Abbildungen der Seite
PDF
EPUB

The tower, at the west end of the north aisle, is remarkable for its elegance. It was begun by Bishop Lauder in 1469, and finished by Bishop Brown in 1501. There is in it an extraordinary and inexplicable rent, about two inches in width, commencing at the base of the highest window, and extending to the bottom of the building.

We must not omit to mention, that the celebrated Gawin Douglas, whose translation of the Æneid has been considered more poetical and spirited than Dryden's, was the last bishop but three of this diocese.

At the gate of the church-yard, are two large stones, "with shapeless sculpture decked;" one of them in the form of a cross, the figures on the other intended for a representation of the twelve Apostles.

In a number of works, an epitaph is referred to, as appearing upon the tomb-stone of a Margery Scott, in this church-yard. A Margery Scott was actually interred here in 1728, and the epitaph composed for her by the poet Pennycuik, but never inscribed, for obvious prudential reasons. Though, as a poetical composition, it be devoid of merit, we may insert it, as abounding in curious chronological facts :

"Stop, passenger, until my life you read;

The living may get knowledge from the dead;
Five times five years unwelded was my life;
Five times five years I was a virtuous wife;
Ten times five years I wept a widow's woes;
Now tired of human scenes, I here repose.
Betwixt my cradle and my grave were seen
Seven mighty kings of Scotland and a queen;
Full twice five years the commonwealth I saw,
Ten times the subjects rise against the law,

building, bears: "Faill not, bot ze tak guid heyd that neither the dasks, windocks, nor duires, be ony ways hurt or broken-eyther glassin wark iron or wark."

And, which is worse than any civil war,
A king arraign'd before the subjects bar;
Swarms of sectarians, hot with hellish rage,
Cut off his royal head upon the stage.
Twice did I see old Prelacy pulled down,
And twice the cloak did sink beneath the gown.
I saw the Stuart race thrust out; nay, more,
I saw our country sold for English ore;
Our numerous nobles who have famous been,
Sunk to the lowly number of sixteen.
Such desolations in my days have been
I have an end of all perfection seen."

It remains to be noticed, that near to the cathedral are the two largest larches in Britain, and the first ever brought into it. So little understood were the properties of the larch, that these two, when first imported from the Tyrol in 1737, were nurtured in flower-pots placed in a green-house. Finding, however, by transferring them to the lawn, that they resisted the cold of a Scottish winter, numerous plantations were formed of this valuable species; and such has been their success, that even a frigate (the Atholl of 28 guns) was built of larch from the Duke of Atholl's grounds, by way of experiment, to try its qualities as a substitute for oak.

From the bridge towards the north is a magnificent view of the Cathedral, "nestling among its dark woody hills." The town, and plantations beyond, which skirt the river, extending in prospect to the foot of Craig Vinean, "which with all its forests of fir raises a broad (gloomy) mass against the sky. The varied outline of Craig-ybarns, one continuous range of darkly wooded hill, now swelling to the light, and again subsiding in deep shadowy recesses, forms the remainder of this splendid distance." The stile and beauty of the Duke of Atholl's pleasure-grounds (included in this view) around Dunkeld House, and the extent of the rides and walks, are

supposed by many to be of greater length than any other in Britain, and combine every characteristic of the truly picturesque. The late Dr E. Clarke, in noticing these grounds, pronounces them to be almost without a rival, and compares them to the finest parts of Mount Edgecombe, in Cornwall.

Leaving the bridge, the Tourist turns northwards by a handsome new street, and arrives at the lodge and gateway leading to the noble mansion now building by the Duke of Atholl, which, when finished, will be one of the most princely residences in Scotland, and well suited to correspond with the beautiful and romantic walks conducting to all parts of the surrounding territory, computed to extend upwards of sixty miles. Ascending Craig-y-barns a grand view is obtained of the valley westward, which forms a fine vista, terminated by the blue ranges of the central Grampians, of the chain of lakes between Dunkeld and Blairgowrie, of the ridges of mountains stretching in all directions, and of the champaign country as far as Perth.

The Tourist should not neglect to visit the banks of the Braan, not the least interesting portion of the scenery in this neighbourhood. Guides are easily procured, who will conduct the Tourist to Invar, there the Braan, descending from Loch Freuchie near Amulrie, joins the Tay; thence he proceeds along the banks of the stream, by a path through woods, to Ossian's Hall, which purposely conceals from view one of the most charming scenes in nature, that the surprise of the stranger may be heightened by the prospect afterwards obtained from the window. Opposite to the entrance is a picture of an aged bard singing to a group of listening females; beside him are his hunting spear, bow and quiver, and his dog Bran. Upon removing this picture, by sliding it into the wall, the visitor enters an elegant apartment, from the windows of which a sublime scene bursts upon the sight. The

stream, by the approximation of its rocky sides, is compressed within very narrow limits; and taking a sudden turn, it is agitated by a double resistance, and chafes and foams down an inclined descent over enormous rocks, reclining one upon the broken edge of the other. At the bottom it has worn a deep abyss, where its waters are whirled round with extreme velocity. The sides and ceiling of the apartment in which the Tourist stands, are embossed with mirrors, which reflect the waterfall, and represent it, sometimes as running upwards, sometimes horizontally over the head. A bridge has been thrown across the chasm, which also affords a fine view of the fall.

Just above the fall is a rustic seat, thence there is a fine view of the Hall, standing on the summit of a perpendicular cliff, forty feet high. Half a-mile farther up the banks of the Braan, is Ossian's Cave, partly artificial; on the wall of the chief apartment is inscribed the following metrical version of the address of Malvina to the shade of Oscar:

"Oh, see that form which faintly gleams!
"Tis Oscar come to cheer my dreams.
Ah, wreath of mist! it glides away;
Stay, my lovely Oscar, stay!
Awake, my harp, to doleful lays,
And sooth my soul with Oscar's praise.
Wake, Ossian, first of Fingal's line,
And mix thy sighs and tears with mine!
The shell has ceased in Oscar's hall,
Since gloomy Caerbar saw thee fall.
The roe o'er Morven playful bounds,
Nor fears the cry of Oscar's hounds.
Thy four grey stones the hunter spies;
Peace to the hero's ghost, he cries."

About a mile above Ossian's Cave is another waterfall, where the action of the stream has perforated the rock so as to form almost an entire bridge, which art has

completed. The stream rushes from beneath this bridge, between the two rocks that support it, precipitating itself near fifty feet, it is a sublime object, but deficient in accompaniments; this fall is called the Rumbling Brig.

The walk may be circularly continued from Ossian's Hall, along the face of Craig Vinean, until the Tourist regains Invar, by a path along the banks of the Tay. Seats are erected at short distances, upon spots affording the most enchanting prospects; the view from the summit of Craig Vinean is very grand, surpassing all the others in the neighbourhood. The grounds immediately under the eye appear broken and rugged; the woods on the left lose much of their density; but the forest scenery still stretches out to an interminable distance, and ascends the dark sides of the distant mountains. The traveller may here form some idea of the great extent to which the late Duke of Atholl carried the system of planting; from these immense woods, great quantities of larches have been cut down and successfully used in ship-building.

From Craig Vinean, the Tourist may ascend the neighbouring romantic eminence called the King's Seat. His way lies along a narrow forest path, among high and abrupt rocks. A path still more romantic branches from it, and leads up through the King's Pass, to the summit of the King's Seat. This was a favourite station of William the Lion, when enjoying the pleasures of the chace, from which he discharged his shafts at the deer as they were driven past him in crowds. At this place Queen Mary, when enjoying the same pastime, narrowly escaped destruction from an infuriated stag, which directed its rage against the beautiful queen. The event has been detailed at great length by Barclay in his Monarchichronicon. The view from the King's Seat is very extensive, but less picturesque than others in its vicinity.*

* A delightful excursion may be made in the course of a day,

« ZurückWeiter »