THE LADIES' SALOON AT THE HOTEL.

77

These little arrangements are by no means uncommon when travelling in the United States. It is here not at all unusual for ladies to travel alone, nor is it considered as contre les bienséances for them to avail themselves of the escort of any polite stranger they may happen to meet with on the journey.

The pianoforte in the ladies' saloon at Delavan's Hotel seemed to be in great request; for we underwent a constant succession of noisy songs till one o'clock in the morning. The burning of the sulphurous anthracite coal, and the suffocating atmosphere produced by its fumes, and by the universal use of close stoves, is altogether very disagreeable. The high temperature of their apartments, and their unhealthy mode of heating them, are, I have no doubt, some of the causes to which we may attribute the pale looks and sunken jaws of the Americans. From the first hour after our landing, I had been struck with the absence of healthy colour in individuals of both sexes, and of all classes. It is very rare to see an American with a clear, fresh complexion, and still more uncommon to find one who is. possessed of good or white teeth. And as for the children! taking into consideration their pallid faces, and generally unthriven appearance, it is almost a subject for wonder that they do not grow up into humans' still more blighted-look

78

UNHEALTHY MODE OF LIFE

ing than the full grown men actually are. I quite longed to see a rosy-cheeked child, and was still more anxious to prevent the little miserable animals from eating the quantity of unwholesome food in which their parents and guardians allowed them to indulge. The young free-born citizens of the Union seemed to me to be seldom occupied in any other way than in devouring raw apples or hiccory nuts; and it is highly probable that (even if it were possible to convince their papas and mammas that such a proceeding causes many of the depressing complaints to which so many of them are subject) no efforts to induce the children to give up the obnoxious habit would be resorted to. The coercive system in America is too unpopular to be used even with their own children, and from their earliest infancy the watchwords of

liberty,' equality,' and fraternity,' are understood, as far as they can be, and reasoned upon by the young Republicans.

I believe that the Americans themselves do not dispute the fact, that (as a race) they are considerably inferior in physical strength to their ancestors. That the Anglo-Saxon' breed has degenerated, as far as outward appearance goes, is undeniable; but why it is so it is impossible to say. It is, perhaps, still more difficult to account for the different breeds of English sheep becoming invariably in America wretched animals instead

of fine ones. It is, in fact, quite as unusual a sight to meet a really fine-looking man in New England as it is to taste a good leg of mutton. The biped grows up long, thin, and weedy, with hollow cheeks, narrow shoulders, small hands and feet, and a good deal of nose: as for the woolly animal, there is no apparent reason why it should not retain its peculiar characteristics of Leicestershire' or 'Southdown' to the end of time; but it does not, and though the greatest care and attention are paid them-though the parent stock is imported from England, and not unfrequently their own shepherds also- though turnips are grown for their support in winter, and no expense is spared by the New England farmer to keep up the breed in perfection-nothing succeeds. The experiment has been tried in the barren soil of New England, in the fertile valleys of Kentucky, and also in the wild mountains of Georgia, and always, I have been told, with the same ill success. I have devoted so much time to mes moutons, that I must close my letter, and will write again after I have been to Trenton.

UCH was our impatience to reach the wonder of the western world, that we agreed not to devote more than one entire day to seeing what was to be seen at Albany. Immediately after breakfast, we ordered ourselves to be driven down to the river, where, having climbed to the upper deck of one of the large steamers lying along the quay, we had an excellent view of the city. We were, however, more impressed with respect for its commercial appearance than with admiration for the charms of its situation. The river is a noble one; and the quays and basins along its banks were crowded with shipping. The city (which, by the way, was christened after our James the Second of unlucky memory) has more the appearance of a Dutch than an 'American' town. It is built on what can barely be called rising ground, though there is certainly a declivity towards the water; I should say, however, that no part of the city is more than one hundred feet above the

DESCRIPTION OF ALBANY.

81

level of the river. Looking to the south, you catch a glimpse of the Katskill Mountains; and far away to the north are seen the distant hills of Vermont.

I find that Albany is considered by its inhabitants one of the finest cities in America; its streets are, however-most of them-insignificant and irregularly built; notwithstanding that in them you do occasionally see very handsome-looking public buildings, particularly among the hotels. Its very fussy and business-like air renders it particularly unattractive to a mere idler, and I felt no wish that our stay should be prolonged. Albany appears to be the very focus and centre of commerce, for the Erie and Champlain canals enter the Hudson River six miles above the city, at Troy. This strangely named town is classically situated between Mounts Ida and Olympus. It is a very thriving place, and has already taken a great deal of business from Albany. This is owing in a great measure to its being nearer the head of navigation,' and this, I am told, is considered a great advantage in the commercial position of all American cities. In 'land privileges,' however, the Albanians have the advantage over the Trojans, for they are on the direct line of railroad from Boston to Buffalo.

There are many public institutions here; colleges, museums, and public libraries-the regular things, in short, which, good, bad, or indifferent,