompanied the infanta from Spain of information concerning the different growths of the to France, and whose château was one of the resting. surrounding lands; for the varieties in the size and places for the betrothed princess before proceeding to appearance of the grape, and consequently in the quality meet her future husband Louis XIV.
of the wine produced, are in many instances extraordiThe first difficulties of introduction among persons nary-a narrow lane only sometimes intervening, on one with whom we had no common tie or subject of interest, side of which there will be a first-class production, while were soon got over by this truly well-bred family: still its opposite neighbour has hardly a name with the winewe were glad when there was a move to prepare for dinner. buyers. The same mode of cultivation will not remedy This repast was most elegant as to the cuisine, though in this caprice of nature; and even in one instance, where a some of the appointments the table might, in these luxu- trifling slope of the ground a little varied the exposure of rious modern days, be considered slightly deficient; but a plant, there was a perceptible difference in the favour then it was in matters that made the whole atrair less of the fruit. In the afternoon, we completed our course commonplace; and the attentions of our high-bred, kind- of examination by a visit to the Lafitte and Monton vinehearted host made us all forget, long before we rose from yards, and to the village of Cost, famous for the St Esteppe table, that our acquaintance was of only a few hours' wine. Our delightful old comte accompanied us, and standing. We all quitted the dining-room at the same enlivened by his agreeable intelligent conversation this time, as is usual abroad, the two lady-visitors being led classic drive through a pretty though somewhat flat by the hand to the drawing-room, as on their first arrival. country; most interesting, however, when one considers Some strolled into the gardens, others to the billiard- what is the produce of so vast an extent of plants, more table; and on my return froin my room, after the lights | insignificant in appearance than our currant bushes, for were brought, I was an used to find my young companion none are suffered to grow to more than three feet in engaged at piquet with one of the gentlemen, quite fear- height. On our way home, we stopped at the church less of the difficulties of new terms, &c. in this her debut where the family had gone in the morning to mass, that at card-playing in France, and in full flow of French we might see a picture of the “Crucifixion' by Mademoiconversation with her agreeable adversary. He had been selle ; and though this specimen of amateur art many years a prisoner in England, and having lived in was far above mediocrity, it was less interesting to us to very good society (on his parole, I suppose), was full of behold than the good old man's delight in showing us inquiry concerning many persons, mutual acquaintances, this sample of his daughter's talent and piety. The evenas well as about customs, places, and things which had ing was delightful; and after dinner, I had a long and changed in various ways since his liberation. He under- charming walk with the comte, who greatly interested me stood and wrote English extremely well, and gave her with the particulars he gave concerning the mode of maeven some very pretty poetry written in our language, naging the vines, &c. They furnish constant occupation making the most polite efforts at speaking it likewise, all the year round to families who live close by, and who though he had lost his fluency. A small round waiter have each certain portions intrusted to their superinten. was brought in, and placed on a little table at the end of dence, which is required day and night at particular seathe room; and there tea was poured out of a small china sons. These crops were all of the black grape ; but the teapot into diminutive but beautiful cups, such as would colour of the fruit does not affect that of the wine. At have excited greedy longings in a china-fancier. This a certain stage, there are assistants also required to beverage was evidently served in compliment to les give additional turning to the ground about the roots of dames Anglaises, so my young coinpanion and I partook the plants, or to thin the leaves ; and this last is a most of it; the rest of the family helped themselves at their delicate operation, as a little too much of exposure, or pleasure from the carafe' of cold water, to which they exposure not timed to the moment when the grape readded sugar and 'fleur d'orange,' a bottle of which favou- quires it, may be its ruin! When I add, that the vines rite preparation stood beside the tea equipage.
are subject to a plague, in the shape of a fly, and another The bedchamber was as singular-looking as our love in the shape of a snail, to a terrible extent, it will appear of novelty could desire-lofty, with many large windows that these precious productions cause as much anxiety as and several doors. None of these fitted very closely, our own useful and far more beautiful hop, before they and we were on the ground-floor; so that, with the occa- attain to full and perfect maturity. There was a small sional startling from their noise, the sighing of the wind tower-looking building raised very high in the midst of through the overhanging trees, and our own thoughts the crops, where at this time I was amused to see a man on the novelty of our position, it was some time before watching from a little wooden balcony, recalling to my we sunk to rest. There were no blinds to keep the sun inind allusions to such things in the Scriptures. Busy from shining through the boughs into our room, gladden- preparations had been going on all this day, by men ing us with the assurance of a brilliant morning having bringing out casks, which had been stored away somesucceeded the dull unpromising evening; and while con- where in the château, not far from our room on the groundsidering whether, by stirring at this early hour, I might floor; for we had been awakened by the unusual rumbling cause some commotion among the household, one of the noise made by rolling them close by our windows. People doors was gently opened, and Mademoiselle Julie, the were busy likewise in putting in order the yard and pretty femume-de-chambre to Madame de glided 'cuvier,' or great wine-house; and thus everything we softly up to the bedside, having a small tray in her hand, saw and heard increased the interest with which we antion which were two delicate little cups of green tea, cipated the gathering,' which was to begin on the fol. with the necessary accompaniments, and a plate of bis- lowing morning. cuit. While presenting these to each of us, her graceful The sun shone out gloriously; and long before we were manner, her costume, and the singularity of being thus dressed, the merry voices of women and children were awakened, made my young companion fancy she had heard, who are principally the cutters.' One hundred opened her eyes on a scene at the ‘Gaieté' or 'Vaude of these are employed, besides the numbers of men ville.' This refreshment was considerately provided before required for the more heavy work of lifting the wooden making our toilettes, lest we should be exhausted by wait- sort of basket, two of which, when filled with grapes, are ing for the regular déjeuner, which would not take place put on a low sort of cart, to be driven away to the cuvier. for some time. We found that most of the family had In this merciless tossing to and fro, all bloom and beauty gone to mass, early, at the neighbouring village, in order of the fruit, alas! soon disappears. The whole band of to be free to give us their company during the remainder labourers assemble at sunrise, when breakfast, consisting of the day; but we assenabled between ten and eleven at of bread, onions, and grapes, is served out in the great yard. We were not, however, up early enough to witness our own harvest-home, and is quite a festival, dancing and this performance; but when our own more delicate meal a supper winding up the whole; but unluckily our plans was finished, we accompanied our venerable host to the did not allow of our remaining to witness the gay scene. scene, and on his appearance, there was such a lighting Most sorrowfully did we ladies especially see the carriage up of the rough countenances around us, and so pleasing drawn up soon after our last breakfast with these kind a buzz among the workmen, as showed their delight at the people, who neglected nothing that could make our stay kindly general sort of greeting given by their old master, or our going away agreeable. They did 'welcome the whose arrival at the cuvier is considered to begin the coming and speed the parting guest' in the truest spirit 'vintage.' The cuvier is much like a very capacious barn; of kindness; and we took our leave as if they had been and the good old comte pointed out to us a large, simple the friends of many years, instead of recently-made acwicker-chair, in which, for sixty years, his mother regularly quaintances, with real regret that the distance between took her seat on the first day, and which had never been us, and the great age of our venerable host, made it so moved since her death. An equally precious relic was little probable that we should ever meet again. There the old fiddler, who for above fifty years had, on these was another painful feeling accompanying our departure occasions, stood on the same precise spot where he now from this hospitable mansion--we were now to consider received his beloved patron's special notice with a sort our holiday as drawing to a close, and on reaching Borof proud gratitude. The comte gives the signal, and deaux, were to commence our long journey to England. In now the music strikes up, and the first cart tumbles its those days there were no railways on the continent; and precious load, through a wide sort of arched window, into when we reached the Dordogne, which could be crossed the great cistern, which stretches along just below the only by an immense ferry boat, we were told, to our great level of its sill. There were three of these openings in astonishment, that the current was running too strongly the length of the building; and each cistern was manned for it to cross. For above an hour, on a miserably rainy by sixteen men in merely their white shirts and short morning, did we sit in our carriage till the turbulent breeches tucked up above the knee, showing the brawny waves subsided, when our vehicle, and the malle poste, legs and bare feet which were soon to tread a measure' whose patience had been put to the same test, were shipped to the old fiddler's lively melodies. A strange effect it on board of an enormous barge, moved by a horse in a had to our English eyes when these rough-looking beings, mill; and this primitive, uncouth-looking vehicle was the taking their places opposite to each other, began a set medium of communication between the two greatest cities of quadrilles in a most decorous manner, at every step of France! A suspension-bridge was about to be concrushing down the once beautiful fruit, whose juice runs structed; and when the projected railway, too, is finished, out at an aperture in one corner into tubs, beside which travellers of the present day, who skim rapidly in all a man watches lest they should overflow. I ought to directions without hindrance or adventure, will view as have mentioned, that before the ball commences, there . old women's tales' the singular shifts, diverting contreis a very large wire-frame or cullender placed over the temps, and entertaining incidents which were to be enshallow cisterns, in which the men rapidly separate the joyed by those who could keep their tempers, and open stalks from the fruit; the latter falling through, and the their eyes and ears wide enough, in a journey performed stalks being carried to another cistern, where a man with at the rate of five miles an hour, and in a quarter where a small kind of rake picks off any grapes remaining on
the English were still stared at. We never met, however, them. These stalks are then piled up in a press, and the with anything to annoy us seriously; and though no liquor they yield makes an inferior drink for the lower thoroughgoing conservative, I look back with thankfulclasses. As the juice streaming from the preseers' cisterns ness to my lot in having made this delightful journey as filled the tubs, they were borne away on poles between in the 'good old times,' with four stout steeds to our two men staggering under their loads, like Caleb and his own luxurious travelling-carriage. But here we must companions bearing away their bunch of grapes from part. Vines and grapes met our eyes for many days, but Eshcol. I was surprised to hear that the skins of the with them we had no friendly associations, and my little grape are thrown with the juice into the great vats, narrative is therefore at an end. where all is left to ferment, during which process they rise to the top of the 'must' (as the liquor is then
ANECDOTES OF DOGS. called), and are easily skimmed off afterwards. At twelve o'clock symptoms reached our ears of fresh bustle, teresting anecdotes of dogs in Captain Brown's · Popular
The following are selected from a great variety of inand we were soon summoned out to the great yard, Natural History,' just published: where a temporary wooden kitchen had been erected, An English gentleman some time ago went to Vauxhall and where the large, cheerful body of labourers-men, Gardens (France) with a large mastiff, which was refused women, and children — were assembled, divided into admittance, and the gentleman left him in the care of the moderate-sized groups, engaged in merry chat, till it body-guards, who are placed there. The Englishman, came to their turn to be served with dinner. This con- some time after he had entered, returned to the gate and sisted of bouillon, with plenty of good bread in it, fol- informed the guards that he had lost his watch, telling the lowed by an excellent dish of meat and potatoes, much sergeant, that if he would permit him to take in the dog, like our unmentionable Irish stew. We were much in- he would soon discover the thief. His request being granted, terested in watching them, all polite to each other, and lost, which immediately ran about amongst the company,
the gentleman made motions to the dog of what he had in full enjoyment of their rest and this excellent fare. and traversed the gardens, till at last he laid hold of a man. A supper of bread and grapes finishes the day, through- The gentleman insisted that this person had got his watch; out which there are casks of small wine near at hand for and on being searched, not only his watch, but six others general refreshment; and assuredly, most necessary was were discovered in his pockets. What is more remarkable, some such beverage, for the heat was so intense, that, to the dog possessed such a perfection of instinct, as to také wards the latter part of the afternoon, the dancers had his master's watch from the other six, and carry it to him! much slackened their movements; and many told us
Of the alertness of the dog in recovering the lost prothat, but for the inspiriting tones of the violin, they perty of its master, we shall give one other instance. M. should not be able to get through their labour. I was Dumont, a tradesman of the Rue St Denis, Paris, offered to amused to see the old Orpheus, too, nodding most vehe- lay a wager with a friend, that if he were to hide a six-livre mently now and then—and not surprised, for besides his piece in the dust, his dog would discover and bring it to indefatigable exertions, something might be ascribed to him. The wager was accepted, and the piece of money the fames arising from this quantity of grape juice (be proceeded some distance from the spot, M. Dumont called
secreted, after being carefully marked. When they had ginning soon to ferment), which had a perceptible effect to his dog that he had lost something, and ordered him to upon my own head during the comparatively short time seek it. Caniche immediately turned
back, while his master I was exposed to their influence. Besides this liberal and his companion pursued their walk to the Rue St Denis. board, the men were all to have a franc a day; but the Meanwhile a traveller, who happened to be just then remoney wages vary with the season.
turning in a small chaise from Vincennes, perceived the The concluding day of the vintage is distinguished like piece of money, which his horse had kicked from its hiding