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the Streight of Le Maire, and the indraught of 1769.
January the Streight of Magellan *.
Saturd. 14. Having continued to range the coaft, on the 14th we entered the Streight of Le Maire; but Streight of the tide turning against us, drove us out with great violence, and raised such a fea off Cape St, Deigo, that the waves had exactly the same aps pearance as they would have had if they had broke over a ledge of rocks; and when the ship was in this torrent, the frequently pitched, fo that the bowsprit was under water, About noon, we got under the land between Cape St, Deigo and Cape St. Vincent, where I intended to have anchored; but finding the ground every where hard and rocky, and fhallowing from thirty to twelve fathoms, I sent the master to examine a little cove which lay at a small diftance to the eastward of Cape St. Vincent. When he returned, he reported, that there was anchorage in four fathom, and a good bottom, clofe to the eastward of the first bluff point, on the east of Cape St. Vincent, at the very entrance
* The celebrated navigator who discovered this Streight was a native of Portugal, and his name, in the language of his country, was Fernando de Magalhaens ; the Spaniards call him Hernando Magalhanas, and the French Magellan, which is the orthography that has been generally adopted : a gentleman, the fifth in descent from this great adventurer, is now living in or near London, and communicated the true name of his anceftor to Mr. Banks, with a requeft that it might be inserted in this work.
of the cove, to which I gave the name of Vincent's Bay: before this anchoring ground, however, lay several rocky ledges, that were covered with sea-weed; but I was told that there was not less than eight and nine fathom over all of them. It will probably be thought strange, that where weeds, which grow at the bottom, ap. pear above the surface, there should be this depth of water; but the weeds which grow upon rocky ground in these countries, and which al. ways distinguish it from sand and ooze, are of an enormous size. The leaves are four feet long, and some of the stalks, though not thicker than a man's thumb, above one hundred and twenty: Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander examined some of then, over which we founded and had fourteen fathom, which is eighty-four feet; and, as they made a very acute angle with the bottom, they were thought to be at least one half longer: the foot stalks were swelled into an air veffel, and Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander called this plant. Fucus giganteus. Upon the report of the master, I stood in with the ship; but not trusting implicitly to his intelligence, I continued to sound, and found but four fathom upon the first ledge that. I went over; concluding, therefore, that I could not anchor here without risk, I determined to seek some port in the Streight, where I might get on board such wood and water as we wanted.
Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, however, being very desirous to go on shore, I sert a boat with them and their people, while I kept plying near as possible with the ship.
Having been on shore four hours, they returned about nine in the evening, with above an hundred different plants and flowers, all of them wholly unknown to the botanists of Europe. They found the country about the bay to be in general flat, the bottom of it in particular was a plain, covered with grass, which might easily have been made into a large quantity of hay; they found also abundance of good wood and water, and fowl in great plenty. Among other things, of which Nature has been liberal in this place, is Winter's bark, Winteranea aromatica; which may easily be known by its broad leaf, shaped like the laurel, of a light green colour without, and inclining to blue within ; the bark is easily stripped with a bone or a stick, and its virtues are well known: it may be used for culinary purposes as a spice, and is not less pleasant than wholesome : here is also plenty of wild celery and scurvy-grass. The grees are chiefly of one kind, a species of the birch, called Betula antarEtica; the stem is from thirty to forty feet long, and from two to three feet in diameter, lo that in a case of necessity they might possibly supply a ship with top-mafts: they are a light white wood, bear a small leaf, and cleave very Vol. II.
1769. straight, Cranberries were also found here in January.
great plenty, both white and red.
The persons who landed faw none of the inhabitants, but fell in with two of their deserted huts, one in a thick wood, and the other close by the beach..
Having taken the boat on board, I made saib Sunday 15. into the Streight, and at three in the morning of
the 15th, I anchored in twelve fathom and an half, upon coral rocks, before a small cove, which we took for Port Maurice, at the distance of about half a mile from the shore. Two of the natives came down to the beach, expecting us to land; but this spot afforded so little fhel. ter, that I at length determined not to examine it: I therefore got under fail again about ten o'clock, and the favages retired into the woods.
At two o'clock, we anchored in the bay of Good Success; and after dinner I went on shore, accompanied by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, to look for a watering-place, and speak to the Indians, several of whom had come in fight. We landed on the ftarboard side of the bay near fome rocks, which made fmooch water and good landing; thirty or forty of the Indians foon made their appearance at the end of a fandy beach on the other fide of the bay, but seeing our number, which was ten or twelve, they retreated. Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander then advanced about one hundred yards before us,
upon which two of the Indians returned, and, 9769, having advanced fome paces towards them, fat a down; as soon as they came up, the Indians rose, Saturd, 15. and each of them having a small stick in his hand threw it away, in a direction both from themselves and the strangers, which was confi. dered as the renunciation of weapons in token of peace; they then walked briskly towards their companions, who had halted at about fifty yards behind them, and beckoned the gentlemen 'to follow, which they did. They were received with many uncouch signs of friendship; and, in return, chey distributed among them some beads and ribbons, which had been brought on fhore for that purpose, and with which they were greatly delighted. A mutual confidence and good-will being thus produced, our parties joined; the conversation, such as it was, became general; and three of them accompanied us back to the ship. When they came on board, one of them, whom we took to be a. priest, performed much the same ceremonies which M. Bougainville describes, and supposes to be an exorcism. When he was introduced into a new part of the ship, or when any thing that he had not seen before caught, his attention, he shouted with all his force for some minutes, without directing his voice either to us or his companions.
They eat some bread and some beef, but not apparently with much pleasure, though such