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JERUSALEM AND ITS ENVIRONS.
are all called. No thoughtful person could re- ; between our admiral and the viceroy. The visit flect upon this fact without experiencing feel itself, with such other sights as we saw in Jeru. ings of more than usual solemnity.
salem, must, however, be reserved for another From Gethsemane we rode down by a portion chapter. of our former way, pausing for a moment to see some Arab women engaged in the perforinance of a dance for the dead. The performers were all
CHAP. V. clad in coarse blue dresses, and chanted as they confusedly danced round. It was to be regretted that we could not understand the words of the dirge they sang; but we learned The visit to be paid to the Pacha of Jerusafrom our guide that its language was figurative, lem formed the all-absorbing topic of the and the burden of it a repetition of some such morning following the day of the admiral's arriwords as “The light is taken away.”
val. As the hour, however, at which we were to Passing on from this spot by a not very in- proceed to the vice-regal residence was not a teresting way, and after a ride of considerable very early one, we resolved to visit the Armeduration, we came in view of Bethlehem, which nian Convent of St. James. is attainable from a considerable distance. On The church belonging to this community is entering the town, we made our way at once to spacious and beautiful; and contains amongst the Church of the Nativity, connected with other objects of reverent interest, a valuable oilwhich is a Franciscan monastery: To the latter painting as well as the tomb of the Apostle ; our dragoman-guide turned, and having made the latter is firmly believed by the faithful to the necessary request for luncheon, returned to contain the remains of the Saint. At no great conduct us to the church. A monk now presented distance from the Convent stands the Tower of himself as cicerone, and under his guidance we David, and thither we went in the vain hope of inspected the Armenian chapel, in which service seeing David's tomb. The custode who was in was then being performed, the Tomb of the charge of the lower grounds pointed out to us a Innocents, that of St. Helena, and finally the large mortar-floored room as the tomb of the school and tomb of St. Jerome. These minor Psalmist, but admitted that what he showed us objects did not occupy our attention, either for so was merely a cover constructed over the real long a period or so completely as to prevent our tomb, a sight of which is not permitted to preferring a sight of the birth-place of the Sa- Christians. viour to them. The enshrined spot pointed In returning to the hotel we passed as closely out as that on which the Saviour was born was as was prudent to the village of the Lepers
. at length reached, and upon it, and its com- This colony cannot fail to present a melancholy panion the site of the manger, we gazed with interest to the traveller. A cluster of bee-hive great interest; feeling certain that, whether these sbaped huts of stone or mud constitutes the two shrines did really overhang the identical village; but of what size the huts are, or of site of the nativity and of the manger or not, the number of the inmates, we could gain no at all events the locality was the same, and information, and were satisfied to foilow the one in or near which the identical site inust be. advice given to Danté–“Behold, and pass on.” As soon as we had completed the inspection of The sight of the village sufficed, however, to the Church of the Nativity, we repaired to the suggest the subject of leprosy as topic of conver. Franciscan Monastery, of which mention has sation; and the conclusion we came to was been already made, and there partook of a that the fact of leprosy demanding the interfrugal luncheon. When preparing for our return ference of the authorities and separation of the to Jerusalem we were beset by the entreaties of afflicted was the worse form of the disease. the men and boys, who sell rude carvings on Minor forms of it, such as leprosy of the joints, shell of the Nativity, &c., as well as crosses and do not, it seems, necessitate either; and persons souvenirs of Bethlehem. Escaping from these afflicted with the latter form of the disease may persistent tormentors we succeeded in mounting be met with in the streets, or employed as shopour horses, and after a brisk ride we returned keepers in selling their wares. to Jerusalem. On reaching the Holy City On reaching Mount Zion again we found the once more, we rode at once to our hotel, and courtyard of our Hotel the scene of busy pre there found that a considerable addition had paration for the visit to the Pacha. The British been made to its number of guests. The Ad- Consul had arrived, attended by a posse comitatus miral in commanil on the coast of Syria had, of interpreters and kawasses; the latter are with a retinue of several officers, arrived to pay functionaries whose employment is peculiarly an official visit to the Pacha of Jerusalem. eastern, and their use to clear the way before Now, as almost all the accompanying officers personages of distinction. The appearance belonged to the same ship with ourselves, we the kawass is strikingly oriental; and bis dress were very glad to ineet old friends, and talk pretty and picturesque. Armed with a long over the sights we had seen. The visit to the silver-headed staff somewhat similar to that of Pacha was to take place the following day, and a drum-major, the kawass marches in state very naturally formed a topic of conversation to before his potentate, and either pompously all of us, as all officers present were, if so dis- strikes upon the ground with his staff
, or else posed, at liberty to be present at the interview I use it to clear away opposing obstacles and disa
perse knots of persons impeding his progress. iahabitants of various countries, assembled Rough saddles, rough horses, and rough roads, regularly on every Friday in the year, to mourn all conspired to make our journey to the Pacha's over the departed glory of their race. On the residence much more imposing than comfortable. occasion of our visit, there were with the men
Government House having been at length several women present. These latter, turning reached, we dismounted, and were presented in their face towards the wall, uttered a low order to the viceroy by the admiral. We now plaintive lamentation ; whilst the men read, in seated ourselves on cushioned benches around a murmuring voice, from copies of the Hebrew the audience chamber; whilst the admiral and Psalms. The particular locality selected as the the Pacha occupying central positions conversed Wailing-place of the Jews is so chosen, we through the medium of an interpreter. The were told, from the wall there being composed dialogue presented nothing of interest to the of stoves once forming part of the Temple. general company; and we were not sorry to The Mosque of Omar now only remained to be perceive a diversion made by the entrance of seen, ere we could be satisfied that we had done servants bearing long pipes, the amber mouth- all that was possible in a limited visit to pieces of which were set round with diamonds. Jerusalem. Many visitors have sought in vain With the pipes came coffee, coffee of the pecu- for entrance within the sacred precincts of this liar excellence to be met with only in the east. mosque ; and such would have been our lot, in Whether it is the roasting or the subsequent all probability, had not the admiral obtained boiling that makes eastern coffee so much permission to visit its interior. To describe superior to any other I cannot say; but of its this wondrous building in a manner adequate to superiority no one who has tasted it can doubt. its claims were a work demanding greater powers The Pacha and the admiral were, I have no ques- than I possess, and a much less limited space tion satisfied with each other; and at the close than that at my disposal. It must suffice to of their interview we took our departure, and say that we saw all the objects of interest in, once more applied ourselves to sight-seeing. under, and around the mosque; and amongst Time being very valuable, we resolved to ride these, and most prominent, is the rock which is without delay to the Tombs of the Judges. The said to have followed Mahomet's ascent from excavation pointed out as the resting-places of the earth, until stayed in its progress by the the sages who judged Israel are subterranean hand of the angel Gabriel. The print of the catacombs; and differ so little from others ex- fingers of the angel, as well as the foot of hibited in another place as the Tombs of the Mahomet
, were duly pointed out to our Kings that they might be pointed out to visitors incredulous eyes. On descending to the lower either for the other. We now proceeded to Mount part of the building, our attention was directed Scoperse; from which we enjoyed a comprehen- to a stone, exhibiting, we were told, the footsive view of the whole surrounding country. mark of the "Prophet Jesus," as well as The Tomb and Well of the Virgin, both of which portions of the foundation of the old building. are on the opposite side of Jerusalem, we duly Having duly investigated the subterraneous visited on the same day. The following morn- portions of the mason work, we returned with ing being wet we could not do much in the way some sense of relief to the upper air, and the of excursionizing; but the vendors of rosaries, enjoyment of the splendid views obtainable crosses, pearl-shell relievos, and other sou- from the boundary walls. This was the last of venirs of Jerusalem made quite a harvest of our Jerusalem sight-seeing; and it now only sales. Besides the above-named sonvenir- remained to set out for the Dead Sea, the Jordan, sellers there are vendors of photographic views, and Jericho. stereoscopic slides, &c., all of whom
The arrangements for this expedition bad been to drive a profitablé trade with visitors. Con- already made, and the horses provided; so that spicuous amongst the solicitors for custom at we had but to bid farewell to some of our comthe hotel was one portly figure, that of a Jewpanions who could not accompany us, and then named Rosenthal, whose trade was the obey the cry "To horse.” The Jordan party, engraving and selling of bloodstones for seals as we were now for distinction called, did not or rings. A young man, the son of the Jesv, number more than some seven or eight officers, who accompanied his father, was most persever- but to these were added a dragoman and two ing in his endeavours to get custom; and by attendants. A party such as ours was might his earnest manner and broken English caused be deemed sufficiently numerous to travel with great amusement. He so often repeated “Cut safety " from Jerusalem to Jericho," without your name in Hebrew for a dollar! What your falling “among thieves ;' but such was not the name? You like to see your name in Hebrew?" | opinion of the authorities, and we were in conthat the words became familiar to us, and were sequence furnished with a guard by order of often repeated long after we had left the scene the Pacha. Our escort consisted of an officer, of his persevering labours.
of unknown rank! and six troopers with a The weather cleared in the afternoon so as to drummer at their head. The drummer was allow of our visiting the Wailing-place of the supplied with two metal bowls covered with Jews; to which we were conducted by the parchment; these hung one on either side of his younger
Rosenthal. The Wailing-place is saddle-bow, and were beaten from time to time situated outside the boundary wall of the Mosque with a short piece of leather strap. Noise rather of Omar, Here number of poor Jews,'than music resulted from the drummer's per,
formance; and I shrewdly suspect his presence purpose, the mountain and precipitous valley was more ornamental than useful-unless, indeed, lending depth and roll to the report. No more he performed the office of bell carrier to the romantic appearance than that presented by flock. The dress of the escort was picturesque the convent of Mar Saba could well be ima. to a high degree; and our own was sui generis ; gined; and its history is as interesting and each pilgrim-we had all become pilgrims now eventful as the position is striking. This con. that we were facing towards Jordan-having vedt owes its existence to the fame and energy one or more tin cases, for carrying back some of of a hermit named Saba, whose sanctity obthe Jordan slung across his shoulders. Thus lained for him the prefix Mar, which is, being equipped, thus muunted, and thus escorted, we interpreted, Saint. Mar Saba was, tradition turned our faces in the direction of the Dead saith, a pious recluse, who lived in the fourth Sea and the Jordan.
century, and having selected the site of the present convent as his retreat, lived in a cave, from which he first dispossessed a lion, its earlier
tenant, by the moral force of his sanctity. This CHAP. VI.
cave, which is still pointed out to visitors,
proved the germ of the future monastery; and JERUSALEM TO THE DEAD SEA, JORDAN, Mar Saba had the satisfaction -- for saints are
human-of attracting numerous followers to
his rocky retreat. The accession to the num. Before we had travelled very far on our jour- ber of the saint's imitators and admirers sugney we
were brought to a full stop by the ap- gested the formation of a brotherhood, and, to pearance of a venerable figure emerging from an accommodate it, it became necessary to build a Arab encampment. This proved to be the convent. It must have been a work of conBedouin sheik, coine out to claim the usual siderable difficulty to construct a building at “ black mail” from travellers. The grey beard, such a height as that of the convent; and, as it flowing robe, and long staff of our new friend now stands, it presents a lasting memorial of would have formed an élude. Picturesque the untiring perseverance of the founder. though they were however, they did not avail During the time of building, the monks were with our dragoman so much as the presence of much troubled by their Arabian neighbours ; the escort acted in counterbalance. After a and even after they had completed their la. brief parley we were allowed to proceed, mo- bours, there were frequent incursions of the ralizing by the way upon the weakness of a barbarians. More than once has the convent government that allows such a system of spolia- been the scene of bloodshed and plunder, and tion to exist within a few miles of the centre of of these there are still to be seen representations, authority. The fears of further robbery are sup- rudely painted in oil, on the walls. These pic. posed to be removed by a cheerful payment of tures exhibit a strong family likeness in plot and the demand of each sheik, at least 'tis so whilst execution, and are almost all representations passing through the territory that acknowledge of fierce Arabs with flashing eyes and drawn him as its hereditary ruler. To agree at once to swords, who grasp unarmed monks by the the demands of a sheik is ucemed the more pru- throat preparatory to the decapitation of dent course, since by neglect of it a much them. greater loss in luggage is sometimes suffered. Various miracles are recorded as having been Whether the government could not, by prompt performed by Mar Saba; but these all de. measures, suppress this system of robbery, or pend upon oral tradition. A watch-tower and in what manner we were benefited by the pre- alarm-bell still remain, although it is to be sence of the escort in this respect, are questions hoped they are not likely to be ever used again and points I must leave to those more skilled in for defence of the inoffensive community who the art of governing.
inhabit the unattractive spot. We were The road by which we trarelled was wild and hospitably received within the walls of the conpicturesque, and the further we proceeded from vent, but the repast provided by our dragoman civilized life the more striking became the scenic was none of the most profuse or tempting. effect. Our way seemned to lie along the side of After the usual cup of coffee, a lay-brother apa mountain, as a shelf cut from out its surface; peared bearing a load of bedclothes, and pro, whilst the deep ravine below marked the course ceeded to convert the long ottomans that lined of the brook Kedron to the sea. Wild, varied the walls of the salle à manger into couches: forms of the same scenery were visible now for many of our party were thus accommodated a considerable distance, and the only thing we with' beds, whilst the remainder betook themwere at all certain of was that there was a con- selves to a second and smaller room. vent of Greek monks somewhere ahead of us, Early next morning we were again on foot, at which we were to lodge for the night. A turn and, but for the delay caused by the dragoman of the road brought us at length in sight of the in packing up the luggage, might have been convent of Mar Saba; which is half cut out of ready at once to resume our journey. When the solid rock, and half-built upon it. The once more en route, it became necessary, owing dragoman now directed one of the escort to dis- to the increasing wildness of the road, to keep charge the musket, as a signal to the monks of our party in more compact order of march. our approach ; and well it must have served that we were already aware of the fact that a small party of American travellers had lately lost all, care than to ride pleasantly along. Our escort, their luggage here; and the fear of a similar in order to relieve the tedium of the journey, immisadventure suggested the wisdom of not provised a tournament, and dividing into purriding too far in advance of the two pack-horses. suers and pursued, rode hither and thither across The same high, shelf-like road, and the accom- the plain. The fortune of the mimic fight panying deep ravine, were now present with us changed from time to time, and the pursued for miles : one new feature, however, served to became the pursuers; whilst all seemed equally make the way more monotonous—the constant careless as to the fatigue of their horses, whose winding of the road, by reason of which we lacerated flanks gave proof of the sharpness of could never see far ahead of our position. the stirrup's edge. Bedouin Arabs, on the look-out for plunder, Jericho at length put an end to the furious appeared from time to time on the distant hill riding, and to our journey for that day. A huge tops, but without any more immediate annoy- pitcher of lemonade awaited our arrival, and ance to our comfort than that suggested by the never was nectar more rapturously received. sight of them. The dragoman pointed out one Dinner followed in due course, and as we were locality through which we passed, as being espe- now very tired, we retired early to our sleepingcially noted, from the number of robberies com- tents : scarcely, however, had we done so, ere mitted there, and called in consequence by an a number of Arab women assembled to serenade Arab name, of which the literal translation is us, with a wild, monotonous chant, accom“Bad man's place.”
panied with clapping of hands and changing After a series of windings and turnings we about from one place to another. came at last in sight of the Dead Sea, and, As there was no "second part" to the chant, pushing our horses forward, were soon galloped we dismissed the singers with a gratuity, and over the sandy plain that leads down to its flattered ourselves we might now retire in peace; shores. It is impossible to imagine any sight such, however, was not the case, for the woman more waste, dreary, and deserted than that of had no sooner announced their good fortune the Dead Sea. No tree, no shrub, no blade of than the men of the village assembled in hopes grass was to be seen in the vicinity of our of a similar reward. The war-song, or song of resting-place, as, weary with the hot, dusty ride, welcome, as the case may have been, was in this we fung ourselves upon the still hotter sand. instance voted a bore, and the dragoman was Some of our number bathed in the waters, and hastily despatcbed to banish these disturbers. others deferred that luxury till we should ar- Sleep now came to our aid, and the long day's rive at the Jordan.
journey was-albeit we were tormented by flies After gathering some of the Dead Sea apples, all through the night-forgotten under shade of and tasting of its bitter water, we mounted our his mantle. horses once more, and turned our backs upon Early next morning we were up, and out of the site of the Cities of the Plain—that dreary tent, inspecting the remains of ancient Jericho. waste with which there is not one pleasant me- Of the city's exact position there are no duubts mory associated. A brisk ride of an hour's that I am aware of; and portions of masonduration now brought us within sight of the work are pointed out as its only relics. The Arab thick-wooded banks of the Jordan. Rich vege- village now called Jericho is so called by virtue tation crowns this river on either side, and the of its position only, and does not deserve any cool shade of its trees was a most grateful detailed notice. To return to Jerusalem by the resting-place, and contrasted favourably with short way was now the order of the day; and as the arid shores of the sea we had left. On ar- soon as we were all mounted and ready the riving at the bathing-place we at once cast our order to move was given. horses adrift to graze at will, whilst we prepared Our returning journey offered little or no to bathe in the rapid, muddy waters of the far- incident or variety. Crowds of pilgrims of all famed Jordan, The dragoman, meanwhile, ages, the aged, the infirm, and the young riding whose enthusiasm was not of the highest order, in panniers on the backs of camels and horses, applied himself to the spreading out of such thronged the high road. These pilgrims were edibles as he had brought for our lunch; and to almost all of the Greek church, and principally these we did ample justice after we had bathed Russian subjects, and each batch was accomand dressed.
panied by its priest. The duty next in importance to bathing in With the exception of a picturesque group the Jordan, is to fill such tin-cases and bottles presented by a British tourist-party halting at a as the pilgrims possess with the water : this lat- wayside fountain, there was nothing scenic to ter we duly attended to, and when we had made be met with on our return to Jerusalem. Arthem all safe for travelling we once more mounted riving once more on Mount Zion, we rested at our horses. Jericho was now our destination, our old quarters for the night, and next day reand lay at no great distance a-head of us. Tents, turned to Jaffa, congratulating ourselves on beds, cooking utensils, &c., had all been sent on our successful performance in Palestine. before us to Jericho; so that we had no weightier
matter; God knew. Jesus waited thirty years
in a carpenter's shop before He began His You do not like this Lizzy Gurney? I know. work,-to teach us to wait : hardest lesson of There are a dozen healthy girls in that country- all. Grey understood that well. Not only at town whose histories would have been pleasanter night or morning, but through the day, at the to write and to read. I chose hers purposely. I machine, or singing songs to Pen, she used to chose a bilious, morbid woman to talk to you of, tell her story over and over to this true because American women are bilious and morbid. Friend, as she loved to call Him: He Men all cling desperately to the old book-type would not be tired of hearing it, how happy she of women, delicate, sunny, helpless. I confess was, she knew. She did not often speak of to even a man's hungry partiality for them,- the war to Him, knowing how stupid she was, these roses of humanity, their genus and species near-sighted, apt to be prejudiced, afraid to emphasized by but the faintest differing pungency pray for one side or the other, there was such of temper and common sense, --mere crumpling bitter wrong on both ; she knew it all lay in His of the rose-leaves. But how many of them do hand, though; so she was dumb, only saying, you meet in the street ?
“ He knows." But for herself, out of the need McKinstry (with most men) kept this ideal in of her woman's nature, she used to say, "I can his brain, and bestowed it on every woman in a do more than I do here. Give me room, Lord. street-car possessed of soft eyes, gaiter-boots, Let me be Paul Blecker's wife, for I love him." and a blush. Dr. Blecker (with all women) saw She blushed, when even praying that silently in through that mask, and knew them as they are. her heart. Then she used to sing gayer songs, He knew there was no more prurient sign of the and have a good romp with the children and age of groping and essay in which we live, than Pen in the evenings, being so sure it would all the unrest and diseased brains of its women. come right. How, nobody could see: who could
Lizzy Gurney was but like nine-tenths of the keep this house up, with the ten hungry mouths, unmarried young girls of the Northern States; if she were gone? But she only changed the there was some inactive, dumb power within,- song to an earnest hearty hymn, with the thought she called it genius; there was a consciousness of that. It would come at last: He knew. that with a man's body she would have been Was the problem solved in her? more of a man than her brother ; there was, It being so sure a thing to her that this was stronger than all, the unconquerable craving of one day to be, she began in a shy way to Nature for a husband's and child's love,-she, prepare for it.-after the day's work was done to powerless. So it found yent in this girl, as in the last stitch, taking from the bottom of her the others, in perpetual self-analyzing-in an work-basket certain pieces of muslin that fitted hysteric clinging to one creed after another--in herself, and sewing on them in the quiet of her embracing the cbimera of the Woman's Rights own room. She did not sing when she worked prophets with her brain, and thrusting it aside at these; her cheeks burned, though, and there with her heart : after a while, to lapse all into a was a happy shining in her eyes bright enough marriage, made in heaven or hell, as the case for tears. might be.
Sitting, sewing there, when that July night Dr. Blecker used no delicate euphuism in came, she had no prescience that her trial-day talking of women, which, maybe, was as well. was at hand : for to stoop-shouldered women He knew, that, more than men, though quietly, over machines, as well as to Job, a trial-day does they are facing the problem of their lives, their come, when Satan obtains leave in heaven to unused powers, their sham marriages, and speak work his will on them, straining the fibre they of these things to their own souls with strong, are made of, that God may see what work they plebeian words. So much his Northern education are fit for in the lives to come. This was the opened his eyes to see, but he stopped there ; if way it came to the girl: That morning, when he had been a clear-sighted truth-seeker, he she was stretching out some muslin to bleach would have known that some day the problem in a light summer shower, there was a skirmish would be solved, and by no foul Free Love-ism. down yonder in among some of the low coalBut Paul was enough Southerner by birth to hills along the Shenandoah, and half-a-dozen shrink from all inquiry or disquiet in women. men were brought wounded in to Harper's If there were any problem of life for them, Grey Ferry. There was no hospital' there then ; one Gurney held it solved in her nature; that was of the half-burnt Government offices was used all he careil to know. Did she?
for the purpose ; and as the surgeon at that After the regiment was gone, she went into post, Dr. Blecker, was one of the wounded, the old work,-cooking, sewing, nursing Pen. young Dr. Nott came over from the next camp Very little of her brain or heart was needed for to see to them. His first cases: be had opened that'; the heavy surplus lay dormant. No l an office only for six inonths, out in Portage,